casey145

<p>Hi There,<br>

I have not seen KATA (3in1-33 or 3in1-30n)bags mentioned.<br>

i think they are aimed at the lowpro slingshot series (I think).<br>

Advantage with it being you can use it with quick access (slide around your body / shoulder) on the right or left hand side as well as configuring it as a back pac. It is not necessarily the best padded bag, however I do not think it was built for rockclimbing on the other hand....<br>

Have found it a bit more plyable than the lowepro (which was my first bag with 5d & 30d + lenses & flash). It only lasted 13 months. KaTA is now over 2.5 yrs old and very well travelled. still a pleasure to use.<br>

Like the multiconfig & multi access posbilities you have as you I do different terrain and shoot requirements. Verstile bag indeed.</p>

<p>Hi Mus,<br>

I think the way you should look at this question is;<br>

updating to 1.1.1 will give you the following benifits.<br>

Click the link.<br>

<a href="http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eos5d/eos5d_firmware-e.html">http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eos5d/eos5d_firmware-e.html</a><br>

is adding these features a benifit that you will use?</p>

<p>If no don't do it.<br>

If you are going to update the firmware (flash the the bios) of the camera follow each instruction to the letter.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Kieran.</p>

<p>Hi Megan,<br>

Here try this link.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-kaiser-k1501-slave-unit-trigger/p1006117">http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-kaiser-k1501-slave-unit-trigger/p1006117</a></p>

<p>You can get away with just using one of these. Then have the other flash mounted on the camera or fired by cable from the camera. Moving on you could get another one of these hotshoes with a cable to attach an extension lead to give you manoverability on your shoot.<br>

Or use your built in flash (depending on your camera) to fire 2 external guns that each have one of these slaves.<br>

Good Luck with your shooting.</p>

<p>K.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>:o))</p>

 

<p>Hello Mark.</p>

<p>I dont know the 602's (had a look on line) but suspect one reason for the exposure failure is that the trigger and receiver are set on different channels.<br />Normally these units have a few channels you can select. This allows for a number of setups for different togs/shots being done in close proximity of a number of flash units being used in different sets/studios<br />I would start from the point to verify that your camera and flash fire (mount flash on camera).<br />Then check the channels on the units to make they are the same then test fire but looking at the flash from an angle (dont look full on into it ...doh.... :o)) ) You dont say if you are metering? You may be way off on aprerture and it can look as if the flash is not firing (dont meant to teach your granny how to suck eggs.)<br />With your trigger did you get the cable attachment to wire the camera directly into the unit that holds the flash?<br />If so I wold test this to make sure the unit is not faulty!<br />Do you have the option to fire the flash from a button on the trigger to check the signal is being passed to the receiver.<br />The batteries in the trigger and receiver are OK/tested? You may need jewellers screwdirver to open the unit. One of my remote triggers does not have a cover and when packed in the bag it appears the button was being pressed. Which drained the battery in the transmitter. The receiver was fine. Changing the battery resored it all to life again for me.<br />If all the above fails RTFM... :o))<br />If that fails I would go for a replacement.</p>

<p>Good Luck.<br />Be interested to see how you sort it.</p>

<p>K.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>ooopppsss they are not your photos... sorry to the originators of your favourite images..... must remember to have aonther coffee before doing posts so early in the morning... :o0))</p>

<p>Here is an idea to play with a couple of flash units. And I would suggest a couple of smallish reflectors as well (10*12 or a bit bigger). Home made version. take a piece of card and cover it with tin foil on one side taping it down on the back side. Hey presto.. :o))<br>

If you are using a small area, I think you need to watch out for the relationship of the size of the object in the frame and the backgroung because of using a couple of units in close proximity. You could just go high key! I have played with shooting tulips with using 1,2, & 3 flash units. Lights approx 3-6 feet from subject, also controlling the power outupt of the flash units. to give me the exposure control I want. And using the reflectors as well, to even out some light shadows created. If you the ability in being able to keep the backdrop anywhere between 3-7 feet from subject. You will have more creative control in seperating out your subject from the background by using some back lighting.<br>

From looking at your photos, you have a very nice eye.<br>

Would like to see what you come up with.<br>

Good luck, have FUN... :o)</p>

<p>K.</p>

<p>Hi Steven,</p>

<p>Yes you can fire the vivitar (or any flash unit) by using an optical slave. Small little cube with a little bulbous lens on one side (with flash sensor behind this). A hot shoe on the top to mount your flash on. And depending on the particular model it can have a tripod mount on the bottom as well as/or a flash shoe. I use mine on flash stands at times (outdoors/indoors) to give me placement control of the light source in the image (also using the flash lens control function of the flash to create a specific light beam in to an image). Hope to get hold of 2 more 580 EXII. I will be able to control the output of each of the 580's from the camera. Have found the trigger range of the 7D & b580 to be Excellent. I am not sure on the angle of catchment of the lens on the optical slave, but suspect to be 25-40 degrees about. I have 3 and they work a treat. Just using a 7D with the built in flash and the internal trigger to fire a 580EXII and then a sunpac 36 off a slave which the 580 fires. I have added in the other slaves with other flash units as well at times. All work a treat. I think the slaves I have are a by a German company by the name of Kiser, I think... :o).<br>

I really like this set up for it's portability and versatility. It is giving me a broader lighting range of lighting effects in playing with fillin out doors & indoors.</p>

<p>Take a look at this link, did a mastercalss on this subject with him at the SWPP in London in Jan. EXCELLENT.<br>

<a href="http://www.lovegroveconsulting.com/">http://www.lovegroveconsulting.com/</a><br>

don't know if I am allowed post the above link but it's done now.. :oO!!!<br>

Good Luck and have FUN...</p>

<p>K.</p>

 

<p>Hi Nigel,<br>

I believe to be able to offer viable input to the basic question (I think) 5D v's 7D.<br>

I woluld have to ask the question. What do you want to shoot with it. Personally they are some what different tools. They are basically light capturing tools. However excel in different areas for me.<br>

Working on landscapes and panaromas I think the 5D is out on its own with the full frame (as just one exmple or preference). Love it. Personally I like its low light abilities. But for sport I find it cant quite keep up with Rallye and Motorcross for me. I find it slow when out shooting wildlife at times <br>

Have used 30D and found the frame rate was better. But the buffer is not very large. And it's a smaller file size. (I read about the 40D two weeks after buying the 30D and was a bit miffed I missed that)<br>

Have waited for a good while for enough new features that matter to me, to be introduced.<br>

I stared looking at the 7D.<br>

Looking at the large number of new features and improvements. And personally a very major plus is the 8 frames persecond for the motor sport. Looking forward to doing plenty more nature shoots in the coming months.<br>

I can't wait to put it throughly through it paces.<br>

Love the flash ability with partly controlling and firing the 580EXII.<br>

But would not be with out a 5D(xxx)......<br>

Using a range of L and non L glass ranging from 12mm - 400mm.<br>

My two cents worth.<br>

Hope its of benifit to you.</p>

<p>HiFrank,<br>

The fault that you are seeing is can be caused by what is commonly called mother board creak. Where the machine has been used for a long period of time with out being serviced. The parts in in the machine heat up and cool down time and time and time and time again. You can loose connection with one or more of the connections on cards inserted in machines. This is enought to cause the effect you are seeing (Personal Experience)<br>

The cure, as mentioned by Keith is correct, however I have an added word of caution. When removing the graphics card be carefull of gripping the output socket on the card. One of the other weak ponts on the card is the connection between that plug and the graphics card printed circut board . The solder heats up and cools down on that connection too. I have found these brittle also. Get hold of the metal brace and the back end of the card. What is a usefull tip, is to use an old tooth brush to clean the coppor/brass contacts on the graphics card when you have it out. Making sure all the time to only touch the edges of the card. No contact with any components. It has been known that the acid on your skin can mess up components when heated up. ... sorry I digress... ;o)<br>

I would change cables before doing any of the above. Again taking care connecting the cable to the graphics card. (That plug/socket connection again).<br>

Another consideration! When was the last time you hoovered the inside of your machine?<br>

Using one of the brush attachments and gentely taking away all the fluff stuck in vents and stuck on fans. Also the fan and vents on the transformer.<br>

As it is an intermittent problem, it can be caused by components overheating at times. Ambient temp of the room can effect the efficency of the cooling in the machine.<br>

Having written the above and realised it's a mac. You probally have not the option to get into the machine, depending which one you have. The above process works for anyone using PC's. And rather than just delete it. It might beusefull to someone. At your own risk.<br>

The hoovering of the vents in the unit if it is a sealed one may cure it also depending on the age of the unit. It may prevent something overheating. Seeing that you say it is an intermittent one. Other that that I would have it serviced. That dependent on its age, new unit may the upgrade needed... :o)))<br>

You have not mentioned hardware details!</p>

<p>Good luck.<br>

K.</p>

 

<p>Hi Ana,<br>

Most Studio flash units/strobes have build in slave units. Which means any flash unit will trigger the flash units/strobes to fire.<br>

Yes your 580EXII will fire these for you (or "any" flash that has a slave cell). What you need to take into consideration is that if you have your 580 mounted on your camera. You may need to reduce the power output so that it does not interfere with the lighting set up you are using, depending on the output of the strobes. And the distance of the light to subject (i.e. you are just using your 580 as a trigger to fire the flash units/strobes). OR balance the output from the 580, so it compliments the setup you are using. You can use a camera mounted flash unit (580) bounced off the ceiling just to fire the flash units/strobes. Using your 580 saves on trailing wires. Its the poor mans trigger in a manner of speaking, but it is functional.</p>

<p>Good luck and enjoy the learning curve.</p>

<p>Hi Tom,<br>

CS4 has the ability to line up the images first before you overlay them. That is if you are using cs4!<br>

Have not come across such a remote yet.</p>

<p>You need to go to tha Adobe site and look for the plug in for CS2.<br>

Here is the article on what you need to do.<br>

<a href="http://kb.adobe.com/selfservice/viewContent.do?externalId=kb402112">http://kb.adobe.com/selfservice/viewContent.do?externalId=kb402112</a><br>

do a search for, cs2 raw plugin download<br>

Try this link to get at the download.<br>

<a href="http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=39&platform=Windows">http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=39&platform=Windows</a><br>

Taking a quick look at the last link it does not seem quied right as the article talks about 4.1 version of the plug in . Have used that one in the past for canon and it worked cleanly. I believe that that version is also used to open Nikon raw files. Did upgrade a friends version of Elements 6 to handle Nikon RAW with 4.4.3 version of the plug in. It did also state that that version works with CS2.<br>

It's not easy to find the right plugin on the adobe site I know, I had to hunt quiet a bit.<br>

Let me know if you have problems.I still have a copy of the plugin. Can email it to you. 4.4.1 is about the 3 1/2 mb. Should go through email OK.<br>

Good Luck.</p>

<p>Oh , <strong>Happy Christmas.. :o))</strong></p>

 

Go for the Quality Glass. 70-200 f4/L. you'll change bodies a few times before you swap this one out.

 

 

It will pay dividents in the long run.

Hello Brian,

 

I would expect that you would be OK with putting the lenses in your hold luggage. Provided they are wrapped in the clothes you are taking with you and that they are kept away from the edges of the case/bag. But make sure your insurance covers you, just in case. From past experience doing trans atlantic flights lenses in the luggage works fine.

 

I wold not put a camera in hold luggage. If you must hang it around your neck. Check in never bother you for doing that. Might make you look like a typical tourist. But hey you wanna take photos...!

Effort in result out..!! :o)

 

I would recommend the 24-70 its a "L" lens, I would ignore the weight over quality any day of the week. Put the monopod in your case. If you are working here, you may get a chance to shoot early evening. I think it will pay off for you. Depending on how enthuastic you are about shooting.

 

Do some research on Norfolk and on Cambridge(University town). They are interesting towns to visit and walk around.

London is a train ride (about 1.40 hr mins). Which will bring you into Kings Cross station. Then get the tube to Green Park(Victoria line) and have a walk around(Buckingham Palace is near there). Get a copy of the London A to Z. will help you to get around. It's worth it.

If you have a car at the weekend you could drive around outside Peterborough.

If this is the first time to the UK .

You will find Loads of quaint British villages/towns in the area. Check out maps and places that interest you on Google maps.

 

Good Luck and enjoy it.

Hello Jeff,

You should be able to source an eyecup which has the facility to insert the diopter correction (om fitting). Hunt around in camera shops in their clearnce bins. There is a ring in the centre of the eye cup which you can unscrew and drop in the correction. Sourcing that correction glass may be difficult these days. But you might have luck in checking with you optictian.

I find the OM version of the correction are quiet rare, but prefer the eyecup verion of the correction a better option.

 

Is a -1 the correct correction for your eye?

If you are saying -1, this indicates that you are short sighted. So you wear glasses for seeing distant objects clearly?

What does your prescription from your otician say?

 

 

Good luck in your search.

I think you have the enviable position of not being responsible for anything but have an opportunity to be an absolute STAR.

Your friend chose to hire someone that does this as a profession however chose you specifically to do the kind of shotsw that they know you can do and love you so much for which is why you were specfically asked to do the job.

HAVE A BLAST.

and learn from it.

 

You have a very capable machine in your hands, what do you see through that lens is up to you.Photograph it. That is what yor Friend wants YOU to do.

 

Again HAVE A BLAST. :o)

I am experiencing similar issues with it. The organizer is begining to crash some what consistently. Takes a little bit of time may be 10-20 minutes when I an scrolling through. If I select some shot and then view largest thumbnail in the orgainzer that's it DEAD. Have allowed about 500mb to E 6. Did'nt see anything much on the Adobe site either.

Editor (used regurarly ) never has issues!

 

I have 50k + photos in the organizer

Correction on previous post.

Should have been Epson R1800 not 2800.

 

 

I would consider Epson R1800 or R2400 I. I like Epson Photo Gloss paper above about 240gsm.

HP pretty much the same spec.

Epson UltraChrome inks looks very interesting. Also the choice of trying the larger ink systems that you can hook

up to the 2400 I think. For about the �150-200 mark in the UK.

 

I dont think that system is available with the chrome ink though.

 

Not sure how this would hold up to the volume you might be going though.

 

Are you out in the field or indoors when printing?

 

Printer Info at http://www.epson.co.uk/printers/ultrachrome_professional_printers.htm?Section=home

I would consider Epson R2800 or R2400 I. I like Epson Photo Gloss paper above about 240gsm.

HP pretty much the same spec.

Epson UltraChrome inks looks very interesting. Also the choice of trying the larger ink systems that you can hook

up to the 2400 I think. For about the �150-200 mark in the UK.

 

I dont think that system is available with the chrome ink though.

 

Not sure how this would hold up to the volume you might be going though.

 

Are you out in the field or indoors when printing?

 

Printer Info at http://www.epson.co.uk/printers/ultrachrome_professional_printers.htm?Section=home

Hello Katherine,

 

ASA=AmericanStandardAssociation. It was a an attempt to standardise the sensetivit rating of of film world wide. Around the same (I think) time the Germans came up with DIN their equivlent. So a rating of 100ASA was equal to DIN 21. Over time this sensetivity rating system has now morphed to ISO.