ltruex

J.S, I'm not shooting nor plan to shoot in 8x10. All this lens choose is 4x5 Cambo camera. Larry

Thanks to all of you for the many response and suggestions, but I need to take a break from this for now. I'll be back in touch at a later time, and hopefully with a clear and better perspective on this problem (large format is sure harder to deal with lenses, because there are too many choices). Best regards Larry

First let me thank all of you for your suggestions, and I'm going to take a break from this for a few days to clear my mind. I will not likely use a macro lens in my final decision, and why I didn't list macro lens in my consideration...They are designed for flat edge to edge reproduction, and only twice in my previous work did I ever shoot 2d work. I shoot 35mm and use a 100mm Macro lens extensively including 3d subjects, but the lens designs are decidedly not the same, and so I have abandon all general reference and comparison to 35mm. That don't mean to suggest I don't appreciate both of you for making the suggestion, but this is my personal opinion only. Best regards Larry

Thanks again Ron.

Ron, on one of the lens sites they offer bargain lens (having some additional wear) that supposedly don't affect the shooting have you tried such lens and are they worth taking a chance on the purchase? Larry

I have always been taught...you get what you pay for; and though you may save

money on the cheap it will cost you in waisted time, poor quality, or just plain

having to buy it over and being stuck with what you spent your money on the

first time. Those words through the years have been my guiding light obviously I

cannot own something beyond my reach of financial limits, and if it requires

maintainability that must be considered. I feel compelled to seek a lens of

shorter focal length (I cannot get out into the world due to emphysema) so most

of my work is indoor studio environment and mostly craft items (dolls or

such)but I like to work with lens effects often found in wider lens angles used

at closer range than most would consider. At issue is avoiding the center filter

lens, and as much image circle I can find, yet in a focal length that is closer

to a normal lens. I seem to be drawn to 120 through 135. The 135 is a design

that generally don't offer much lens movement as I understand it. Am I reaching

for something that don't exist and cannot get close too? Best regards to all. Larry

One last question...In the Rodenstock lens selections of 135mm I see Sironar-N, APO Sironar-N, and APO Sironar-S. From what I have previously read the S version would be a newer lens...again from your experience do I consider the S version in my first lens choice for I don't know and as Mr. Pryszlak, has most accurately stated I have no photographic experience in large format, but I do know the camera or its lens does not make the photographer, and why I ask for advice that I will take most seriously.

I'm sorry about my misspelling of Mr. Ron Bose. Larry

Mr.Solomon,Briggs, Pryszlak, and Mr.Boss I'm overwhelmed and I yield to experienced warnings; and I'm doing what I've not done before...change a commitment when settled upon my choice. I must now re-read the material and suggestions and rethink this whole problem over. Thank to all of you for your heartfelt cautions..I thank you all. Larry

Bob, I posted a lens to subject selection 2007 07 26 and is still a standing thread. The 110 is shorter than I had in mind, but would offer me versatility to other applications in the future. As Dr. Briggs pointed out in the thread I may loose the feet by my angle of coverage with a selected length of 130ish so I opted for a higher angle found in the 110. I haven't tried used lens rental for here in the part of Texas where I live no one rent lenses, but that don't mean there not available. I will be using the 110 first to see where my lens choices fall with actual hands on use of the selected lens. I feel that overall the SSXL offers for me the use of a lens with good wideangle characteristics yet in a focal length that is longer, and a lens speed that is reasonably fast with very good resolution in the most functional f-stop ranges with ample image coverage for a dynamic range of application for a first prime lens purchase.

Dr. Briggs the Super Angulon was my second choice. I favored the 110 over the SA lens because of faster lens speed without sacrificing resolution, and favors an f16 as a sweet spot where others seem to favor f22. All this favors my poor eyesight, But I do like the specs and information on the SA lens and it may be the lens I wind up with if all else fails. Thank you for the suggestion best regards Larry

I just received the response from Tony Leung and their store does not have a Schneider SSXL110 Lens. So the e-mail address is good. Larry

Ronald, I have checked locally (U.S), but have not found it in the price range I really need as listed. I understand the best choice would be the Hong Kong source...perhaps the e-mail address I have is not the best "Tony Leung" newsanky@hkstar.com.

Thanks for your response Best regards Larry

After days of pondering, and searching the Internet to gather all the

information I could find...I choose a lens not based on price, but on my needs

for characteristics unique to my lens choice. Considerations were lens focal

length for perspective, lens angle for extended coverage and wider angle effects

on the subject perspective plus applications beyond a single subject use. I

choose the Schneider Super Symmar XL 110 first [rec. by Dr. Briggs]. This choice

is financially stressful though I have tried without luck to reach Mr. Tony

Leung in Hong Kong China as I understand from this site a lens could be had for

a fair market price.

Does anyone know of a low-cost source for this lens? But I must make every

effort to keep the cost at or lower than $1400 as it comes from Student loans

and leaves very little to afford schooling with that much gone. For those who

would not agree with this choice I would like to know what is any complaints

against this lens. Best to all Larry

Thanks for all those responses and clarification of what this was...I didn't know and why I asked. Best to all. Larry

Oh I forgot to ask...lpm is that lines per meter, or what does the m stand for. Larry

Mike, is this information involving the lpm found in the View Camera Technique book? What other source, or tutorial may be found on this topic. And thanks for going into some explanation about it, but it's clear to me I need to study it before I will understand it.

Thanks again Larry

Mike, is there a range of lines per inch. Like poor would be say 1-20, and fair would be perhaps 21- 40, while good could be 41-70 etc...

Larry

I think its important enough to do this right. Here is the improved image. Larry<div></div>

I can put this through Photoshop if it's important to see what I have. Larry

Here is a screen shot of the sheet. Larry

I have found a data sheet that looks important (very) but I don't understand

what I'm looking at, or how it would help me evaluate a lens. The sheet I found

has topics listed on the top: Manufacture, Model, Focal length,

[fstop/cnt/mdl/edge], Weight, Shutter, Serial number. What I understand is all

but the numbers of the fstop/cnt/mdl/edge. What do they mean, how would they

help me evaluate the lens, is there a pattern I'm looking for in the lens

design. I asked this question because some of the specs were the same number

across an f stop while others of the same group but another f stop where not the

same and may be higher or lower in values. Thanks for any help provided. Larry

Truex

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and input. Best regards Larry

Sandeep, it took a little time, but I believe this thread could help pin down the problem, and it comes strait from the book "Veiw Camera Technique" by Dr. Leslie Strobel. When your camera has been set up and focused at your best expectations, and all adjustments locked down you can determine if the camera is stable by placing a finger on the top of the camera back and pressing while you observe the ground glass with a loop to see if it goes out of focus. Best regards Larry

Sandeep, you sound like a person of skill and understand camera operation have you checked the focus with a loop? are the subjects that are out of focus on one side in low light condition? Finally and most important how long have you had this camera, and did you receive it as new?

Best regards Larry