squiggs77

<p>Ross... so are you saying that you are lowering the value of a D90 because of an optional feature (video) that you don't ever have to use if you don't want to? It doesn't make sense in my mind to not want a camera due to a feature that it has that I don't have to use.</p>

<p>You could also consider the Sigma 50-150mm f2.8. It's a perfect portrait lens (In my opinion) for a DX camera.</p>

<p>I second the suggestion to get the 17-50mm Tamron. I have the older screw drive one, and it focuses very fast and accuratly even in low light. It's also very sharp at f/2.8. I've read that the new internal focus motor version of the lens doesn't focus very well though.</p>

My Sigma 50-150 gets kinda soft wide open at the long end, but with the Tokina you don't event get the 136-150

range, so even though it's a bit soft, I would much rather have that extra reach than not having it. Otherwise I

have no complaints with that lens... Oh, I should mention that I had to send it under warranty in for focus

issues with my D80, but from my experience Sigma has really good customer service so it was no big deal.

When shooting groups make sure that the camera focuses on the closest person to the camera. If the people at the edges of the group are closer than the ones in the center, make the camera focus on them. Also, use a higher/smaller f-stop to have a greater depth in focus. F/2.8 is ok for one or two people, but for groups make sure you use a minimum of F/4... F/8 would be better, but isn't always possible due to lighting. It's also possible that the lens you are using gets softer at the edges, or has a curved focus plane, and therefore it's making the people closer to the edges look out of focus.

Press up or down when viewing an image.

I second the 'Bring a sandwich' comment. I would suggest something a little more 'snacky' such as trail mix or granola bars. Even if there is a reception, and you can eat at it, most likely if you try to grab a bite you'll miss some of the best shots of the night.

What size is this Boat? Will there be room for a lighting setup? If not what you have + a flash bracket & backups maybe all that is required. If there is room for a lighting setup then I would get at least another SB-800 + light stand + sliver umbrella and trigger it with the on-camera SB-800. The SB-800 on the stand would be the main light and your on camera would be fill light at an -1EV lower. This will produce much more flattering lighting that straight on flash.

 

With the D300 and an SB-800 you could even consider remotely triggering the SB-800 with the D300's built in flash, but then you won't get fill from the camera. If space is really tight you can hold the SB-800 in your left hand... but I must warn you that this technique requires stamina and lots of practice to get a high amount of keepers.

I would also consider the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8. It's the lens that I use most for my kids. I love the f2.8 on it, but if you don't need that fast of a lens something with a longer zoom range may be of use, such as the new 18-105mm VR.

Nikon does not make a 50mm prime that will auto focus on your D60. There are rumors that they will release one soon at Photokina.

 

Sigma does make a 50mm f1.4 that WILL auto focus on your D60.

Peter, you could also consider the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 lens. It's optically very similar to the Nikon, but without the silent focusing and the tank like build. I own one and love it.

I've had two EX lenses that had focus issues from Sigma. I've sent both in, and they both focus perfectly now. Despite these issues I still hold their EX lenses in high regard, and the 30mm f1.4 is one of my favorite lenses.

I think the D90, like the D80 has a shutter delay option. In the D80 it's .4 seconds, I think I read on the D90 it's 1 second. The camera moves the mirror, then waits for a moment, then take the photo, thereby eliminating any mirror movement. I personally think it's better than MLU, because you can just shoot normally.

I somewhat agree with Gerald Taylor. I've gone to a few events where I've gotten so wrapped up in my photography that I missed out on much enjoyment with the kids. However, having said that, I would still bring the 80-200mm and the TC, but I would also bring a Point & Shoot for more casual fun shots of the family. I would then try throughout the day to not get too involved in my shooting and try to focus on creating memories with the family.

 

I'm actually going to the Minnesota Zoo tomorrow with my family. I'm bringing my D80 and 70-300mm VR along with an ultra compact digital point & shoot.

 

Zoos will be around long after the kids leave home...

Spot uses the selected focus area.<br/>

Matrix still uses the whole image, but with greater weight on the selected focus area.<br/>

Center-weighted doesn't care what focus area you use. It's always center weighted.

When you say 'start at 28mm' do you mean 28mm equivalent for the DX format of your D200, which would be approximatly18mm? Or do you mean 28mm on the lens?

It comes down to your perception of what a 'Professional' is. Is it the definition from a dictionary? Or is it the common use of the word?

 

To me a 'Professional' is someone who regularly makes a money doing whatever it is that they do. I only make money on occasion with my photography, and I don't consider myself a professional photographer. But I consider someone who relies on photography for income on a regular basis a professional, weather or not it is their main income. I don't feel special training is required, but I do feel that a certain level of quality is, weather it comes from training or experience.

You can shoot the sigma hand held indoors in low light, due to the fact that at 10mm you can get by with 1/10th of a second shutter speed. That said, there have been a few times that I would have appreciated the f2.8 of the Tokina, but overall I'm happy with my Sigma 10-20mm and I'm glad I have the extra on the wide and long end of the lens over the Tokina.

You eyes will adjust to the white point of the monitor. Just like how in florescent light our eyes adjust so that for the most part things look correct rather than green. So your eyes will trick you into thinking that you're looking at correct colors when really you're not.

 

That being said, some monitors do come from the factory with fairly good colors, but you don't really know until your calibrate it.

I agree with Joe. ANY dedicated camera shop should know exactly which Nikon lenses work with a D40/D60. Being a camera shop it is their job to know that. If they don't know there is probably a lot more that they don't know and just pretend to know.

 

BTW, Any AF-S lens will autofocus on a D40. So will any Sigma HSM lens. Where is gets a little more tricky is with Tamron, Tonkina, and Sigma's lenses designated 'For Nikon'. Those lenses have the same name as older non internal focus motor lenses, but they've updated them for use with a D40/D60 camera.

Another way to fix is to use Adobe Lightroom. I have a D80 with hot pixels when the sensor heats up. Lightroom automatically gets rid of them. I don't have to do anything.

 

-Justin

Melinda

 

You said that you were on a tight budget. If that's the case I would look into a Nikon 6T or Cannon 500D closeup filter. I've used a Nikon 6T on my 18-70mm lens with good results. I don't think Nikon sells them anymore, so the 500D is probably the one to get. Plus with the 500D you can get one in 67mm too. If you can't find the right size for your lens, you can always get a step-up or step-down adapter.

I've used the 70-200mm VR and have the 70-300mm VR. And my 70-300mm VR at 300m is as sharp as the 70-200mm VR is at 200mm. But... I would never use the 70-300mm for weddings. I have a Sigma 50-150mm for those, but I would love to have VR on that lens... a monopod just isn't as easy to carry around.

 

So my point is:

If image quality is your concern, you could try a 70-300mm VR and have a much lighter smaller lens with just as good image quality as the 70-200mm VR, but you don't have the fast aperture for low light stuff. You could then get a Sigma 50-150mm f2.8 in addition to the 70-300mm VR for $$$ less than the 70-200mm VR alone. However, if you plan on getting serious about wedding photography, you'll really wish you had the 70-200mm VR.

Please tell us what you mean by 'Macro Look', and how your photos don't have it. Then we can help you get that look.

Try renting one... you'll soon figure out if it's something you'll carry around or leave at home.