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patrick_stack

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Posts posted by patrick_stack

  1. <p>Scott -</p>

    <p>For several years I've been using Ross Yerkes, in Los Angeles. Repaired/restored Rollei TLR's, Autocord, Leica, etc. Fast returns, first rate work, fair prices, highly recommended.</p>

    <p><a href="mailto:rossyerkescamera@yahoo.com">rossyerkescamera@yahoo.com</a><br>

    (256) 323 1018</p>

  2. <p>Another vote for just using it as is. In my experience, only a really substantial and deep scrape would affect the image. In isolated circumstances of the light entering the lens at just the perfect angle, some flare could be present. Easily prevented by the India ink solution, and a lens shade or even a hand or sheet of paper held up protecting the lens from direct light would assure no problems.</p>

    <p>I've seen a Nikon lens at a repair shop that fell off the top of a moving car, rolling down the pavement for some distance<strong>. HORRIBLE </strong>gouges resulted, at many different points over the lens surface. The tech then showed me a couple of prints made from that lens, nothing apparent. The image is out of focus at that point of the lens, no worries.</p>

    <p>Best of luck with the Vb.</p>

  3. <p>Gene M.</p>

    <p>You're quite a guy, a very good man indeed. I think you should be recognized and rewarded for your outstanding good deeds, (even though I'm certain you don't make a big deal of your many contributions.)</p>

    <p>I'm an old guy, even with LOT'S of downsizing I have more camera gear than I need. From my sister in laws Dad, (the original owner,) I received a Retina IIa with Xenon 50mm lens. It had not been used in about 35 years, needed a good service which I had done a couple of years ago. Now it works perfectly, taking sharp images if I did my part well.</p>

    <p>He bought it at the PX while in the Navy, he thinks 1952 or 53. It's quite clean, good appearance, has the case and manual, glass in perfect condition. A bit fiddly to load, as most were back then, but a fine performer and I believe you'd enjoy it.</p>

    <p>I'd like to make a gift of it to you, in appreciation for all of the great posts you send, with the enjoyable photos and stories that are contained in them. If you'll send me an address where you could receive it, I'll box it carefully and get it on the way to you. I hope you won't say no, it would be a nice continuation of use for the camera to move on to, and then maybe in time you would find another person that could appreciate using it.</p>

    <p>I hate it when we don't see anything Gene M. for some time, seeing a new post from you is always good to look into. You really did the lady who sent you "Mom's film" a huge favor, just from the goodness of your heart. Good for you, well done.</p>

    <p>Best regards.</p>

    <p>Patrick </p>

  4. <p>Kayam -</p>

    <p>Welcome to MF, and the Autocord is indeed quite capable of producing excellent images. You handled it very well, the shots are super. I've owned nine Rollei's over the years, with pretty much all of the lens choices available I think, from the Planars, Xenotars, Xenars and Tessars. Never owned an Autocord, but used a friends a few times in a trade, I think it had either a Rokkonon or Rokkor taking lens, (hope I spelled them correctly.) For the most part I felt the Autocord was essentially the equal to the Rollei's, very sharp and clear, especially contrasty.</p>

    <p>Your shot of the Stock Exchange demonstrates that very clearly I'd say, the details of the figures are positively dimensional to my eyes, and on my monitor. The ONLY less than favorable thing I've heard about Autocords is an advance lever part being a bit weak, a pot metal piece sometimes prone to fail. I've also heard that it's a relatively easy fix in the hands of a qualified technician, then it's good for the long haul.</p>

    <p>If I wasn't this far along in age I'd like to have a good Autocord user, but I've downsized the collection and will do without. Thanks for posting the fine examples, I wish you the best in your efforts while getting familiar with your camera.</p>

    <p>Patrick </p>

  5. <p>Gene -</p>

    <p>Gotta agree, we've seen the enemy and it's us. Throw away society, mostly pure crud is produced today, not easy to find quality, value and craftsmanship. It's there, but you have to search a bit. I like the Jeep commercial, "No one inherits their fathers digital watch."</p>

    <p>Nearly all of my auto everything stuff has failed, often quite early. My D-70 still works, but I'm holding my breath. Most of my modern stuff seems to last 2-5 years, the D-70 is at 7 years. </p>

    <p>My Retina IIa still works very well, Rollei TLR's, OM1, etc, continue to serve reliably with very pleasing results. Those cameras are all from the 50's and 60's. I suspect film will be around long enough to meet our needs, (I'll be 70 in Feb.)</p>

    <p>If enough interest remains in film photography, the makers will continue to produce it. Spark the interests of those coming along today and they might see there is room for both film and digital, it's simply individual preference. Both have their strong points, I just give the nod to the roll, not the card.</p>

    <p>I think what you do inspires considerable interest in film and classic cameras, along with many of the other 'Netters. Good for you. I always enjoy the posts from you, thanks, keep 'm coming.</p>

    <p>Patrick </p>

  6. <p>Rick -</p>

    <p>Interesting read, the photo's say a lot about photographic style back then. Elegance abounds in shots you posted. </p>

    <p>Minor point, but the Spitfire I think is a rather rare version. Notice the shorter wingspan with squared off wingtips, as opposed to the graceful, elitical, pointed tips so common to the type. Don't know what's up with that, but would guess it had something to do with agility.</p>

    <p>Loved seeing your find, thanks for sharing.</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  7. <p>Rick -</p>

    <p>Whattaguy, keeping them working seems to be one of your serious talents. My collection is meager compared with yours, but I do enjoy preserving the ones I have, and occasionally salvaging one that's been neglected or damaged. Amazing it is, the great abilities some of the service professionals have.</p>

    <p>The shots are great, my faves were "end of the line" and the family waiting at the station. I miss train travel here in the States, it has become quite unreliable, (in my area,) rarely on time, and as expensive as air travel. Still, I try it occasionally, pretty much doesn't change.</p>

    <p>Thanks for all the great posts and photos, very nice to see what you're up to next. You live in a very beautiful part of the world, good of you to give us so many nice looks at your homeland. Best regards.</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  8. <p>Michael -</p>

    <p>You made a wise choice, by having the camera professionally serviced at the start of it's life with you. Harry is among the very best. The Vb is a durable and reliable camera, capable of producing excellent images. The Xenar lens is one of my very favorites, now if you find a lens hood and a few filters for B&W, (I mostly use the red or orange,) you'll be set for loads of enjoyment.</p>

    <p>With careful handling and storage it should hold up for many more years. They do like frequent exercise, even if you don't run film through it at least regularly fire the shutter on several different speeds. The only operational problems I've encountered with Rollei TLR's is the self timer, after a few years they might start to drag a bit, then it's off to Harry for a thorough service.</p>

    <p>Enjoy having your Vb at the ready, hope to see some of your results soon. Best Regards. </p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  9. <p>Rick -</p>

    <p>Chapel 1-2 and windbreak really attest to the image quality these terrific optics produced, brilliant job. A friend, (hobbiest,) is hooked on his 120 Kowa with a few lenses, I'm totally impressed with the work he turns out, rivals about all of the best.</p>

    <p>He echoes your sentiments, wonderful system, but when they do get pranged they do it with style. Thanks for the great post and photos.</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  10. <p>Andy Kollins -</p>

    <p>Glad to see the Conika lens went to a good home and is being used, it looks much happier mounted on a kamera than in my collection closet for these past many years. Very nice shots all, I'm happy you are enjoying it. </p>

    <p>Keep 'em coming, always fun to see what your doing and your ever growing list of acquisitions. Remember, collecting is not a treatable condition, you have to quit it cold turkey on your own, but then, why would anyone want to?</p>

    <p>Best regards</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  11. <p>I know this doesn't state an opinion toward either direction, both sets of thoughts I consider appropriate. Preservation is my tendency, but then I'm not at all handy or visionary enough, to take on the challenge of making an object work on something other than the original application. I can fully appreciate the interest on the part of another to do so, if, in their attempt to pull it off, the modification works as they intended.</p>

    <p>A well restored old car, airplane, cycle or boat that looks original from outside, yet is updated with modern power plants, fuel injection, better handling components etc might turn some off. I favor making it more efficient, reliable, safer and such, and would do that. I guess it's just all about preference and what works for the folkses what does it.</p>

    <p>P.S. </p>

    <p> </p>

  12. <p>Rick -</p>

    <p>Very nice score. I have zero experience with Tokina brand, but a friend does and gets really good results. I'm wondering if Tokina manufactures lenses for some of the major brands, some of the design features appear nearly identical, just perhaps a different grid design on the focus/zoom grips, etc. I think based on what I've seen, that the brand has truly a high quality reputation. Good on 'ya, thanks for the post, (read it over afternoon Earl Grey, I'm old, can't do coffee any longer.)</p>

    <p>Patrick </p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>Andy -</p>

    <p>It's too late to save you from the advanced degree of collecting illness you have fallen to, but think of the others you are leading astray. No doubt you will be the cause of many guys living with PO'd wives, (been there,) can you live with that guilt?</p>

    <p>Passing Storm says it all, you can sense just how towering and powerful that buildup really is. Looks like you have a winner in the F3HP, let's see some from the F and F2 now, please. Have you seen any results from the old Hexanon 135? Hope it performs well for you.</p>

    <p>Thanks for another great post, I almost don't need a camera anymore, all I have to do is crank up Pnet and take a tour of all the things you, Rick, Gene M and all the other guys are up to. Thanks a bunch.</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  14. <p>Gabor -</p>

    <p>Just a great way to start my day, seeing these excellent shots from the "Old Standard." All of them are fine exposures, inside the burger joint is a great composition. I love to see an old classic find it's way into the hands of someone that will care for it, and use it proficiently.</p>

    <p>Among my meager Rollei collection is a Rolleicord II, with Jena lens, circa late thirties. A gift from the original owner, capability far exceeding my expectations at the first time I used it. Uncoated lens of course, but after a thorough service by a Rollei specialist it produces razor sharp and contrasty images. I had not thought it would perform that well, but life can afford pleasant surprises.</p>

    <p>Thanks so much for the shots and text, great job all around.</p>

    <p>Patrick</p>

  15. <p>Chris -<br>

    <em> </em><br>

    For all my older classics I use, (by brand,) Meltonian Shoe Cream, in the color of the leather. Initially I just use a clean cloth, lightly moistened with water, staying away from the edges so water won't get under the cover, that pretty well cleans and preps the leather or vinyl.</p>

    <p>With Q-tips I apply small amounts of the cream, working in circular patterns until surface is covered. Waiting just a few minutes for the cream to completely absorb and dry, then with another clean cloth I buff until an even, semi gloss sheen remains. Any residue remaining in seams or edges I clean up with more Q-tips, or a soft texture toothbrush. That's worked well for me for decades, I believe the cream keeps the leather moistend and nourished to avoid drying/cracking.</p>

    <p>I do also agree with S.P. about the wax sealing the leather, although the brand of treatment I have been using seems to do the same thing. I would use wax, but I'm not sure it would penetrate and preserve the cover as well as cream, it seems to just absorb immediately where wax seems to dry and most wipes off with the buffing.</p>

    <p>I think saddle soap might require some water for application, care should be used to avoid excess moisture from getting in or around places, where you really don't want anything to be wicked up and deposited.</p>

    <p>Good luck with the project. </p>

    <p> </p>

  16. <p>I'm a bit curious about the "plastic advance lever." It wouldn't be difficult to imagine after extended time that plastic would become brittle, and then would not require much impact force or stress to break it. I had an OM-2 and two OM-1n's, at some point during cleaning of the OM-2 I noticed what looked like an open crack in the advance lever, at the juncture of where the outer portion met the circular area over the shaft.</p>

    <p>A closer look showed that it was not a crack, just a minor void where the mold was not completely filled with the molten plastic. I can't be totally sure, but I thought maybe it was a plastic covering molded <strong>over </strong>a metal lever. Over the years I've owned several cameras with what appeared to be plastic levers, never had one fail or even crack the least amount. It wouldn't seem characteristic of the quality brands to produce likely weak points, such as cheese-oid plastic bits that had to stand up to repeated stress forces.</p>

    <p>A thick solid metal lever would be a bit heavier <strong>and </strong>more costly to make, perhaps under the plastic there resides a thin but sturdy steel inner portion. My M-6TTL has an advance lever that is solid metal, the outer portion has a plastic cover that makes advancing more comfortable, by increasing the surface area where your finger tip would contact the lever. </p>

    <p>Anyway, nice camera pic's all, thanks for sharing. Now, get out and use'm.</p>

    <p>Patrick </p>

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