baris_john

<p>Paul, what you describe sounds like a real pain. Why go through all the hassle of different adapters and focus limits when you can simply buy a modern lens that straight fits, has improved optical performance and supports all the "sophisticated" technology of the Nineties (autofocus, electronic aperture, program modes).</p>

<p>Doesnt make sense to me. FD is cool when you use film and FD cameras. Otherwise, I´ll let the old gear rest in peace.</p>

<p>This is a great lens. Especially "bokeh" is sweet. Try it for portraiture.</p>

<p>The ASPHERICALs are usually selling for a premium. Build quality was better in the breech lock era if you ask me.</p>

<p>Not again...<br>

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=canon+fd+on+eos</p>

<p>There is a difference in aperture geometry between the AE and MM versions of the 85/1.4 Planar T*. The MM is rounded whereas the AE shows the typical "sawblade" at f2.</p>

<p>I think this is true for other models in the Contax line as well.</p>

<p>These come up only once in a while. Only two more days to go.<br /> ebay.de item: 220490601656<br /> <br /> Also, check this out:<br /> http://www.luciolepri.it/lc2/marcocavina/articoli_fotografici/Canon_200_1,8L_con_FD-EOS_converter/00_pag.htm<br /> <br /> I am not going to bid as I dont own anything in FD above 200mm. But good luck if you do!</p>

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<p>I don't know that anyone has actually proven the 58mm f1.2FL is a a Thorium glass lens and not just as the Canon lit. says a lens with an Amber coating.</p>

 

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<p>Here you go:<br>

http://www.lummukka.com/canonfl58mm.html</p>

<p>I cant help with the button but wonder if the typical FD user has to have one mint copy of his favorite FD camera and several "beaters" to take pictures with...</p>

<p>The T90 never tempted me but it sure seems a nice camera from specs.</p>

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<p>It's a shame the description of the forum does not actually tell users that m4/3rds questions are not appropriate.</p>

 

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<p>Well, it says "This is a dedicated film forum, Please keep your comments to film based photography". I´m not sure why that is though. There will be more and more mirrorless cameras from different brands in the future and the FD forum <em>could </em> be a central place to discuss all things FD related.</p>

 

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<p>has given me 30 camera</p>

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<p>All different systems or a lot of Canon in there? What about lenses?</p>

<p>Unless your main interest in posting here is to sell the F1, it´s a classic 35mm film camera to keep and take pictures with. Of course, your copy may need a CLA to run smoothly again.</p>

<p>Read more about the camera and system here:<br /> http://www.shutterbug.com/equipmentreviews/classic_historical/0407canon/</p>

<p>Thanks. Now right after I bought the Motor Drive I won a winder on feebay too. I´ll report back on both once I have them here.</p>

<p>I am considering a motor drive or winder for the original F1. What are the options and whats your recommendation?<br>

 </p>

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<p>I tried Nippon and the said it was too old and they no longer touch the F1 from 71. They then gave me a number to Photo Tech and they too don't handle the F1 anymore.</p>

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<p>Really? What kind of reason is "too old"? I never had problems having my <strong>mechanical</strong> Canons or Leicas repaired.</p>

<p>For Nikkor lenses why not just get a FE / FM type body.</p>

<p>As to Canons, I prefer the older mechanical ones (old F1, FT, FTb). Theres hardly anything that can fail in these.</p>

<ol>

<li>I'd like to get the A1 and the F1 in top shape, with the internal meters working reliably, if possible. Does anyone have any suggestions on what may be wrong, and more importantly, who I could trust to repair the meters? Someonein the bay area, or even better, near Sacramento, would be great.</li>

<li>Is it possible to have the F1 modified to use modern batteries?</li>

<li>For the FTb, I suspect I'd be better off replacing it with another used (but working) body. The prices on eBay seem lower than the cost of repair. What do you think?</li>

<li>Can the Seikonic be reconditioned / calibrated?</li>

</ol>

<p>1. Google?<br>

2. Yes<br>

3. Better have it repaired with warranty<br>

4. I dont know but I´d simply get a new external meter if I needed one.</p>

 

<p>According to the Canon Camera Museum there were at least three versions of the FD 200/2.8.<br>

Type 1 : 5 elements in 5 groups, breech lock mount / SSC<br>

Type 2 : 5 elements in 5 groups, new FD<br>

Type 3 : 7 elements in 6 groups, new FD</p>

<p>Is there a consensus on which performs best of the three, especially at 2.8?</p>

<p>Try to manually stop down the lens and see what happens.</p>

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<p>Seriously, chances of Canon doing a MFT system camera are so small than even that just-repaired Hubble thing wouldn't be able to see 'em.</p>

 

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<p>No ones expecting Canon to bring out a dedicated mft body, but for sure a small and compact<strong> mirrorless </strong> EF / EF-S compatible camera. Samsung is on the fence already with the NX system: A mirrorless APS-C sensor design. Sony has already confirmed that they are working on it.</p>

<p>Who needs a reflex mirror in, say, 10 years from now?</p>

<p>I was looking for user reports on this lens but did not find much. Does anyone have first hand experience with the lens? Is it generally considered a good performer (or a <em>better</em> performer than the 28/2.8 SSC)?</p>

<p>I have used the later 28/2.0 new FD briefly and liked it, but I am looking for the breech lock version now.</p>

<p>To answer my own question: I have feedback from a Leica technician at Solms that "corrosion" will get worse when you store the camera for longer in a place without air circulation (in bags, original box, etc.). With regular use the reaction stops.<br>

This matches the user experience reported here http://nemeng.com/leica/042b.shtml<br>

<em>"Well, a few weeks ago I took the Leica M6 out of its bag to check the lenses. As I said I hardly use it these days. To my horror, it had exploded like chicken pox. Bubbles all over the top plate. And also one part had corroded into a hole about 1.5mm in diameter. Apart from the one bubble I saw some time ago, this camera body was close to mint. I am devastated."</em><br>

<br /> Unless you are collector and not going to use your camera, no big deal I think.<em><br /> </em></p>

<p>I had the 50/1.5 C-Sonnar shortly. Quite soft wide open (and deliberatly so). Bokeh was a mixed bag. If you want <strong>sharp </strong> in a 50mm lens and can live with f2 look no further and get a Summicron.</p>

<p>Its a mystery to me why anyone would want to buy a Zeiss / Cosina 50/2 when there is the legendary Leica 50/2 Summicron-M available. Leicas standard lens for about fifty years and paired with an M body the heart of the whole system.<br>

"Price" doesn´t count. Lots of Summicrons available on the used market in excellent condition. And they hold their resale value perfectly.</p>

<p>I was offered a Leitz ("Wetzlar") M6 built in 1985 that shows some very mild zinc corrosion on the top plate.<br>

The camera is now more than 20 years old. Should I expect the corrosion problem to get worse over time or will it now stay the way it is?</p>

 

<p>Go and buy lots of Velvia.</p>

<p>Simply buy a wide angle to complement your 50/1.8 and you´re set.</p>