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buffdr_rasouliyan

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Posts posted by buffdr_rasouliyan

  1. <p>Hi, thanks for all the comments. I shot this at late in the evening and the lighting was not the best. I used the chair that was left out from the party and the red under the groom is actually the color of the chair. I'm not sure if that red works, but at the time it seemed like a bright color to throw off the green. I shot this at ISO 800 with an F4 for aperture and a 320 shutter speed. There is about 5 other poses I did during the same sitting. To include the Bride putting her leg up on the chair. I also took the chair out and made the groom sit on his heels while the bride stood behind him with her hand on his shoulder. I'm not sure I can post the other variations here? Can I?<br>

    Also the sharpness is not the best but totally acceptable by me and the B&G. Hind site, I could have shot it at 6.3 to gain a little more sharpness but that would have varied the DOF a little. The hand crossing apparently didn't say what I hoped it would. She was posed to say "I'm all that" and he was like "so what" I'm all that too.<br>

    At the end it was an awesome wedding. Thanks for all the kindness.<br>

    v/r Buffdr</p>

  2. <p>I'll answer your question. Full frame period! I had both bodies for about a year. Yes the 7D is a great camera because of the bells and whistles. But when the IQ is the most important factor to you (it is to me) my 5D mark IIs are better. For me the ISO noise of a 7D is not very appealing. So about a month ago I sold my 7D and all my EF-s lens. My last EF-s lens was 17-55 2.8 IS sold last week. v/r Buffdr</p>
  3. <p>Another way is improve your lighting is to sell your D200 and get a D700. Although I'm not a Nikon shooter, I know the D200 ISO performance is not great. With the D700 you can take advantage of the better ISO. Just think you can now shoot at ISO 3200 without the noise. So the speed-lights you have would be great to light up (flash fill) the reception. Depending on the location I too shoot with some studio lights with PW. I simply point my lights to ceiling with umbrella and bounce my lights or point straight out on a 6 to 9 foot stand. I then walk around the hall and take light readings with my PW light meter. I also shoot with my 580 on my camera and PW on top of the 580 (Velcro). The 580 is normally set to 1/16 power and the rest of the lights will light up the background. You must understand there is no ETTL involved so you will have to adjust camera settings as you go. v/r Buffdr</p>
  4. <p>What is up with the price going up? Before I logged in here, I went to B&H to buy another 5D Mark II and the price is higher than a month ago. Is it because of the disaster in Japan? Time to look elsewhere. v/r Buffdr</p>
  5. <p>I have one and love mine. I don't mind the push pull zoom and after shooting with it for a day or two, I was very comfortable with it. Your other alternative is to buy the 400 5.6L prime. I have used it as well but not enough to comment on it. I do know it does not have the IS function. How about this; before you go spending 2k on a lens, rent it for 3 days? At the end I went with the zoom and I'm glad I did. Mine is very sharp as long as your not trying to shoot something a half a mile away and then expect it to be tack sharp. The picture I took was from an airshow last year. I had the 100-400 attached to my then 7D (sold the 7D already) The insert cutout is from the front plane where the back seater was taken a pic of me! Final answer, get the lens! v/r Buffdr</p><div>00YUNC-343987584.jpg.6ed83dd2f9c692730814cb34864af767.jpg</div>
  6. <p>Rivas, I have owned just about every crop camera since the original digital rebel. My last one was a 7D and from about 4 years ago, my lens of choice was 17-55 2.8 IS on all of my crop bodies. It's a constant 2.8 with IS as well. If you want a prime lens, 35 1.4 is a great lens. v/r Buffdr</p>
  7. <p>I have lots of lens', most of them are "L" lens'. After extensive use of just about every lens Canon makes (I rent a lot too), here's what I kept. 35 1.4, 24-105, 70-200 2.8 IS, 100 L 2.8 Macro and the 100-400 L. Only reason I kept the 100-400 is for my aviation shots. Just sold 50 1.4, 85 1.8, 24 1.4L, efs 10-22, 100 Non L macro 24-70 2.8L and 135 2L. I still have one more EF-s lens I'm selling 17-55 2.8 IS. v/r Buffdr</p>
  8. <p>If that is your business strategy, stick with it. 2 years ago I changed mine and for me, I would rather get my money upfront and make just a little from print sales. I found out that people would rather pay me 2K to shoot the event than to buy 2K worth of prints! It's hard from them to justify 15.00 for a 4X6, they just don't understand. It also makes you frustrated when they don't buy prints. You begin to think they didn't like your work. All of my clients also think that my print prices are very reasonable. BTW, I looked at your site and the few galleries I looked at were not locked. So any body to include your clients can simply save the files and print them at walmart. You can also sell the digital files on your site. Good luck/ Buffdr</p>
  9. <p>Another option; you can also rent a zoom when you shoot this wedding. To use both of those camera would drive me crazy since they are so different. It would take too long to adjust, shoot and then adjust another camera that your not used to. Final answer, rent a good zoom. v/r Buffdr</p>
  10. <p>If you get a 5D, it might be your primary camera and use your 7D as backup! I know the 5D is old but it still has cleaner files than the best crop body IMO. Better yet, rent one for a weekend with a 70-200 2.8 and shoot away to see for yourself. V/R Buffdr </p>
  11. <p>It all depends on your shooting style. For me, it is a MUST I have my 70-200 2.8IS on my 5D mark II. I also shoot with 2 bodies, the other being a 7D with the 17-55 2.8 on it. But I find most of my shots are with the 70-200 2.8IS. I will totally agree that with a crop body a 70-200 is a waste but for a full frame, I think it's the best. I'd say 70% of my shots are from my full frame. I will even shoot some of my formals with the 70-200 2.8IS. IMO the 70-200 2.8IS is the BEST zoom lens I have used. I also shoot with lots of prime lens' but as far as the zoom goes, nothing comes close to it. I think the 70-200 2.8IS should be your second lens purchased. First would be a nice mid zoom like 24-105 or 24-70, second would be a 70-200 2.8IS and third would be few primes. The full frame files are so much cleaner that I will more than likely sell my 7D and my EF-s lens to go with my 3rd full frame. I only use my 7D when I don't want to pack a flash on a hike, vacation or an airshow. I also know bodies come and go, but you shouldn't shoot with something sub par if you don't have too. Get the 5D mark II and rent the 70-200 2.8IS and let us know what you think. v/r Buffdr</p>
  12. <p>The 70-200 series is by far the best zoom lens I have ever used. I have the 2.8 IS version and it stays on my full frame ALL the time. I will admit Its to long for my taste on a crop body. I mostly use either 17-55 2.8 IS or the 35 1.4L on my 7D. Before I sold my 135L, it was the sharpest lens I have ever used. Tough decision but at the end, the flexibility of a zoom wins. v/r Buffdr</p>
  13. <p>What I have found out that during the game the camera gets fooled and it always wants to overexpose. So if YOU allow the camera to pick the settings, you will miss lots of shots. First, rent a 70-200 2.8 IS (IS not a huge factor in your case). It will be hard to get a fast moving player to come out sharp, so you have to take advantage of the slow parts of the game. When they line up, huddle etc...those are money shots. Keep an eye on your son and when he stops, you click the shutter. Good luck v/r Buffdr </p>
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