morgan_malaska

<p>I love my Klasse W, I hope you'll be satisfied with your original Klasse! </p>

<p>Hmm, thanks for responses all! Not getting much wiser though... The Voigtlander Color Skopar 28/3.5 looks great, but there is something about the 3.5 speed that is holding me back... Just sounds so slow. Hm, will have to mull this over a bit further. Might just have to get both the Canon and the ULTRON 1,9 and decide which one to keep. </p>

<p><img src="http://www.morganmalaska.se//dump/3s.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Rolleiflex SL66 with 80mm f/2.8 Planar HFT @ f/4 on Kodak Portra 400 VC</p>

<p>I love my SL66, it is somewhat battered and bruised, but man, those lenses produce results! Alas, I don't use mine enough to warrant keeping such an expensive camera in my inventory so I've put it in various classifieds... But I am <em>almost </em>happy that noone has showed any interest.<br>

<br /> <img src="http://www.morganmalaska.se//dump/3s.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Rolleiflex SL66 with 80mm f/2,8 Planar-HFT lens @ f/4 on Kodak Portra 400 VC</p>

<p><img src="http://www.morganmalaska.se//dump/2ss.jpg" alt="" />´<br>

Rolleiflex SL66 with 80mm f/2.8 Planar HFT @ f/4 on Kodak Portra 400 VC</p>

<p>Hello Canon fans,<br /><br />I am in the market for a decent, but affordable 28 to put on my M4-P and I've been giving careful thought to the Canon 28mm F2.8, mostly because of it's compact form factor. The Canon lens is primarily competing with Voigtländers' range of 28's, the one I am keenest on being the Voigtländer ULTRON offering. <br /><br />There are ofcourse several factors that distinguish the lenses from one another, the Canon is a compact, light lens, whereas the Voigtländer looks heavy and bulky. But what it all boils down to in my eyes is image quality and character, and the question wether I will get results that are worth $600 dollars from the Voigtländer.<br>

Please, post experiences, advive and photographs of and with both lenses.</p>

<p>Wow, Craig, amazing shots! I think the deal has been sealed for me, I am getting myself a Klasse W for christmas. Thank you everyone for your replies!</p>

<p>Last year at around this time I bought a Ricoh GRD III and since then I've used it almost every single day. I love the handling and the sweet 2.8 lens. But since I've recently began renting a darkroom with a few other photographers I think it is time I buy myself a "go anywhere camera" that is film-fed.<br>

So, I borrowed a Contax T2 from a friend and after just a few days I've grown to love it. It is reasonably quiet for use in street work (especially since I seem to work most in noisy environments) and for some reason people don't seem to notice it (or recognize it as a camera) all too well. So those are huge points in it's favour. However, the long lens and the fact that setting the camera to f/2.8 activates Program mode has put me off a purchase. So I've narrowed down my alternatives for a wider angle compact film camera to just one. The small yet expensive Japanese camera, the Fuji Klasse W. </p>

<p>The Klasse W looks to tick all the boxes, but there are a few questions that remain, questions that I hope you folks can help me answer:</p>

<p>How noisy is it, quieter or louder than the T2? </p>

<p>How does the build feel, on par with the T2? </p>

<p>How do the optics perform?</p>

<p>And perhaps most importantly: How does the finder look, what information does it display?</p>

<p>Iv'e also looked at the GR range of cameras, but I am a bit apprehensive about purchasing an old compact at that price. The Fuji Klasse W gives me some reassurance in the fact that it is new from factory.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am not sure about well known but I've seen a Swedish press photographer armed with<strong> two</strong> M9s. I suppose the only run of the mill reportage photographers it makes sense for are those who already own Leica M lenses and have had previous experience with Leica cameras. </p>

<p>Thank you Gus - The speed indicator shows the correct speeds, the only thing that seems to be off about the camera is that the meter indicator changes size when I move from infinity to close focus, it is impossible to get a reading when I reach the very closest end of the focus scale on a lens. But I have only tried this with lenses the camera was not designed for (35 millimeter Summicron and 21mm Cosina Voightlander with LTM adapter). Any ideas about that or if I should be worried? </p>

<p>Other than that issue, the rangefinder seems to be accurate, I did a small test today with the camera on a tripod and a tape measure - Nothing scientific at all, but it does seem to be aligned proplerly. </p>

<p>I think it was a great decision - This photographic, cultural and historical treasure deserves nothing less than to be kept in a museum where the public can access it and gain their own inspiration and knowledge from it. </p>

<p>Just got the camera today - It is in very nice shape with some minor scuffs and a very minute dent just near the Leitz Wetzlar marking on the top plate. Unfortunately the film take-up was the plastic one that I have read some warnings about, but that too appears to be in very nice shape. Another very positive surprise was that the camera had been converted to use 1,5volt batteries, the meter is also completely accurate when tested compared to my GRD III in spot metering mode... I do find it somewhat awkward to used an in-camera meter after my year with the M4-P and the Sekonic I use with that, but it's nice to have the feature even if I won't use it. The camera also came with a leather case, a strap and an instruction booklet, nice touches. </p>

<p>Overall, I am very impressed with the weight and feel of the camera - I had expected something similar in weight and feel to the Olympus 35RC that I owned in the past, but this is a different beast entirely. Also pleasantly surprised by the finder, in a positive way - Though I must say it is a bit cluttered with all the frames visible at the same time. Now I have to get out to shoot my second roll with it before it gets too dark!</p>

<p>Thanks for your answers. </p>

<p>I will be purchasing an adapter to use standard hearing aid batteries of the type ZA675 in the Leica CL from PaulBG (<a href="http://www.paulbg.com/px625uk.html">http://www.paulbg.com/px625uk.html</a>). According to a testimonial on that site the CL exhibits a 1/3 stop underexposure with that adapter, something I believe I can live with considering the low prices of the hearing aid batteries compared to the more expensive, but custom tailored wein cell batteries.</p>

<p>Will get back to you with information on how the adapter works when I get a chance to use it! </p>

<p>Thank you for your answers David, I will only be using the camera with my CV 21mm and it's accessory shoe viewfinder (and possibly a 40 or a 50 in the future) - I am purchasing the CL mostly in order to avoid having to change the lens on my M4-P which I prefer using together with my 35mm Summicron.</p>

<p>I have had the battery problem with another camera I owned, an Olympus 35RC. Back then I solved it by using my external meter... But for the CL, I think I will spring for an adapter from Cris Camera ($32), and use Wein Cells until the adapter arrives - The Wein cells seem relatively inexpensive ($7 for six cells), the issue that you point out however that they don't last very long together with the fact that replacing a battery also involves exposing any film that might still be in the camera might prove an issue in the long run. Out of curiosity, do you remember how long a single Wein cell typically lasts? I googled them and got figures ranging from one month to three months. This compared to the three years(!) of use that was reported using mercury type batteries. </p>

<p>Hello, I have just engaged a camera shop in my native Stockholm to reserve a Leica CL which they have in stock after being enthused by the relatively good price (by Swedish standards) of about 290 dollars. The camera is reportedly in good user condition and with a functioning meter. My question is, will a CV Voightlander 21mm lens with a LTM to M adapter cause any issues on this camera? Also, for the CL owners out there, do you have any tips, tricks or things I should know about the camera? Would you agree with me that the solution of having a Leica CL for my superwide (as opposed to the Leica IIIrd I previously considered) is a good idea?</p>

<p>Thank you beforehand for your answers,<br>

Kind Regards, Morgan A. Malaska</p>

<p>I just binned an old lens case that was leaking stale foam, for my next lens case I will go with something new - Nikon has a nice, hard type lens case that might fit the bill for your 90mm unless you are a stickler for Leitz containers;<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37240-REG/Nikon_4471_CL_38_Hard_Lens_Case.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37240-REG/Nikon_4471_CL_38_Hard_Lens_Case.html</a></p>

<p>This Yogakarta sultan had fine taste in cameras! </p>

<p>I used the Olympus 35 RC before getting my M4-P, a great camera - The only issue might be the batteries, but there is always the zinc/air type batteries and the wein cells. </p>

<p>If you are a student look in to the resources of your university and or photography clubs associated with it - For instance I found that Oxford University Photography Society offers dark room use for free together with their membership (£30 for a year, £15 for a single term) and that includes <strong>free</strong> chemicals. The Cambridge University Photography society was a bit harder to get information on, but I imagine that too has a similar set up.</p>

<p>I was in the same seat as you a year back - My decision was between a D700 and some iteration of a Leica M... My (irriational) urge for a Leica won out, and here I am a year later and couldn't be happier with the decision to go analogue. I too was a student at the time (and will be again come autumn) and the decision what to do with my saved money was a hard one. And no one can make the right decision but you.<br>

My advise, gear aside, and gear doesn't <strong>really</strong> matter in the end is that you continue to shoot for a while with your setup unchanged. Try to use your FED exclusively for a month or so and then do the same with the 400D - With the FED, my advise is to carry it with you as often as you can, every day - That really is one of the hugest pluses with RF kit... It is portable where a 5DMK2 (or similar) isn't. <br>

Once again, good luck with your decision - Take your time, and stay cool, that urge to make a change is not always right. Having the patience to slug it out and sticking with what you have is often times very rewarding, at least when it comes to photography gear. </p>

<p>Sorry David, I just read my reply and it came off as a bit short - All apologies! I agree with you on the M2's and M3's very much, they can be found in user or "beater" condition for quite reasonable prices - Often they require changing of the vulcanite covering however, a relatively inexpensive renovation effort that can be done at home. I see "beater" M2's for around 2-300 pounds here in Sweden at times.</p>

<p>Overall though, LTM lenses and cameras will give you the most bang for your sterling - I would look for a Leica IIIf red dial or similar - That will leave you some room for a pair of good used CV lenses and indeed a scanner... Bear in mind, you don't need to buy all this at once, I photographed with my M4-P for three months before I purchased my scanner and started developing the films I had went through. </p>

<p>As for scanners, used is the ONLY way to go - Scour photography communities, post ads, look on less traditional places to sell photography equipment... Seek, and you shall find what you need. Ebay prices are often needlessly hyped up, that said, you might find a great deal on there as well. </p>

<p>Really, to me... If you are going to rely on others doing the processing for you you might aswell stay with digital - Developing your own B&W is painfully simple and it is indeed a huge part of what makes shooting film such a fun endeavour. If you lack a space to do it in (kitchen sink does just fine with some precautions) then seek out your local photography club - That will give you both relatively cheap darkroom access (in Sweden the going rate for membership with darkroom access is something like 30£ a year) and a font of information from the members that were around when there was no choice between film and digital.</p>

<p>Oh yes, how did the M8 ever come up in a thread for buying a rangefinder kit under a thousand pounds? </p>

 

<p>I got my Nikon Coolscan IV ED for something like 100£, quite honestly it does everything I need it to do and more (I need it to do B&W, but it did very well with archiving my fathers old library of Kodachrome as well) - The only downside is that the Nikon Coolscan Software does not seem to work on 64bit systems, an interim solution for me has been Vuescan, but I just can't get used to it. Hoping to make the transition to OS-X soon, I hear the Nikon software works even under Snow Leopard.</p>

<p>My switch from D200 to a Leica M4-P and a 35mm Summicron cost me about 1200£ - If you are aiming for Bessas and a Voigtlander lens you might well land UNDER 1000 quid with some patience.<br>

Good luck with your transition, if you are anything like me it will be the best thing that has ever happened to your photography - With a rangefinder, street photography is another beast entirely for me, it's become a lot more about interacting with the scenes or the people I am photographing rather than simply creating a photograph... And that, in the end, makes for better photographs.</p>

<p>Thank you for sharing Bill! It gives comfort to learn that other people have dropped their cameras and lenses... And even sat on them! Truly, for some reason dropping my 35mm Summicron is the most embaressing thing I have ever done - Even though the damage is purely cosmetical it still feels like I have done a bad job at superintending the heritage and quality of my lens... And most of all, I feel dumb as a post for not taking more care in using my ridiculously expensive lens! </p>

<p>You should do very well with ISO 800 film and a 28/2,8 Karl - If it were me going to the auto show I wouldn't bring any other lenses, even if you <strong>might </strong>have use of a longer lens I dare say that being light on your feet will make your experience a more pleasurable one. I also find that when I bring a second lens along I end up changing lenses a whole lot, and that is in my mind a practice that detracts from the good fun of photographing. </p>

<p>Just returning with a photo of the damage sustained to my 35 'cron after I dropped it atleast one meter (from where the camera was hanging around my neck) onto the concrete flooring of the Stockholm subway. I haven't noticed any imperfections in my images that might be related to this, after about a year or so of use since one of the most horrific and embaressing accidents of my life.</p>

<p><a href="http://img38.imageshack.us/i/12314o.jpg/" target="_blank"><img src="http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/897/12314o.th.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></p>