ihmemies

<p>I don't know if it has been asked, but does the scanner have fixed focus or can the focus be adjusted?</p>

<p>I've stored various scans of random quality here: http://hakkarainen.kuvat.fi/temp2/<br>

Mostly scanned with Nikon Coolscan V / LS-50.</p>

<p>I recently saw an auction of 6x6 RZ67 back in ebay, closing bid was 230 euro. I think that's a silly price considering how cheap RZ gear is these days. I recommend buying a separate 6x6 camera or cropping the 6x7 shot. Getting two more shots on a roll is not worth the price unless you shoot a lot of film.</p>

<p>Here's a few JPEG samples taken with D3X:<br>

http://www.optyczne.pl/?news=1607<br>

Page of the manufacturer:<br>

http://www.syopt.co.kr/eng/product/manual_zoom_85PortraitLens.asp<br>

Some MTF data, bokeh info etc (in Korean):<br>

http://www.slrclub.com/bbs/vx2.php?id=slr_review&no=87<br>

Here's a few shots from the lens itself:<br>

http://www.ch20.co.kr/shop/shopdetail.html?brandcode=001004000017&search=&sort=order2</p>

<p>I've been through various sites, and came into this conclusion: If you need a very affordable 85/1.4 and do not shoot scenes with very bright spots (like sun), this is a great deal. The coatings used don't seem to be nearly as good as other manufacturers, so the lens flares accordingly.</p>

I normally don't use the DOF preview button that much, and forgot to use it even once with those G lenses ... :-) I got my hands on another G type lens and tried what happens. When for example f5.6 is selected, it stops down to minimum aperture - finder gets very dark indeed.

 

No wonder why all the photos were black. After trying to figure out what causes it, I found that reason was CF22:

 

Custom function 22 - Aperture setting via Sub-Command Dial: Enabled 0 // DIsabled 1

 

When the setting is disabled, I can adjust the aperture from aperture ring. Seems it also affects G type lenses and the body assumes they are stopped down to minimum aperture too. So if I want to shoot with apertureringless (heh) lenses I need to keep that setting enabled.

Also for example in Lightroom you can remove PF/halos to some extent with defringe setting.

I normally shoot with 50mm and 85mm AF-D type lenses, but one day I had the chance to try out 24-85 3.5-4.5 AF-

S G and 105 2.8 VR AF-S G lenses.

 

Normally I adjust aperture via the aperture ring in lens, but with gelded lenses that is not possible anymore. I used

the sub-command dial to adjust aperture, and everything seemed to work well. With the 105 macro lens aperture

even adjusted automatically smaller as I focused to macro distances.

 

But when looking at the slides, all frames from both lenses were pitch black. It looks like the body stopped down to

whatever the minimum aperture is instead of the aperture I selected.

 

Any ideas what would cause that with G type lenses? Is it just some custom function which is wrong, is the body

broken or are G type lenses not compatible with F5?

50-150/2.8 has no tripod collar, and I think it's a big minus in a 2.8 tele zoom, or in any expensive tele lens for that matter...

 

If you shoot only handheld, then there's no problem :-)

17-55's price/performance ratio is very poor. If you want a 2.8 standard zoom for DX, I'd recommend either Sigma 18-50/2.8 or Tamron 17-50/2.8. Of course if you have money, why not...

 

Its focal length corresponds 26-85mm in 35mm format, so it's relatively a bit wider and longer than 28-70mm.

 

28mm equivalent is not really very wide, so the 17-55 is probably the better choice from those two, supposing you aren't buying fx or film anytime soon.

MB-D200 and MB-D80 both feel pretty cheap and flimsy when you screw them to your camera the first time.

 

After applying some black electrical tape the fit becomes more tight, and the grip stops rattling and flexing. Of course that doesn't mean it will be sturdy on a tripod too, but it's a lot better anyways.

 

You can also put some tape to the batteries, so they don't rattle inside the compartment.

Nikon has a reputation to allow precise increments only in auto modes. For example, I can adjust ISO in my D80 in 1/3 stops, when auto iso fine tunes it in 1/6 stops.

 

Also with my SB-600 flash I can only select 1/64 as minium power. In auto mode it will shoot at least as low as 1/512 - 1/1024 power if neccessary.

http://tinyurl.com/22xe6r

 

Hopefully the link works. 1.1 firmware is in Nikon Europe's page too.

Another, altough very expensive option, would probably be buying a D300. Preliminary information says that Nikon has improved battery life a lot, you could get perhaps double the exposure time than with D200. It's presumably because of the new sensor. Of course that needs to be proven first :-)

I'm just curious, but has anyone ever heard a Nikon getting borked because of too high trigger voltage?

The 70-300 vr is also soft and dark at 300mm. VR helps, if your subjects don't move. 70-300 vr is light, compact and small compared to 80-200 f2.8. I wouldn't like to haul the 80-200 around, if I didn't need all the glass to shoot moving subjects.

Usually AF lenses have very poor manual focus feel, at least on cheaper lenses. I don't have the money for pro glass, so I don't know if the grass is greener there.

 

For example my Nikkor 50mm 1.8 AF-D has probably 130 degree focus ring turn from 0.45m to infinity, while My Pentax 50mm 1.7 smc-m has 220 degrees... When the focus ring is more tightly cramped, AF is faster, but precise manual focus is hard.

 

Also in my AF lenses the focus ring is not smooth and generally feels flimsy, so it's not very enjoyable to use manual focus.

Maybe built-in's max sync speed is 1/200, I haven't actually bothered to find out.

 

With my age-old manual Braun 320 BVC flash (straight mounted in camera's hotshoe) I get clear shots with 1/250.

 

1/320 is maybe 1/12th covered with black

1/400 ~ 1/4th covered

1/500 1/3th and

1/640 is about half covered.

 

So maybe the 1/200 is "just in case" speed, where you are always confirmed to get a clear shot. I haven't really done any compherensive tests.