scott_hicks4

<p>Matt,<br />My only hope was to offer some advice for those in the market for such items not to "drive" anyone anywhere. Clearly if they see this post here on photo.net, they already are familiar with it and what it offers. Why not refrain from making comments that detract from the post itself. If the advice is useful for you, then great. If not, I think the back button should suffice.</p>

 

<p>This post is just a friendly word of advice for anyone who may be in the market for a camera bag (similar to the Shootsac) that can used during your shoots for quick lens changes. If this is you, I would not recommend that you purchase the Bokehbag as seen on Ebay, Etsy, or from the website http://www.byrdboutique.com.<br>

I bought one and it proved to be a mistake on my part. To read my complete review on this, it is posted at - http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1018&thread=38263386<br>

Thanks.</p>

 

<p>Thanks for all the insightful responses. Guess we'll have to wait and see what Canon does ultimately. If anyone catches wind of anything, please drop a note. </p>

<p>Just curious if any one knew of any soon to be announced sales, rebates, etc. for Canon? Especially with regards to the 5D MII and L series lenses.<br>

Thanks.<br>

Scott</p>

 

Thanks to everyone for the information.

Roman Forum Shots<div></div>

Venice Street 2<div></div>

Venice Street<div></div>

Rome Street<div></div>

Sorry, try these again...

Here are some I took a few years back when I used to shoot 35mm. They are from Florence, Venice, and Rome.<div></div>

Thanks for the responses. After looking closer, it does seem the left side is slightly darker. I guess I could always position my subjects on the left or flip my camera if I only need to fill their faces! Seriously, though, it does beg the question as to how I can effectively compensate for it with this equipment or is the only option to upgrade my gear? My ISO is already set to 100 and if I narrow my aperture, then I will lose the DOF that the larger aperture provides. Suggestions?

Doug mentioned the 580ex HSF (Thanks Doug). I need to research this a bit more to better understand it I guess.

Image 4<div></div>

Image 3<div></div>

Image 2<div></div>

I'm struggling to understand something with regards to the flash sync on my

Canon 20D. In addition to using the 20D body, I am using a non-dedicated

Sunpak 383 flash. Apparently I'm missing something here so I'm hoping you more

seasoned photography experts can enlighten me...

 

OK, as I understand it, the flash sync is the fastest shutter that can be used

on someone's camera and still perceive the effects of the flash. My 20D has a

max of 1/250. For example, when I use my on camera flash, this shutter speed

gets locked at 1/250 to avoid exceeding the sync. I have to basically adjust

my exposure (aperture, ISO, etc.) to be consistent with at (or less) than

1/250. I assume that would be case if I used a Canon dedicated flash as well.

 

Here's where I'm struggling...And correct me if I'm not understanding

something here PLEASE....Using my Sunpak 383 (a non-dedicated flash), the

camera does not "lock" at 1/250, but you'd naturally assume that if I exceeded

1/250 in my shutter settings, I either would not perceive the flash at all or

there would be a partial exposure result in a "slit" in the photo.

 

This what what I cannot grasp, during my last senior shoot (and other shoots),

I was using flash as "fill flash" and I was using Aperture Priority, meaning

the shutter was not fixed. I had shutters anywhere from 1/640 to 1/1000 and

the flash still worked great to fill the subject. Does this mean my flash sync

is truly greater than 1/250 or am I missing something here?

 

Here are 4 images.<div></div>

Hi Jeff,

I know you mentioned that you prefer B&W, but I must say, your color images are superb. When working with color, do you have your camera set to saturate the image or is it on more of a "natural" setting? If natural, what are you doing in Post?

 

Thanks.