pietro_chelli1

Hello I am looking for a Travelwide or a Fotoman 45 SP (preferably the SPS) camera, or other similar point and shoot 4x5 camera.

 

Seems really hard to get hold of one !

 

Anticipated thanks to those who can help : )

 

Pietro

I am looking for a Fotoman 45 camera, preferably in the SPS version if someone is willing to sell

I am currently using a 90mm lens and a 135mm lens, so it would be great to have a cone to go with one of the two lenses, although not necessarily.

Thank you,

I am looking for a Toyo 45 CF in good usable conditions. Preferably in Europe, otherwise we can agree on a shipment arrangement. Thank you for looking !

Pietro

As per the title, I am looking for an Apo Sironar S 135mm f/5.6 lens, in good conditions.

Shipment to Europe.

Thank you for looking !

: )

Pietro

<p>Dear Alex! First of all congratulations on getting The Mamiya RZ. Actually, this beast is still alive and shooting - many important photographers still use it and it has produced some of the world best images, so I am sure you won't be disappointed with it. <br>

If I may suggest, your post is a bit confusing in the sense that it's hard to grasp the exact question that you're asking.<br>

Try and post clear questions - the fewer the lines, the better - that way you will get more help !!<br>

Are your subjects in motion? Are you hand holding or shooting on a tripod?<br>

If you focus on a subject and then move the camera around, that subject might not be in focus anymore, depending on the distance from you and these subjects, what lens you are using and what aperture you are using. Assuming you are on a tripod and your subjects are not moving, to begin with, try and do this: do the composition as it were the exact final composition. Then put in focus the subject which is farther away. Then stop down the aperture (so f8, f11, f16, f22 etc.) while holding down the depth of field preview lever on the lens, which will make your ground glass go a bit darker, but will also show you which parts of your composition are in focus and which aren't. It might be hard to do this at night time, but I would start with this.<br>

Best,</p>

<p>Hello PC<br>

A few things come up to my mind.<br>

Assuming you hear the click when you turn the camera from the off to the on position, I would first double check that the battery is of the right voltage - there are a few options of batteries you can use, including small cells layered one on top of the other, as per the company's indications, but the only one that really does the job is the L28 and it has to have 6vlts, although it says that you can go with a lower voltage solution. On top of that, the problem could also be that the battery lid's metal slide does not touch the battery tip. I would also want to see how the camera behaves on multiple exposure mode, just to be safe it's not some other problem. Other than that, I would also, if within the terms, try and get my money back from the ebay seller, especially if it was sold as fully functional. Let us know!</p>

<p>Thank you Dan, I'd imagine it is going to be a hassle and that I will have to engineer some absurd way of mounting it, but to me it is worth trying. I have a 5DMII that I use for commercial work, but, to be honest, I am not at all impressed by the quality of it, or of the prints that come out of it. I am very keen in trying this option. It would be great to have the measurements of the base of the finder block, without the piece where the ground glass is attached - I believe this bottom piece can come off - I can't seem to find these measurements anywhere, and they would be very useful!<br>

Thanks, Pietro</p>

<p>Hello everyone !!<br>

I have always had a big deal of help by posting on and reading this forum (many brains work better than one), so I am going to try once more!<br>

I have two Mamiya 7II bodies.<br>

I am very fond of this camera because to me, the color rendition the resolution and contrast are unsurpassable.<br>

I use these for my personal work, like street or environmental portraits, and would love to use it for my professional work, but never really had the courage to take it on a job, or an assignment. The main reason being, is that I don't feel comfortable in composing the frame through the (approximate) viewer. My work, in fact, requires a certain formal composition, so I kind of want to be sure that when I get my negatives back from development, I shot "exactly" what I wanted. <br>

So I had this idea: if I compose with a ground glass on one of the bodies, possibly with an angle finder, I can work out my exact composition, then I just switch cameras on the tripod and shoot my frame on the camera with film.<br>

Has anyone tried to adapt a Mamiya 7 body putting a ground glass on it, or even better a ground glass in a finder piece? <br>

I found the Horseman angle finder could be a potential candidate. I am trying to find the exact measurements to see if it could fit. I welcome other suggestions too !<br>

Thanks, Pietro</p>

<p>Greg! Thanks. I thought that would be the case. I hope I can get some servicing somewhere here in Italy!<br>

best pietro</p>

<p>Hello everyone!<br>

A simple question. In the 7 II you can change the lens while having a film inside as long as you close<br>

the curtain to avoid that the film gets exposed. The last time I did use this mechanism, I noticed that the<br>

curtain in fact, does not go all the way to the end (the far right), instead it seems that the curtain<br>

stops moving to the right at about 3-4mm from the end. I am unsure if this is the way it is supposed<br>

to work or no. It seems to me that the wheel you turn to close the curtain does not do the very last "click" that brings it to the end.<br>

Can someone check if the curtain in their Mamiya 7II closes in a different way???<br>

I am posting a picture to show what I mean...</p>

<p>best regards and many thanks to all !</p>

<p>pietro<br>

<img src="http://www.pietrochelli.com/mamiyacurtain.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Can anyone suggest me where to find a new (cheap!) or used one!<br>

doesn't show up anywhere!<br>

best</p>

<p>pietro</p>

<p>Hey guys ! thanks for all the clarifications! can someone confirm leslie's thought about the fact that with a 0.58 I can consider the whole frame of the finder to the very edge as my 24mm borders? i think i will go with an m7 so at least i have the option of shooting on AE and use an external finder, eventually, thanks Dick : )<br>

pietro</p>

<p>Yes, I photograph people and I know it's kind of strange when you get in people's faces. But I've always done that so that is kind of my way of doing it. The 24 would be then my most used focal, to be more precise. And also, I would like it to be as instinctive as possible, so maybe it is nice to look in an auxiliary finder and just see the compositions coming and going. I have noticed also that among the wides the 24 is kind of the hardest to find ( I mean used and old, not the new asph meant to go with the digital - I do only Black and White).</p>

<p>Hello!<br>

I am just about to step in the M world, as I want (need) to go back on road and do some street photography.<br>

I would be using focals between 21 and 28, for the moment i am not at all considering focal above these.<br>

I have two doubts though!<br>

First: is it of great help getting an M with a .058 RF magnification? will I also see lines for a the 21?<br>

I am asking this because I have noticed that the .072 is much easier to find used, which is what I am hoping to get ( a used model)<br>

Another doubt that I have is this: if i get an auxiliary viewfinder, is it coupled with the cameras rangefinder?<br>

I think i know the answer to this one: NOOOOOO!<br>

It's just for viewing and composing, right???<br>

Thanks for your well appreciated suggestions!<br>

regards<br>

pietro</p>

Hello.

 

I am about to step up to 8x10. Cannot wait. I want to be drowned by pixels : )

 

I am trying to understand what lens I want. I would like to pick the

1 lens that I am going to stick to forever. I will not use several lenses, but

most likely just one, as I have done also with other formats.

 

I shoot portrait and environmental portrait, and was wondering if

a 305-306 (12 inch) is the right choice, or a 360 (14 inch) is a better choice.

And also if this choice could depend on what is available.

 

I want a good, sharp and excellent chromatic contrast lens.

There is an option to get a GOERZ APO ARTAR 305MM F 9.0.

 

I understand that there are artars "red dot" and artars that are APO,

although the seller states this:

 

"The early Apochromatic artars are designated "red dot". This is a very late/modern design.

Schneider was the last owner of the rights to produce the Artar line - they acquired the "company" sometime

around 1990. It is the same lens, updated and of course on a modern shutter."

 

Would this be correct?

 

Any other recommendations????

 

Many anticipated thanks and Best Regards

 

pietro

Hello!

Could everyone post a list of their favourite Portrait Lenses on 8x10, with a short note

on why they love that particular one or two!

Let us include also the really old ones!

 

All the best

 

pietro

I appreciate all responses, truly, but....guys....it has got way to technical. I am just a photographer and this post was more to see

images shot with these lenses, and not about technical aspects....

 

pietro

Noah! Thank you for your posting..... i like the images you took with the 127..... your posting is very helpful....seeing images, even scans of polas, bring you much closer to a real decision : )

Bill! what do you mean by the Xenotar is legendary???

Do you have images / knw where to see some or find some taken with a 135 or a 150 (I believe there is also a 150 Xenotar, or am I wrong?)

 

Thanks for your help!

pietro

Can anyone post images taken with these lenses.

It would be of great help in deciding which one to purchase,

as I am undecided between these 2 options, and technical

aspects at the end will not help make my decisions.

Anything from portraits, environmental portraits to

landscape or close up work.

Thanks to everyone listening!

 

Kind Regards

 

pietro

It really would be great to see some images taken with these lenses.

I am really curious to see images taken with the Xenotar 3.5-

Thank to all for your contributions.

pietro

Ok. I obviously write in a very poor english these days.

 

What I really ment, and what I would like to hear, is not quality comparisons on the lens performances, but personal views on the "feel" of the images produced by those (and other ones maybe) lenses.

 

I am, indeed concerned on what really matters, and not at all on the lens coverage. I would like to understand, if for example, a Xenotar is a softer lens particularly nice for portraits. Or if one of these lenses renders better in black and white than in colour, because of its way to reproduce colour contrast.

 

By the way I shoot environmental portraits.

 

Thanks for everyone responses in any case. There is always something new to learn!

 

Ciao pietro

Hello everyone!

 

i am writing this post, because I am in the process of deciding what 135 trying

to find/purchase.

 

More than technical differences (like the best coating/resolution/coverage) etc.

it would be very especially nice to hear comments on the "feel" of these lenses.

 

Also, if someone has images that they took with these lenses, that would be

beautiful to see, especially portraits or environmental portraits, but also

everything else that could give me an idea of the lens peculiarity.

 

Thanks to everyone and Kind Regards

 

pietro

Hello everyone!

 

I need to do some art reproductions of paintings, and I was thinking of using a

P45 back + a Hasselblad V + a 120 MacroPlanar. I have never used one before, so

I was asking myself what kind of settings would be good to use, in terms of

contrast, colour faithfullness, 16 bit vs 8 bit etc.

 

Also, is a 12" Powerbook

 

with MAC OSX (Tiger)

 

and the following Hardware Overview:

 

Machine Name: PowerBook G4 12"

Machine Model: PowerBook6,8

CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (1.5)

Number Of CPUs: 1

CPU Speed: 1.5 GHz

L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB

Memory: 768 MB

Bus Speed: 167 MHz

Boot ROM Version: 4.9.0f0

Serial Number: 4H538080RJ5

Sudden Motion Sensor:

State: Enabled

Version: 1.0

 

going to do the job, at least temporarily?

Hello Everyone!

I vividly hope I can get some super insight on this issue....!

I've benn commissioned to shoot an important fresco artwork in a temple in India.

 

I have not seen the place, nor seen pictures of it, but I have been described how the place looks like

by someone that has been. Basically it is a room with these measurements: l: 6mt, w: 4m, h:6mt.

 

What I have to photograph is the fresco on the roof. The roof is actually divided into 3 couples, which

have

somewhat like a rounded concavity (like all couples!), which makes things a little harder. Too

complicate things even further, the fresco also comes down the main 4 walls for a meter or so (i've

dotted this on the drawing).

 

Here is a drawing (really roough, please excuse me) on how the thing building looks like:

 

http://www.pietrochelli.com/Public/site.pdf

 

My question is how to light this.

I will be using a 4x5, and have a 65, a 90 and a 210.

 

I can obviously also divided it and shoot it in portions, as I doubt I will be able to get the whole fresco

with one image.

 

Now the thing is the lighting.

 

I can't really light this from the side as I normally do for painting reproductions because I cannot place

the lights from an angle (like outside the building). I have heard someone suggesting to cross light,

that is light the left portion of my frame from the right, and the right portion from the left, in that way

the left and right portions of the frame won't have direct reflections from the lights.

 

I accept all suggestions!

 

Thank you for your help

 

pietro

hi everyone!

 

I seem to have focusing probelms using a Contax 35 1.4 zeiss lens on my Canon 1 DSMII. I am sure

someone else is out here in the forum has used this lens or other contax lens on their digital Canon

for a longer time and has some suggestions to give. Could be adapter .- I know there are several in the

market, maybe some are better than others.

The focusing problem resists at closed aps like 11 or 16 (min ap.), so I guess it's the adapter/ring.

 

Thanks for your attention and I really appreciate your help

 

Pietro