robert_haury

I was thinking about your subject matter. Have you considered trying

some double exposures? Take the first picture in daylight and metre

for the hihglights (the windows) then wait for night fall and do the

second of the interior (lit by interior lighting) You would probably

still have some reciprocity failure to deal with but you should get a

much more normal contrast range. Rob

A good starting point for you might be Using The View Camera by Steve

Simmons. In it he has a table of reciprocity corrections and

recommended development time adjustments. The way I've been doing it

is to meter the shadows and place them in zone 3 then adjust dev.

time according to the contrast range after adjusting for reciprocity.

In other words I might reduce dev time by 5% for reciprocity then 15%

for n-1. But as I am still a LF rookie my times are still being

experimented with.

Rob

Andy

I just got started in large format and I own a Nagaoka (similer to

Tachihara) I recomend going this way. I think you'll find the extra

movements allowed by the Thachihara will be usefull and maybe crucial

down the road. I too shot landscapes and such with my 24mm or 28mm

lens with my 35mm camera. I have found though that with LF even a

150mm lens seems to wide at times. I would suggest you try a more

normal length lens first (try renting one) befor you buy. As far as

pulling out your 35mm. I have become so enthralled with the 4x5

format that my 35mm gets very little use anymore. I think you'll soon

feel the same. Rob

I am happy to report that the unicolor drums performed as I had

hoped. I just Developed 12 negs and all are evenly developed and

scratch free. I did the agitation by hand since the roller base I

purchased hasn't arrived yet. By the way the Yankee tank makes a

great film washer.

Rob

Thanks for the responses. I think the suggestion for the uniroller

tanks is an excellent one. It looks like it's just what I've been

looking for.

<p>

Rob

I am new to large format photography. I've been using a Yankee Agitank (picked up used). I'm getting some uneven development (surprise?) As I'm on a limited budget I can't justify the expense of a JOBO processor but I am interested in the tanks (less chemicals used, even development) Has anybody had any experiance with this? Does anybody have any suggestions for getting better results with the Yankee tank? I don't have the space to do in tray processing.

Thanks

Thanks for your responses. One thing I forgot to say is that I used

tri-x back in college and liked the tonality alot. But since I was

using 35mm the grain was unacceptable to me. So I switched to the

slower films. In making the move to 4x5 I was hoping to be able to go

back (to tri-x) but one of the reasons for going to large format is

the sharpness and lack of grain. I know I'll need to do my own

testing but it never hurts to ask the question.

<p>

Thanks again

Rob

Being new to large format (just bought a used field camera) I'm trying to decide on a film to use. I've always used Ilford Pan F or Delta 100 when shooting 35mm or 6x6. The reason is for the tight grain. With the larger 4x5 film is the grain going to be apparent with tri-x? I will probably not be going any larger than 20x24 prints.

Thanks for your suggestions

Rob