robert_haury
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Posts posted by robert_haury
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A good starting point for you might be Using The View Camera by Steve
Simmons. In it he has a table of reciprocity corrections and
recommended development time adjustments. The way I've been doing it
is to meter the shadows and place them in zone 3 then adjust dev.
time according to the contrast range after adjusting for reciprocity.
In other words I might reduce dev time by 5% for reciprocity then 15%
for n-1. But as I am still a LF rookie my times are still being
experimented with.
Rob
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Andy
I just got started in large format and I own a Nagaoka (similer to
Tachihara) I recomend going this way. I think you'll find the extra
movements allowed by the Thachihara will be usefull and maybe crucial
down the road. I too shot landscapes and such with my 24mm or 28mm
lens with my 35mm camera. I have found though that with LF even a
150mm lens seems to wide at times. I would suggest you try a more
normal length lens first (try renting one) befor you buy. As far as
pulling out your 35mm. I have become so enthralled with the 4x5
format that my 35mm gets very little use anymore. I think you'll soon
feel the same. Rob
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I have a 135mm Kodak Wide Field Ektar. The outside diameter of the flange on the mounting ring is 47mm. What size is lensboard do I need? I'm guessing a #1.Thanks, Rob
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I am happy to report that the unicolor drums performed as I had
hoped. I just Developed 12 negs and all are evenly developed and
scratch free. I did the agitation by hand since the roller base I
purchased hasn't arrived yet. By the way the Yankee tank makes a
great film washer.
Rob
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Thanks for the responses. I think the suggestion for the uniroller
tanks is an excellent one. It looks like it's just what I've been
looking for.
<p>
Rob
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I am new to large format photography. I've been using a Yankee Agitank (picked up used). I'm getting some uneven development (surprise?) As I'm on a limited budget I can't justify the expense of a JOBO processor but I am interested in the tanks (less chemicals used, even development) Has anybody had any experiance with this? Does anybody have any suggestions for getting better results with the Yankee tank? I don't have the space to do in tray processing.
Thanks
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Thanks for your responses. One thing I forgot to say is that I used
tri-x back in college and liked the tonality alot. But since I was
using 35mm the grain was unacceptable to me. So I switched to the
slower films. In making the move to 4x5 I was hoping to be able to go
back (to tri-x) but one of the reasons for going to large format is
the sharpness and lack of grain. I know I'll need to do my own
testing but it never hurts to ask the question.
<p>
Thanks again
Rob
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Being new to large format (just bought a used field camera) I'm trying to decide on a film to use. I've always used Ilford Pan F or Delta 100 when shooting 35mm or 6x6. The reason is for the tight grain. With the larger 4x5 film is the grain going to be apparent with tri-x? I will probably not be going any larger than 20x24 prints.
Thanks for your suggestions
Rob
Zone System & Reciprocity Failure
in Large Format
Posted
I was thinking about your subject matter. Have you considered trying
some double exposures? Take the first picture in daylight and metre
for the hihglights (the windows) then wait for night fall and do the
second of the interior (lit by interior lighting) You would probably
still have some reciprocity failure to deal with but you should get a
much more normal contrast range. Rob