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gary_morris

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Posts posted by gary_morris

  1. I have the Induro C214 tripod (also the MC24 monopod) and am fairly impressed...Had the Manfrotto 053MF4 (MagFiber). Naturally, it will only go as low as the Center Column is long and they make a Short column for this...There doesn't appear to be an easy way to eliminate the Center Column as you can do with say a Gitzo (Kirk has an FP-100 to completely eliminate the center column.

     

    One thing I just finised doing was "re-inforcing" the top of the Center Column where the aluminum "plug" fits inside the Carbon tubing. I had read of someone carrying their gear on their shoulder and having the top of the center column come out. Mine had 1 "pin" holding the threaded aluminum plug into the top of the Carbon Center Column and I added 2 more. I'm sure there is high-quality glue also holding it but...I also checked my Monopod and it had 2 pins and I added a third.

    GaryM

  2. Decided to buy Induro (Benro) tripod and short column last Wednesday...went to

    B&H first and saw the popup window about them being closed. Went to Adorama,

    didn't see anything about being closed, ordered (upgraded shipping to 2-day

    Air) and it said that it should ship out the next day. Saw status of "Pending"

    on Thursday (late) and called to see why. Message said "Closed for Holidays".

    I finally get in touch with them today (Sunday) and they e-mailed me saying it

    should ship tomorrow (Monday). Is this normal for Adorama?

    GaryM

  3. A couple of points...I don't believe in the "Don't see the dust, leave it alone" idea as dust is there and the longer it sits, the harder it will be to get off. I've never had to use wet method as I periodically use the "Air First" (Giottos Rocket Blower), "Visible Dust Brush Second" method. I'm sure if I change lens and set the camera down "Sensor Up", something could get on the sensor (AA Filter actually) that would need wet cleaning. ALSO, both my 40D and XTi require ECLIPSE2 fluid as the original Eclipse fluid will damage coatings.
  4. Do yourself a favor and DON'T get those SterlinkTek batteries...

    A: They are NOT 1700mAh (The ones I tested before I sent them back were both ~680mAh

    B: Many persons have reported that these batteries have gotten stuck in their cameras...not good

    Check out other, good, reputable, properly sized and properly labeled (read not falsly advertised) batteries from Lenmar, Quest, Maha, etc.

    for about the same price.

  5. ... I just found a higher mAh on the SterlingTek site for 511 (2000mAh) than the 511A (1800mAh)...

     

    Can't believe any rating given by SterlingTek...Some batteries will even come with no ratings whatsoever on the battery. They are taking advantage of people who are strictly looking at Capacity/cost ratio.

    GaryM

  6. I've read the same thing in the BG-E2 and BG-E3 manuals and can only summize that because Canon doesn't sell AA batteries, they don't suggest using them. But the capacity advantage with AA's is there (especially so with the BG-E3 that uses NB-2L)

    GaryM

  7. I've gotten basically the same results with my 20D as my XTi...6 AA's in the XTi gives a lot more capacity than 2 NB-2L's.

     

    If your cells are not charging up to ~1.5V and at ~1.36V when fully charged, then they aren't fully charged.

     

    The La Cross BC-900 (Firmware 33) is a really nice tool as you can charge, discharge, measure actual capacity, etc.

    GaryM

  8. My First post must not have made it...It was:

     

    The key is 6 good, fully charged AA cells. Most cheap chargers don't fully charge (don't come close). Personally, I use Lenmar Mach1 Gamma to fast charge without overheating then La Cross BC-900 to top-off. Also may want to consider the new "Low Self Discharge" cells (Sanyo Eneloop, Rayovac Hybrid, etc.) lower capacity but hold charge similar to Li-Ion.

    GaryM

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