carl_becker2

<p>You will find lenses not made for the Sony a7 using an adapter will be larger and probably heavier than the Sony lens. I use Nikkor Canon and Contax on my a7. The Zeiss made lens are promising but heavy. Pick your compromise.</p>

<p>Last winter I went from a Nikon D700 to a Sony A7. I also purchased a D7000 for auto focus and tele (300mm f4 + TC) work. The Sony works fine for manual focus, a am using a Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 and C/Y 35-70mm zooms (huge on a A7) plus primes from 28-100mm Nikkor, Canon FD and Contax-Yashica. I have purchased an adapter for each lens. Each lens is rather large and heavy but the Sony A7 body is much smaller and lighter so there is a reduction in volume and weight. When I need AF I use the D7000 other times it is the A7. Each different things well. I have yet to try a Sony or Zeiss lens and probably will not because of selection, performance or price not being a good value IMHO.</p>

<p>I want a full frame sensor, small light body so that I can carry it for longer distances. I have a D7000 to use with my 17-35 Nikkor and 300mm f4 Nikkor. I sold my D700 and purchased the A7. Lens selection is limited but I found some older Contax glass that works well. After much research I can't see Leica M glass being a good fit with the A7, R glass maybe. I use a narrow range of wide to short tele, manual focus and stop down metering. This works very well with the A7. I may purchase some Sony/Zeiss glass in the future like the 35 & 55mm. 28 to 75mm would satisfy my wants with this camera. Keep it simple and light.<br>

SLR glass with the adapter really makes for a bigger camera but still smaller and much lighter than a Dx00. I do hope the 24-70mm turns out to be top notch, it would make a possible one lens solution for me. but I may just stick to primes.</p>

 

<p>I just recently purchased a Sony a7, coming from a Nikon D700. I mostly use aperture priority and have set C2 for ISO setting. Currently I am using Contax SLR lens with it. If the shutter speed is to low I just press C2 and spin the dial to what I need. C1 controls focus magnification. Still getting familiar with it but the size and results are impressive. Since I manual focus and don't do action it fits my wants well. Travel, hiking and landscape using a tripod are my main endeavors. IMHO the shutter is not very loud either. I will probably purchase the 35mm f2.8 for the smallest, lightest package when needed.</p>

<p>I sold my AF-D 20mm f2.8 and replaced it with a 17-35 AF-S. Gained quality, size and weight. Still have my 28mm f2 AIS and 35mm f2 AIS.</p>

<p>I would base the decision on what lenses you have and whether you shoot wide to normal or tele. I see benefits for DX when using tele or you already have DX lenses. Under 200mm I think FX may be the better choice.</p>

<p>Dang, I meant full shift instead of tilt!</p>

<p>I have the D700 and rented the PCE 24 a few years back. As I recall shift is limited going up into the flash housing. I was only interested in tilt for DoF control for landscape shots. For architecture and full tilt I would use a different body.</p>

<p>You need to decide how valuable the lens is to you and what you can afford to repair it. I don't have that lens but if I used it daily then I would certainly get it fixed if I could afford it and the repair bill was not close to the new price for replacement. Used replacement would not be as good IMHO as you would not know the exact condition of the lens.</p>

<p>I like my Nikkor glass so I use a Nikon body. IMHO it is about the glass then which body has what I need-D700 is my choice.</p>

<p>I use a Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 and Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 with my D700 and am quite happy with both. High value IMHO. Higher res bodies may make this not so high a value.</p>

<p>Replace the 18-55 with a used 18-70mm. Use it and save for a body with better AF, viewfinder and ISO performance. Hopefully soccer and football are daytime activities.</p>

<p>I have been using the Tamron with my D700 for a few years without issue. I prefer "fast" zooms or better yet faster f2 primes.</p>

<p>I would decide which features are most important to you. Lens availability, focus speed, controls on the body, fit in hand etc. Which ever brand meets your most important needs is the one to get. IMHO it is the compromise that best fits your needs is what you should get. You can get great results with most modern camera's. The person behind the camera is what makes the difference.</p>

<p>I use a D700 and have only looked at the D600. Personally I prefer the left side controls and that would out weigh (pun intended) megapixel and weight differences. Improved dynamic range is still very important IMHO. Very hard choice.</p>

<p>With my D700 I use some older primes, the 17-35 f2.8 Nikkor, Tamron 28-75mm f2.8, Nikkors 105mm ais, 180mm f2.8 and af-s 300mm f4. I think it wish to put very good glass in front of the body. If you have a favorite focal length get the best for your needs. If a zoom get the best for your needs. I don't care for slow zooms even if I usually stop down to f5.6 or f8. A good tripod will help greatly, I hope you are using one. PC-E glass can be really helpful.</p>

<p>If you are concerned because you read the 35mm f2 is bad then I don't think you need a new lens. You could try and rent a new 35mm f1.4 and test it. Zeiss makes a 35mm f2 manual that gets rave reviews and I have seen it for rent. I use an older 35mm f2 AIS which is fine at f8. Corners are not so great wide open but it will do.</p>

<p>BEAR ATTACKS, their causes and avoidance by Stephen Herrero is an excellent source of information, and I would highly recommend it not only to photographers, but to all who enter bear habitat.<br>

I have read this book as I would like to increase my chances of living when near bears. A very good read. I don't have much experience with bears but a whole lot of respect.<br>

Being in a group may feel safe but from what I know it is no guarantee of living. Risk is part of living.</p>

<p>I am not a long distance hiker but I am a ultra light backpacker. I found a very small light Gitzo and with a small head, it is very light - about 20 ounces. I use a D700 on it but very low. It is stable enough and the size works for what I do. For my weekend trips of 15 miles I carry about 15 pounds of pack using a Fuji X100 + Gitzo including food, water, shelter etc. Add a couple of pounds when I take the D700 and lens. </p>

<p>I think you can rent one of the "normal" wide angle zooms from Nikon, Sigma, Tokina etc. I suggest you look at something in the 10-24mm range. IMHO fisheye's are not versatile.</p>

<p>I accepted the compromise of the Fuji x100. It works for my needs. The X pro 1 looks very good but is larger and more $$$. I would probably bring another lens along if I had that, more stuff and $$$. I also use the D700.</p>

<p>Between the D90 and D200 I would choose the D90. I had a D200 and liked the body controls but the ISO performance ended at 400 ISO for me. I also had the 18-70mm and would recommend that as well. I don't care for slow zooms at all. If a newer body has what you require and is in budget you should consider that option as well.</p>

<p>A D7000 using a Nikkor 300mm f4 then add a TC1.4 if needed on a good tripod would be the path I would take.</p>

<p>If you are happy with the DX format and are not missing anything then I would stay with DX. I would look at the D7000 if you want another body. I am not sure of the control button changes between the two which would be very important to me. You can always wait until Nikon releases a new body. That happens fairly often but my crystal ball fails when it comes to which format or body number just like rumors. If you need something today purchase what meets your needs. If you can wait then get the next gen that meets your needs. I expect many more years usage from my 4 year old body and will not be spending $$$$ on the latest and greatest.</p>

<p>I would use the 18-70mm for single to group shots. If you want a blurred background work with wide aperture and increased distance behind subject.</p>