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dschuleman

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Posts posted by dschuleman

    Help me pick a new lens!

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I do not know how to handle your specific problem because it seems like you really do not know where you want to go with focal lengths, but I can suggest some excellent lenses that you should look at. First, the Canon 70-200mm f4L (non IS), which can be had for about $500-550 used, I think would be a perfect compromise for you because it is lighter and smaller than the 2.8 version and has about 97% of the same image quality. For very wide angle, the best cheapest option is the Tokina 12-24mm f4, which new is $400. These two lenses, if purchased, could lead to a significant gap in your kit. Another suggestion is the canon 17-85mm f4.5-5.6 IS, which is the medium quality walk around lens being a step up from your kit lens and a step down from the L series. That lens is $400-600. Some others that you could look into in that lens bracket are the: 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 (not the 4.5-5.6) and 24-85mm f3.5-4.5. The tamron 17-50mm f2.8 is also very good. Finally, the only 18-200mm I would consider is the Canon version, the 18-200mm IS, but I would suggest that you only get this if you really need an all in one solution, otherwise having multiple lenses will give you much better picture quality.<br>

    Good luck, and you may want to try buying used to save $$ on nicer lenses.<br>

    /D </p>

    70-200mm F4L Back Focusing on 30D

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    I have a 70-200 f4, and when I bought the lens, it focused fine and produced some very sharp photos. Now every

    photo is slightly out of focus, and I have determined that it is backfocusing through test shots and real world shot

    examination. Are there any solutions to this other than sending it in? Is it the Camera Body or the Lens?

     

    Thanks,

    Danny

    i wet my camera 3 weeks ago and i still works but one problem...i can't view my pictures. *cries*

    in Mirrorless Digital Cameras

    Posted

    A camera model and the specific areas where the sierra mist affected it would be handy in diagnosing your problem.

    You say that you know you can put the pictures on the computer, but have you tried this to see that your pictures are even being recorded?

     

    Your best bet will be to try connecting it to a computer and seeing if you do indeed have your files, and if you do, open up the camera, take everything out of it, and let it sit a couple of days, after wiping any mist residue off. If you there are no files on the computer, then your problem is much more severe, and probably will require repair.

     

    Good luck and be careful,

     

    Danny

    Beginner help with Elan 7N

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Hey,

     

    I own an Elan 7e and it is a great camera. It will do what its told, at least in the manual modes, but it can also think for you. It is pretty much a film version of the 10D/20D/30D/40D series, so if you have experience with those you can know what to expect.

    Scariest situations with your DSLR

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    I was taking pictures at a Parade in St. Louis and was looking through the viewfinder for a very long stretch of time (with a telephoto lens) of some floats going by...when I took the camera down from my face I noticed, about 30 ft back, a float was coming where people walked with it squirting water at the parade-watchers with super soakers. Fortunately, I had enough time to duck, turn around, and put my camera in its case.

     

    I knew I should have gotten the 70-200 f4L IS and not the non-stabilized version cause of the weather sealing :(

     

    Danny

    assistant @ her 1st wedding, eager for critique

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    1st photo: seems slightly out of focus

     

    2nd: The foreground objects are a little distracting

     

    3rd: has good potential but it looks like it was shot at a high ISO and it was cleaned up

     

    4th: same as 3

     

    5th: good, but shoot at a lower ISO next time

     

    All in all, pretty good...you seem to know how compose well and capture the moment, just err on the side of

    blurriness for detail aka lower the iso and be more conservative on the noise reduction

     

    Good Job.

     

    Danny

    XTi lens for a street photographer

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    I have heard pretty good things about the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. It has great sharpness and good bokeh (the way the

    things not in focus look...good lenses have the creamy look and with bad lenses the backgrounds are distractingly

    not smooth). That lens would be very close to the equivalent of a 50mm, which I am sure his eye is trained for

    from his 35mm days. It is a little over your budget, at $400, but I think the little extra is worth it in you

    Dad's case, and it can serve as a shorter portrait lens AND a great photojournalism/street photography lens.

     

    http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-30mm-Canon-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U0GZM/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1214888328&sr=8-2

     

    As for portfolios, check out picasaweb.google.com/chez.dan The recent albums are of the Henry Sibley High School

    summer marching band of which I was "hired" to photograph (I am doing it for free...its the local high school,

    and I am not exactly 100% professional yet). Feel free to look around!

     

    Good luck on your search,

     

    Danny

    Sony DSLR A200

    in Sony/Minolta

    Posted

    You can increase the ISO. I do not know how do to this on your specific camera, but changing the ISO to 800 or 1600 will give you much faster shutter speeds allowing to take sharp hand-held shots (beware though, the higher the ISO, the more noise you will see in the images).

    First time DSLR owner...need lens help!

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    In your case, I think the best way to go would to increase the budget a little and get the kit lens along with the 50/1.8. The kit lens will be just fine for your needs right now and can focus very close, and the 50mm is the lens you can use when image quality really matters. You don't want to go with the 28-90 cause this won't get wide enough (with the 1.6 multiplier of you XTi, it is the equivalent of 44.6-144mm) and will probably not focus as fast as the kit lens. As for the durability, the 50/1.8 is probably built a bit better than the kit lens, but both will be fine...it takes a lot to kill 'em, a few bumps won't be that bad.

     

    Good luck,

     

    Danny

    Canon or Nikon (For the Lenses)

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    I think that it depends on your budget. I think if you want the best price/performance ratio, Canon would be the

    way to go. A 17-40mm f4L and a 70-200 f4L along with maybe a 50mm f1.4 could be had for under $1500 and would be

    an excellent kit. I don't see Nikon offering lenses like these at these prices. If you want the best of the

    best, the ultimate professional lenses, like the 70-200mm 2.8's and the super telephotos and the great mid-range

    zooms, both manufacturers will provide excellent products. Although, the playing field has been changed a little

    with the D300 automatically compensating some of the lenses' problems, but nothing can solve for details which

    aren't there. Also, for the best possible image quality deal, scoop up one of the 5D's their practically getting

    rid of.

     

    Good Luck,

     

    Danny

    Dumbest Zoom Question Ever, But...

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    The f-stop is the relation of the focal length to the physical opening of the iris. So, if there is a 50mm lens with an F of 2, then the iris on the inside will open up to 25mm wide. As the focal lengths shorten, the opening of the iris can get relatively smaller with the same focal lengths (it will appear that the iris size is getting smaller as you zoom out, but in reality it is staying the same ratio, assuming the lens isn't a fixed aperture zoom) The reason the ultrawides are so large is because it takes a lot of glass to capture the extreme wide angle which they can get. The light rays coming off of the objects need to be reflected to the sensor/film, so the glass bends the light rays (with the wide angles there is a lot light rays to re-direct). If you have a 12-24 zoom, and it is a f/3.5 at 12mm, and the iris stays the same width as the lens zooms, then it would be approximately f/7. This is because the size of the iris at 12mm at f/3.5 would be 3.4mm. If the iris maintains the same width at 24mm, this would be f/7. I think this is a good answer to start, but I bet other members can get a little more technical. (The advertised apertures of lenses aren't always the actual apertures, look at some very finicky lens tests, like in PopPhoto)

     

    As for your aperture blade question, if the kit lenses (18-55mm's) came with an 8-aperture blade, it would be unpractical because at 18mm f/3.5, the iris is about 5mm, which would be very complex and expensive to fit a tiny 8 aperture iris in there. Also, the limited depth of fields with the smaller apertures on cheaper lenses make bokeh quality less of concern.

     

    Hope this somewhat answers you question,

    Danny

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