jefftebbetts

<p>Thank you all!</p>

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<p >Hello, I am running XP pro with SP3 and 4 GB of RAM installed. (<em >Please see system information below</em>) I am using Photoshop CS with a separate 300 GB hard drive dedicated solely as a scratch disk. My cache setting is at level 4 and I have memory usage set to 85%. Under memory usage preferences it states that the available RAM is 1751mb so with the 85% allowed to PS that leaves 1499mb. Here’s the problem. While using the liquefy tool I am constantly running out of memory after just a few adjustments to the image. Can anyone advise me on how to maximize performance and allow PS to use more RAM? I don’t understand why Windows shows 4GB but PS says available RAM is 1751? I know other processes and programs utilize RAM but over 2GB?</p>

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<p >Any advice or insight would be much appreciated</p>

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<p >Thank you!</p>

<p >Jeff</p>

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<p >OS Name Microsoft Windows XP Professional</p>

<p >Version 5.1.2600 Service Pack 3 Build 2600</p>

<p >System Model Dell DXP061</p>

<p >Processor x 86 Family 6 Models 15 Stepping 6 Genuine Intel ~2128 MHz</p>

<p >Total Physical Memory 4,096.00 MB</p>

<p >Available Physical Memory 2.15 GB</p>

<p >Total Virtual Memory 2.00 GB</p>

<p >Available Virtual Memory 1.96 GB</p>

<p >Page File Space 4.84 GB</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have limited experience in this type of shooting but this Sunday I am doing a family picture day for my local school PTO and was hoping to get some advice or suggestions from those who have done this type of thing before. I will be set up and ready to shoot Sunday morning and will continue as families come in throughout the day. I will have a limited amount of time to work with each family therefore I can’t waste time adjusting lights etc between families. What lighting setup do you recommend and should I shoot manual everything as I normally do? I know things will change depending on what the families are wearing etc and group size will change. I have both a full studio setup and my wedding setup which consists of speed lights, pocket wizards etc.<br>

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!<br>

Thanks Jeff</p>

 

<p>My 17-55 does the same thing. I remember asking that question when I first noticed it on mine :)</p>

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<p >I highly recommend the Kodak Guide to 35 mm Photography and it is still a great book to learn photography and camera basics from, however I just noticed that Kodak also has the Kodak Guide to Digital Photography which has been revised to include digital. </p>

<p >Get this book!</p>

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<p>Laura,<br>

No settings I'm sure of that. You say it happened with the SB600 as well? I only say I think it is the flash because it happens when I have the flash on a light stand using a trigger as well. I am going to do some research on my other forums and I will reply back to you when I come up with something. It is an issue that has bothered me because I can’t be worrying about an SB not firing when I am in the middle of a shoot. <br>

Jeff</p>

 

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<p><em>"I know it’s about the photographer and not the equipment"</em><br />In the case of a wedding shooter it <em>is</em> the equipment. Fast lenses are often needed and back up equipment is essential. At times with weddings you are working with high ISO's so a camera that handles high iso's is preferred if you want quality images with acceptable noise levels. So as I said, in this case it <em>is</em> the equiptment as well as the photographer.<br />Jeff</p>

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<p>Laura I have had the same problem with my D300 and SB800. I have 4 SB800's and I don’t believe it happens with all of them but I haven’t kept track to know for sure. I think it is on the flash end and not the D300 end. I actually dislike the PC connection and wish there was a bit more resistance when plugging it in. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else has had problems.<br>

<br>

Jeff</p>

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<p>Steve! Very interesting but how in Gods name do you learn and understand that? What do you do for a living?</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

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<p >My advice is that you show the photographer that you are passionate about photography and that you have the drive and commitment to being a top notch assistant. Covey that you feel very fortunate to have this opportunity and are really looking forward to it. Let him know that you will sick around for a while and don’t give the impression that you will bail and go out on your own leaving him in a bind. The natural progression will be that you will eventually start your own wedding business however a photographer is investing a lot of time and effort into you and doesn’t want to think that you will be bailing on him as soon as you think you have learned enough. Before committing make sure you will be there when you say you will and that you are reliable. Ok, that is what I like to see in an assistant anyhow. Not necessarily a bunch of experience but the commitment, drive, and passion.</p>

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<p >I would ask if you will be able to use the images that you shoot for your portfolio and website. </p>

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<p >I would ask what his expectations are as far as your availability. Weddings dictate that you work weekends and they are normally during the beautiful summer & autumn whether. I also ask that my assistant attend the rehearsal.</p>

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<p >I found my assiatant on PN and she is great! We do well together.</p>

<p>$20 sounds good. Make out 60 plus a few extra slips of paper and have each girl write down their name and contact info. It is a good idea to have them come up to you when it’s their turn and give you the slip. After the shot write down the frame numbers on the student’s paper. This way you have the correct name with the correct picture and you have contact info. When the girls come over to look at the pictures you should get right in there and express which one looks best to you and tell her she looks great! This helps her make a decision faster and pumps up her self esteem a bit :) I always feel like I just shot a wedding after I am done shooting a fraternity or sorority so rest up :)</p>

<p>BTW Sam......The girl’s are a blast and a lot more fun to photograph then the guys however it is extremely hard to get them to choose a pose. The guy’s just say "yea ok that one looks good" but the girls call all their friends over to help them choose :)</p>

<p>I do a limited amount of this stuff on the side for another company and the price varies, however I am thinking somewhere around $800 for somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 students. Don’t hold me to that but at least you know not to do it for peanuts. With 60 girls you want to take 2 quartered left 2 quartered right and one face on. Unless of course the sorority wants everyone facing the same way in which case you need to take at least 2 shots of each girl in that pose in case of out of focus or closed eyes. 60 girls is a lot and will take you about 3 hours. I would charge $1000+ if it were me and I am probably quoting low</p>

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<p>My vote is for the Tamron 2.8 lens. Sooner or later your Wedding work will demand the faster constant aperture such as in low light situations. I use a Tamron 90 2.8 and it focuses and works flawlessly on my D300</p>

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<p >Most will agree that the two biggest and most reputable places are B&H and Adorama. I use both of these and they have been top notch. They usually have the lowest legitimate price as well. There are a few others but these are the two that I would stick with.</p>

<p>Please post EXIF such as shutter speed, aperture etc. Also any other helpful info such as focal length, distance from camera to subject etc.</p>

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<p >The Norman ML400R and ML600R models include built-in PocketWizard receivers</p>

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<p >Although you can almost always count on things NOT going as planned or being on time, I have everything laid out in a timeline starting with the bride getting ready and finishing up with the end of the reception. I have all my formals written down and approved by the bride before hand. I also ask one person that is not in the wedding party that knows both sides of the family to help with getting everyone together and help identify people for me. I personally handle all the must have shots and I am normally in the key locations. My second shooter is either backing me up or in an alterative location in order to get the shot from another angle. After a while the shots you need will come automatic but in the beginning there is nothing wrong with writing then down for reference. Have the bride write down the shots she thinks are the most important and be sure to get those shots. For instance it may be very important to the bride that you get a picture of the grooms face as she walks in for the first time. I write everything down and I go over it with the bride the night before just to make sure. You can never assume and you certainly don’t want to miss a shot that the bride had her heart set on J</p>

<p>I have noticed that these albums are very susceptible to moisture and temp extremes. You definitely need to keep them out of any damp environments. I have had good luck with mine however I did just send back a Graphistudio book for warping and they are fixing it for free.</p>

<p > Taken advantage of? In my opinion what you learn or rather the opportunity that you will have to learn is worth being taken advantage of. In other words what you learn will be invaluable and nobody can take that knowledge away from you once you have it. Yes you will have to haul equipment, get coffee, whatever, but you will also pick up know-how and experience. Keep your ears and eyes open and take in everything you can. </p>

 

<p><br />This has been talked about a lot. There a lot of people such as yourself that want to break into the wedding field. It is hard enough to find someone willing to take you on so offering to work for no monetary compensation is probably a good idea. I would beat the bushes and don’t get discouraged. Eventually you will find someone willing to take you on. If you want it bad enough you will eventually succeed! By the way I found my assistant here last year and she is great. I interviewed a bunch before I took her on. She had no wedding experience but she had the drive and passion that I was looking for.<br /><br />Jeff<br>

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<p>Don’t give up! It is not easy to find someone willing to take you on and it may take some time. Most wedding photographers receive requests like this often. There lots of people exactly like you trying to break in the same way. If you want it bad enough you will eventually succeed .</p>

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<p >Keep it simple. Only use your very best work. Brides will only see a small portion of your booth during their visit therefore too much and too cluttered is not good. A small selection of albums and samples is better in my opinion. A couple of WOW images in nice frames and a few of your best albums. This year I am displaying a 16x20 Graphistudio album that I hope will be a big curiosity draw. Display something that no one else has. I avoid video screens or slide shows. Not many brides stop to watch a whole slideshow or presentation. Bigger and more is not always better. Have plenty of really good brochures handy. The brochure should be a real eye catcher. After the show the bride will have a bag full of brochures and cards. You want your brochure to be one of the ones that stands out gets the brides attention. You should also make sure the bride can identify or remember you from the brochure. Since she visited many booths during the show she likely forgot who she talked to and about what. A brochure that has the look and feel of your booth will help her identify and remember you and your booth when she reads the brochure a few days or a week after the show. Have paperwork handy and be prepared to book at the show if the opportunity presents itself. Don’t be disappointed with your first show. Learn from it and do better for the next show.</p>

It’s normal. I have 4 of them and use them on my 2 D200's. All of them have the play in them. So it is normal, unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it.

It appears to be an umbrella style "softbox" like the Photek Softliter or some brand of octobox.

 

Jeff