gregg_matthews
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Posts posted by gregg_matthews
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I have the same focusing issues as Darius. The "High D" original with my 6008i did not suit me for field-focusing because the image looked focused within a wide range of barrel twisting. Plus, it had no microprism aid, and, a way too-tiny split screen for critical focusing. So when I found out that some users find the "High D" to be bright with not enough bite, I bought the OEM 6003 screens thinking they'd have more "bite", plus they have a microprism ring and a larger split-image focusing aid. Well, that didn't solve my problem, nor did sending them (6003) to Brightscreen for optical 20/20 conversion. They still didn't have any bite. I did buy an accessory loupe (I can't recall the maker) that screws onto my 45 prism eyepiece and can be flipped out of view when composing. I magnifies the split-screen and microprism so I can achieve critical focusing... but what a pain to have to keep flipping it up and down between shots. Otherwise, I have noticed that I have an easier time focusing the Schneider lenses than the [Zeiss copy] EL lenses.... even 40mm. I have the EL lenses in 50, 80 and 150mm, and they are the most difficult to focus because they don't snap into focus... they creep into focus. The EL lenses are sharp on film, but I think the helicoid focus ring is too slow to give a confident image on the focus screen. Since it's been 8 years since I've looked into this, I'd love to hear if Rollei has come out with any new screens for the 6008i that will improve focus confidence.
Gregg
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I remember a lighting tool called the Venca Beep which, when connected to the sync
circuit, would produce an audible beep when the flash was recharged, alerting the
shooter that the strobe was ready to fire again. It was offered about 15 years ago and I
can't find it now that I have a use for it. Does anyone know where to find it, or how to
make one?
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Use long-ish exposure of the existing light, plus use the modeling light only
from your strobes for fill, using softboxes to help soften and blend the model
lights to the ambient light.
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Your sensor is really clean when you can eat off it.
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The most important difference between the 2 cameras mentioned is that one is a
Canon.
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I've learned the hard way that a new camera is about to be released shortly after the
rebates for the former model ends.
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Good answers, thanks for your replies.
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I'm probably one of the thousands of suckers who bought the Finney pinholebody cap (f
180 @ 50mm). I tried it on the Canon 10D but all I could get were well-exposed fuzzy
pictures. Is that all I should expect? Has anyone got good results out of this?
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Your batteries are probably too old to hold a charge. Just buy new ones.
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Deffinitly get the 1.4.....but wait to buy it second-hand when all the pros will
sell them off to get the new 50mm 1.2. I tested the 1.2 yesterday at it is sweet!
My local store is selling them for $1600... or not selling them!
I actually was dissapointed by the 1.4 as far as speed and construction. But I
was even more disspointed by the 1.8 years ago (v. 1). Oh yeah it was sharp,
but the aperture kept getting stuck, despite a Canon repair. I could have
turned it into a yo-yo when it broke down in Kalmazoo.
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I'm filing this one under " My Hopless Digital Back."
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How can I remove a repeated post I've made?
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Okay, here's the third photo. If anyone would give me tips to uploading a few
pics, I'd apreciate it.
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I didn't figure how to upload 3 pics yet. ~Gregg
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Jon, I have a complete Kowa kit for sale from Florida. Especially intriguing is
the 40mm F4, which is worth $900 or more and are very hard to find. The
other is the case, which I've never seen again anywhere, or even mentioned.
The Polaroid back, and the tripod mount that is necessary to allow back
exchanges while on the tripod is also very hard to find.
The rest of the kit, the Super66, 45 prism finder, WL, focus ring, 55, 80, and
150mm are very reasonably priced. I'm selling the whole kit for $1500.00 plus
shipping. All the glass is clean and the body is in good shape functionally and
cosmetically. The speeds are accurate, but the 55mm needs some attention
by Ross Yerks to tension its cocking mechanism. I've also got a Kowa camera
strap, a couple Kowa lens boxes, a rare Kowa 86mm skylight filter for the 55
WA, an instruction manual, and a couple rubber lens hoods. I've attached
photos for you to see the kit, and one (cropped) photo taken with the Kowa.
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Check out the Kowa Forum, you can get a great system for low money and
with it's auto dark slide feature it's faster and battery-less than most MF .
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You could buy a Kowa Super 66 with 4 lenses (40 - 150mm), waist level and
45 prism, polaroid back, and case for $1500 or less. It's a retro-looking, beefy
SLR that requires no batteries and makes beautiful negatives and slides.
Check the Kowa forum for sales. Good Luck! ~Gregg
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Just some typical folding rubber shades for WA and normal will do fine. Tiffen,
Vivitar, Kenko, to name a few.
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Great answers, especially the first one. Thanks all for your time and humor.
~Gregg
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This is my first time on this site. I'm a editorial photographer in Florida and have been
shooting Canon digital for 7 years. My extensive Rollei 6008i manual focus system has
been neglected for some time now, but I'm reluctant to sell for a small return. I'm hoping
an affordable MF digital back will be available in the near future. What are the chances
there'll ever be a full frame (and I mean 6 X 6) digital back available for the 6008i for the
equivalent cost of say, a modern dSLR? Thanks, Gregg
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Ever since I started shooting with digital cameras, I've come to use smaller
and lighter flash sources. My #1 kit these days includes a brace of Sunpak
shoe mount strobes fitted with optical slaves, powered by HV battery packs
and triggered with a radio slave. It's makes a small kit that's easy to carry and
quick to set up and shoot. Sunpaks sell for about 70 bucks, vs Canons that
are about $380. I only use the canon flashes for mouting on the body. The
sunpaks are used with various attachments and mounted on lightstands.
~Gregg
Chimera Octaplus (vs Elinchrom Octabank)
in Lighting Equipment
Posted