grunzweig photography

I've been using mine for 6 months. It's great for both transparencies and prints. It is the best bargin for quality.

Have any of the members tried to use the P67 outdoors using a shoe

flash and trying to do a fill by dialing down the flash power?

 

Ken

Thank you all for your help. I have inserted a second plastic washer

and it seems to have stopped the leak.

 

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Best regards,

 

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Ken

I have a Unicolor drum which is leaking pretty badly. I checked the gasket seal and the rubber under the seal and they look fine. Does anyone have any ideas on how to correct these leaks?

 

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Thank, Ken

Say, here is another solution. I purchased an HP5370 scanner and it came with a transparancy adaptor for up to 5X5 inch tranparancies. It works great for both transparancies and prints. Easy to use and about $300 US dollars.

 

Ken

This is a great lens. I have used this lens for my 67 work for 2 1/2 years and have been very pleased. It is my favorite lens for its pure artistic image quality. I also use the Rodenstock 50mm (35mm)and the Nikkor 150mm (4X5). From my perspective the Componon has an edge in image quality, but not necessarily sharpness. BTW, I am a b&w photographer.

 

Ken

Say, here is an easy fix. Buy a used Vivitar 283 with the accessory flash bracket. It attaches to the tripod mount on the bottom of the 67 and works like a charm.

 

KKen

I have owned a P67 for about 4 years. At first I only used it on a tripod, MLU and a hand on top, to steady it when I trip the shutter. Now, for portraits, I regularly hand hold the camera with great results. It can be braced easily for handholding, I don't use the MLU, but use the fastest shutter speeds. Don't worry, try it.

 

Ken

I use a Peak grain focuser and it works. It is important to first

make sure your focuser is adjusted for your vision. The TMAX grain

is hard to see, so focus on some detailed area of the image. That

works for me.

 

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Regards,

 

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Ken

I've used the 410 adn Gitzo combo on both the P67 and Toyo AII, just

put the camera on backwards. It is a great head and really worth the

reversal of the mount.

Try TMAX in Photographer's Formulary BW2. It does take a lot of the

problems out of development of TMAX, especially its nasty habit of

blocking-up in the highlights. I also have had great images in both

4X5 and 120 with APX 100 in Rodinal 1:50.

 

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All being said though, ready loads are reallllly nice!

 

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ken

Check out Keeble and Schuchat 261 California St., in Palo Alto. 650

327 8511

I found the 80mm a little short, and bought a 105 Schneider. This

works great on my Bess. 23IIIXL. ken

Check out www.ebay.com

 

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There is a 4

500cm for sale in Sweeden right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=55954677

 

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good luck, keng

Here's my two cents, I like Agfa APX 25 and APX 100 and have gotten

better results that the Ilford firms. I develop APX 25 in Rodinal

1:50 for 10 minutes and in Rodinal 1:100 for 15 to reduce contrast. I

always get good results following the AGFA recommended temp and

agitation. For APX 100 I use Rodinal 1:50 for 15 minutes and get

solid results. I've learned there is a lot of value at getting use to

a film and devloper combination. It makes results so much more

predictable. Personally I have so much work to do on other aspects of

my photography that once something works well, I try and work on other

areas - and there are so many other areas to work on.

 

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ken

Go for the 135 and the 55. You'll be very happy with the sharpness of

these lenses.

 

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good luck,

 

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ken

Chris, It all depends on what you are going to do with the camera. I

have the 55, 105, 135 and 165LS. I use the 135 and 55mm the most.

These are very sharp lenses. Pentax also makes a great 90 mm. For

portraits the benefit of the 165 LS is being able to synch a flash at

up to 1/500 of a sec vs. being stuck with 1/30. Given you request, I

would most likely go with the 135mm it is the most flexible and a good

comprimise.

 

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ken

A good brand is Marshall Photo-Oil Colors and Marhall Photo Pencils

are commonly used. I suggest you check out: Handcoloring

Photographs, by James A. McKinnis, from your local library. It is a

real good introduction to the processes.

 

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best to you,

 

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ken

Well, great camera - everything will be literal good and bad

exposures. You do have the gear you need. You might consider a

community college class. Or purchase a simple book on photography and

work through it. Afterall, just getting started is not so hard.

good luck and have fun, ken

Might try and buy a lens board with an extension built into it. I had

to do that for my B23xl III in order to print 5X7s with a 100 mm

lens.

 

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ken

Pentax 67 has 100 percent of image in the folding and rigid view

finders.

 

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keng

I use the folding waist level finder. Here are the advantages that I

experienced: first off, you have 100% of the image in the viewfinder

compared to about 85% in the prism finder; second, it is smaller so

you can pack down the camera in a smaller space. It does reverse the

image, so you have to get use to that. I have both the prism and the

folder and use the folder most often.

 

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keng

Help, dry mounting with seal press and colormount transfer paper a

Kodak matt color image. I set my image between two matt boards and

put it into my press at 185 deg f. The image was ruined it looks like

some of the matt board transferred to the surface, or the surface was

destroyed by the heat. Any clues? I could hinge the print to the

overmatt, but would like to cut a floating matt. I do b&w mostly and

never had this problem before.

 

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thanks

So, I didn't read the label carefully and thought I loaded APX 100 into my camera, but loaded APX 400. The roll was exposed at EI=80, does anyone have a clue on the best way to try and recover the negatives. I normally use Rodinal with Agfa films, but will take any recommendations for development tips.

 

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thanks

Good topic. What we are talking about is our creativity - how we see and how we incorporate our vision into an image. Certainly equipment can get in the way, especially if we are trying to learn to see with many different points of view (cameras, lens, filters). I've found that creative images can be made on just about any equipment by working within its frame of reference. More equipment can bring more creative choices, but not more creativity.