m.d._white

<p>I wouldn't drop a charged speedlight in the water with anyone you like in it. I forgot how many 1000s of volts they charge up to but the amperage is the killer part and kids and the elderly are real sensitive to electrical stimulation.</p>

<p>I have the same camera and flash. I bought a used 550ex and a 580ex flash. I played with it some to see how it works. It worked grat. I used the 550 on camera and the 580 off. Both using the 550 as a fill and a commander only. I watch several videos over at KelbyTraining.com by Joe MvNally and David Ziser. For less than $20 you can learn how to get the most out of using the Canon and Nikon flashes. </p>

<p>Bob, do yourself a favor spend $20 and go to KelbyTraining.com and watch the videos by David Ziser that uses speedlights, although top line ones. Canon 580exII and Quantum Q-Flash t5-dr, to light most of his wedding and portrait shots. Most of his wedding ceremony shots are shot flash free. Also, Joe McNalley has several videos and courses also showing how to light on location , light modifiers, and Speedlights for doing portrait in studio work. The 580 is higher powered than the 285 by a GN of 190 for the Canon 580s vs GN 140 for the 285's. I have learned several thigns watching the lighting videos and have started watching the Lightroom and Photoshop videos and will probably rewatch the lighting videos before my month is out.</p>

<p>Bob, All you need is a couple of the Vivitar to PC cables that come with the Flash new. If you did not get them then they can be bought off e Bay at a fair price. All you need to do is connect thos cables to the flash and your syncing device(cord, eBay triggers or Optical Triggers). If you are using the latter the Wein Peanut triggers are design to plug directly into the 285's without cables then they can be triggereed by you on camera flash.</p>

<p>The statement about not being able to do a portrait without modeling lights is by someone who needs to be led throw their photography. Basically go to where you wish to put the Speedlight (Your Main light) and what ever part of the face you see is what part will be lit. If you can see it the light will not properly expose it. Basically a two light setup would have one speedlight at your 8'clock or at your 4 O'Clock position above the camera height and above the subjects eye level and your at the 6 O'Clock position Slightly below eye level for the camera and your subject is at 12 o'clock with their nose pointed toward the camera. The other speedlight (the Fill light) will be above the camera aimed at the face set at about 1 1/2 to 2 stops lower than the Main light.</p>

<p>If you still having problems visualizing the light use a flash light and illuminate the subject with it from the same height and location as the light you wanting to see the light from.</p>

<p>Get yourself some Canon 5x0ex flashes and then watch David Ziser and Joe McNalley's videos over at KelbyTraining.com they will teach you how to light properly and what equipment you really need. Joe's classes are using Nikon Speedlights where as Davis's use a Canon 580 and a Quantum T5 which can be substituted by another 580 or get a 550 and use it as the on camera flash. Just moving it off the camera is half the battle learning what to do with it is the other half.</p>

<p>Get yourself some Canon 5x0ex flashes and then watch David Ziser and Joe McNalley's videos over at KelbyTraining.com they will teach you how to light properly and what equipment you really need. Joe's classes are using Nikon Speedlights where as Davis's use a Canon 580 and a Quantum T5 which can be substituted by another 580 or get a 550 and use it as the on camera flash. Just moving it off the camera is half the battle learning what to do with it is the other half.</p>

<p>Get yourself some Canon 5x0ex flashes and then watch David Ziser and Joe McNalley's videos over at KelbyTraining.com they will teach you how to light properly and what equipment you really need. Joe's classes are using Nikon Speedlights where as Davis's use a Canon 580 and a Quantum T5 which can be substituted by another 580 or get a 550 and use it as the on camera flash. Just moving it off the camera is half the battle learning what to do with it is the other half.</p>

<p>I am not sure about the ISO change but what it gives you is one additional stop of light.</p>

<p>My first 35mm was an Argus and my Grandfather who help me get started in photography left me his Argus Camera. I thin I have the adapter on it for a regular flash to Argus but would have to see..</p>

<p>My first 35mm was an Argus and my Grandfather who help me get started in photography left me his Argus Camera. I thin I have the adapter on it for a regular flash to Argus but would have to see..</p>

<p>My first 35mm was an Argus and my Grandfather who help me get started in photography left me his Argus Camera. I thin I have the adapter on it for a regular flash to Argus but would have to see..</p>

<p>Portfolio and Lightroom 2.2</p>

<p>Better off getting a Lastolite panel and defuser cover and set the light up so that it covers the subject with even defused light. I saw this technique in a video by Joe McNalley on KelbyTraining.com. I got me a 42x42 Lastolite panel being delivered next week with the covering about a week behind.</p>

<p>I have two eBay 16x16 softboxes that I used with my Vivitar 285's in wide angle without the 28mm filter. I shot it at every power pointed at the lens looking for a center hotspot or nothing along the edges and it was perfectly lit from edge to edge. It had a inter baffle which I believed prevented the hot spot and help defuse the light.</p>

<p> I just checked and the 580's GN is higher than the 285 so It should still lite very well using these softboxes as I just got my 580exII and waiting on a 580EX. I been thinking on getting a 12x16 to use also. The eBay softboxes are cheaper and if you have the Photoflex brackets for their XS litebox you can connect the strobe up to most speed rings. The brackets are less than $30 from B&H. I just received two before Xmas.</p>

<p>I have two eBay 16x16 softboxes that I used with my Vivitar 285's in wide angle without the 28mm filter. I shot it at every power pointed at the lens looking for a center hotspot or nothing along the edges and it was perfectly lit from edge to edge. It had a inter baffle which I believed prevented the hot spot and help defuse the light.</p>

<p> I just checked and the 580's GN is higher than the 285 so It should still lite very well using these softboxes as I just got my 580exII and waiting on a 580EX. I been thinking on getting a 12x16 to use also. The eBay softboxes are cheaper and if you have the Photoflex brackets for their XS litebox you can connect the strobe up to most speed rings. The brackets are less than $30 from B&H. I just received two before Xmas.</p>

Well I like most digital photographers have thousands and thousands of digital

images which I am trying to organize. I did research on the web and bought

several books on digital workflow and all. Some like iView for cataloging

their images. I played woth the trial for a while and didn't really like it.

Before I started formalizing my workflow(before I learned what needed to be

done) I was using ACDSee Photo Manager and never really like it's cataloger

because it writes all edited data to the database and not to the file. I been

playing with Lightroom for awhile and like it but I do not trust it becasue

when I imported all my images in to it it seemed to have a memory leak(Which

if it was I hope was fixed before going final) because the more I worked in it

the slower it got. The mor eimages the slower it got. I wanted a real

database since I have database training in development and management so I

chose Portfolio and while I am using it I still have the same complaint that I

had with ACDSee is that all image metadata information is wriotten to the

database and not to the file. I hope someone knows of a image management

system that automatically updates the information in the file as well as the

database. ie when I add a keeyword add it to the file and then update the

database based on the file info. That way if I have a db crash or change

programs or other applications can see that change.

 

I have two probl;ems that I have noticed two things lacking with Portfolio

that requires me to use other applications to do tasks in my workflow. One,

is during the slide show you are not able to rate the images, or I am not able

to with the auto setting and in the manual setting it is not that easy. And

the other is not able to batch convert raw files to photoshop psd format, The

lack of file formats availble is a handicap. Also, another feature would be a

version control so if you really screwed up an image you could go back to

another version. This program is suposed to work hand in hand with photoshop

so why not use the some of the filemats that adobe created like psd and dng.

and use the version cue information. Background converting would be nice that

way you can work with other files while it is converting images.

 

So what image tracking program do you use and recomment?