michael_mermagen1

Wow... just got this lens at a ritzy estate auction. Did not win the body, so as much as I would love to get into the S series, it's not realistic considering my level of skills and budget. Thinking to sell...

I doubt that it has had the AF updated as the lens has not been used for almost 5 years according to the family. I read that the update is a rather recent offering from Leica.

I'm open to chat about a good sale price to an interested buyer. Condition is very clean. Only looks like some minor surface dust on glass.. no cleaning marks, but also no filter.

Thanks!

Mike

sometimes the software is picky about the file extension. Do the files have a .jpg at the end or something else?

Mike

I believe that the 75mm lens for your Bronica is like a 50mm lens on the Voigtlander. If you want wider, you may want to look at 28mm and 35mm focal lengths. One idea might be to travel with 2 lenses, a 50mm (like the Nokton 50mm F1.5) and a 28mm (either the 28mm F3.5 or the Ultron F1.9), one for standard and portrait and the other for landscape/scenery etc.

Mike

I'm also wondering what angle your bounce flash was set to?

Basically, I'm on the same page with what Ashley is saying. The central part of your photo is correctly exposed and fortunately, not overexposed. Issues with how the flash was bounced (angle), flash power, light falloff from the lens at 18mm, are just a few things that make your photo appear underexposed. After corrections, the photo looks great and as if no flash were used, which is what you ultimately want to achieve.

Mike

When I first got my AF360, I too thought that it underexposed. After putting it to use and learning how to use it, I realize now that it does not underexpose. First of all, all of the shots that seemed underexposed had areas of white (ie,wall, couch, shirt, or towel) that were perfectly exposed, thus causing darker areas of the photo to underexpose. Once I became aware of white surfaces (which will reflect the light from the flash back to the camera the most) and either recompose or adjust the flash output accordingly, my photos no longer suffered from the problem. I wish that P-TTL could read your mind and know exactly how you want your photo to look, but it cannot and therefore does take some experience and skill to master the results.

Mike

I've never used "Live View" on a DSLR, but I thought the advantage might be in tricky exposure situations or tricky white balance situations, neither of which the optical viewfinder would offer any input.

Mike

Mine did not physically fit well on the Cl. It was difficult to attach the lens and there was some resistance. I felt like it might damage the cl camera.

Mike

Mine is smooth too...

Mike

Receive 2 of mine in 4 weeks.

Mike

I adjusted levels and desaturated, since there wasn't much color in there...

Mike

Night time photography is not easy and takes some experience and often requires manual controls of the camera. Exposure is very tricky as dark areas may make the camera think that you desire to expose them fully, and bright areas may not allow exposure for detail in the darker areas of the scene. You may have to do your exposure manually. As far as auto focus, many good points have been made. The camera is not designed to focus in dark areas, nor on any area lacking contrast. So, you either have to lock the focus on a contrasty subject or use manual focus. Experiment and find the best settings for the type of result you need.

Mike

Ryan,

You may want to look at the K10D, as it has an extra programmable button to assist with exposure on the older MF lenses.

Mike

It wouldn't matter to me what kind of body Canon comes out with, because I like the pentax lenses. Both the new and the old. To agree with Justin, I have recently aquired the 28mm F3.5 M, and it's shocking how good this lens is and how beautifully made it is. I feel better spending $50-75 on the Superb Pentax 28mm F3.5 than spending 10x that much for a large plastic Canon lens. But that's just me...

Mike

The 3200 ISO crops on PopPhotos pics are impressive!

Mike

SR might be a gimmick, but it is the reason I sold my Canon Rebel XT and got the K10D. I was using a Zeiss 85mm Planar lens on the Canon and couldn't hand hold anything at slower shutter speeds. The photos were useless. With the K10D and 77mm F1.8, I can get the low light shots. This is especially useful if they are candids... it takes me at least a minute to go get a tripod, set it up, attach the camera etc etc.

Tripods, of course are great for studio work or landscapes... neither which really demand SR.

You want SR turned off when using the tripod, because as I understand it the SR is a moving part system and the purpose of the tripod is not to move.

You have to re enter focal length on manual lenses whenever you turn the camera off/on. You can choose a focal length other than the one you are actually using if you wish to experiment with the results. I'm not really sure how critical the system is since I haven't tested it that way.

I love the K10D and bought 2 at the sale price of $530 after rebate.

Mike

Rose,

There are no threads on my lens hood for the 43mm... I use a 49mm filter and the hood screws into that.

Mike

Bill,

I did the same thing you are thinking of. Now, I have several K1000's and just because they are inexpensive and plentiful, doesn't mean they are not beautifully built cameras, reliable and made to last. I also have an MX which is cool because it's smaller. My lust for having Pentax film cameras brought me to ending up with an LX. I had to get one to see what the fuss was about and why it's so expensive. To be honest, I can't figure out why (at least for me). Since I have no need to have a camera with interchangeable prisms and it's various other accessories, I think the value of the LX is low for me.

If you want to satisfy your urge to own a classic Pentax, you're in luck. The K1000 is a classic and a wonderful vintage K mount machine that can be had from $25-$100.

Mike

Peeing on sensor,

not as good as,

yellow filter on lens.

Confucius

What irks me about the K100D is that I can't change metering mode withing going in to the menu. The auto white balance isn't quite as good especially indoors.

Mike

The 4 shots you posted look correct for the technique used. Very little ground is covered by the on board flash, so it is not for use in this situation (as others have stated). Shot #2, you accidentally focussed on something in the background, so the foreground subjects are not fuzzy due to shutter speed, but simply not "in focus". If you rely on the camera to choose the focusing point... then It may not choose the best one. I took the below photo in manual focus mode, because the hummingbird is too fast and too small for me to try to capture using auto-focus.

Mike