diver1
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Posts posted by diver1
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<p>Well I've just renewed my enthousiasme for getting a TLR, a Photo.net member in my area sent me an email regarding a Minolta Autocord in good condition he would like to sell me, I'll just have to force my brain to work with the reversed viewscreen, I did my research on TLRs, though the reversed image was not something I had expected nor heard anyone mention, aside from my use of a Holga camera I am a newbie with the medium format. Thanks everyone.</p>
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<p>Well I think I'll abandon TLRs all together, unless someone can drop one in my hand that's in top shape and if I can also reconfigure my brain to work with a reversed viewscreen, I think the Mamiya 645E would be a better idea.</p>
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<p>Well I'm not too crazy about working with a reversed image, just that makes me want to change my mind about getting a TLR.</p>
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<p>Oh also the the viewfinder screen displayed the image inversed from left to right, is that normal on a Yashica? A Mamiya C33 I checked out a few weeks ago did not do this.</p>
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<p>I've just recieved a Yashica 124 MAT G which I ordered last week from a reputable store in Canada and to my dismay the camera is not at all in the condition advertised, camera is filthy and the lens is fogged up on the inside! and the God damn shutter was left cocked!!! I just returned the piece of shit in the mail so I could get my refund back, boy am I so damn disappointed! now since buying a TLR in my area (which I can inspect for myself) is next to impossible I have no choice but to order online, anyone know of a good place to order online? can I trust Ebay? God I'm so pissed off!</p>
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<p>Yes the Lubitel is way overpriced, I'll get either the Mamiya or the Yashica, thanks for the input guys.</p>
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<p>I'm very tempted to purchase an old Mamiya or Yashica TLR, now with the risk I'm running in unknowingly buying a defective unit should I for about the same amount of money instead get a brand new Lubitel 166+? any feedback? thanks.</p>
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<p>Thanks guys, I've just tried as Dan suggests and the results are good.</p>
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<p>I've been trying to scan for the first time with my new epson V500, I know that there are too many ways of scanning a negative, I just want to get the fullest scan out of my negative, resolution and document size wise so I can continue the same workflow as I do with my downloaded digital raw files, in the professional mode I'm hitting a wall here with the resolution and document size section, is there a simple recipe here for what I'm asking for? thanks.</p>
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<p>I have just purchased an Epson V500 scanner and I'm wondering if I can scan medium format film without the holder so I can get all of the frame edge of the negative?</p>
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<p>Luck does happen, you just have to be able to recognizie it when it happens and jump on it before that special moment disappears, and that applies not just to nature and landscape but to every other photographic genre as well.</p>
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<p>I just got one last question, when scanning negatives should I have the scanner software correct for exposer or would I be better off correcting that with Photoshop?</p>
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<p>Thanks for the input guys, so far I think the Epson perfection V500 or the V600 would be the best choice for the amount of money I plan to spend on this, thanks.</p>
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<p>I've just recently started to shoot medium format with a Holga camera, I'm already fed up of photo lab scans, they never give me a scan that's bigger than a 7 mega pixel image and if I want a higher resolution scan they charge 15.00$ per photo! I now want to get a scanner but I don't want to spend the cash for a high end model, keep in mind that I'm shooting with a Holga and not a Hasselblad or a Mamiya so the best quality scanner is not what i'm looking for, just a model that does a good enough scan at a decent price, any suggestions? thanks.</p>
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<p>I'm quite new at using a Holga camera, I've just shot a roll of Ilford HP5 plus and I find the contrast is not as high as many sample pics I've seen on the net, I hear that painting the frame mask flat black can help to get more contrast, can anyone here confirm if that's valid? thanks.</p>
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<p>Thank you everyone, thank you Lex for commenting on my latest photos.</p>
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<p>Thank you everyone, thank you Lex for commenting on my latest photos.</p>
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<p>Thank you for responding, I use photoshop CS5 and LR 2.7</p>
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<p>As you can see with the included pic the model's legs do not have the same skin tones as the rest of her body, does anybody know a simple way of correcting this without affecting the texture and detail of the skin?</p><div>
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<p>I just read on the back of an Epson ink cartridge package that it should be used up within six months after opening, now does the ink really start to degrade after six months or is this just BS just to get you to buy new cartridges even when they are still half full?</p>
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<p>Well at least the tripod mount looks ok, sorry for the dark bit of humour there, wether if it was a Nikon or Canon NO CAMERA could survive a fall like that. My sympathies, I really hope your home insurance can cover your loss, best of luck.</p>
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<p>I've checked out the Argyll software and it does look really techy, after I lowered the brightness I compared my prints to what I get on screen and everything looks exactly the same, lowering it doesn't seem to have changed anything that I can tell other than the brightness which was too high, I'll leave it so for now and I'll make a few tests in my next calibration, thanks.</p>
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<p>Yeah I noticed that there was no option in the set-up menu to adjust these values.</p>
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<p>thanks Howard, I've already lowered the brightness and retried the calibration but the calibrator just bumps the brightness back up, since it's a new Mac and since it's my first time using the spyder3 Pro I have no Idea if this normal?</p>
What 1 filter should I get?
in Black & White Practice
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