ken_dunn

I have an old Baush and Lomb Ballomatic 755 projector that I need

trays for. Does anyone know of a shop that deals in old projectors

that may have some. Thanks in advance.

Kenny

I think this is very near where you are going to be. I plan on doing this myself in the spring. Be sure and hit whitewater falls, although it will be knid of barren in winter.

http://www.people.virginia.edu/~bcb5a/waterfalls.html

I belive in the current issue of Outdoor Photographer someone did an article on wolves at Yellowstone. A couple of tips I remember was "look for tourists looking at them", and "watch for nervous elk". I just skimmed it.

Thanks Scott, Thats it!!!

I will be in the Aspen area for a couple of days of shooting around

the 25th of Sept and was looking for some nice out of the way places.

I will hit Maroon Bells one morning for sure and will travel the 4x4

roads south of Aspen toward Gunnison also. Do any locals care to let

me in on there hot spots. Also any color spotters in the area let me

know where it is best (arriving Denver morn 24th leaving 28th, will

check my mail again on the 23rd). Thought I might hit RMNP a day

also. I have seen photgraphs of a canyon that had and old mill or

camp house on stilts looked to be ready to fall in the gorge. Some

locals last year told me it was in the area, but they were not sure

where. This picture was on the wall in several stores in the area. I

know this is pretty vauge, but I am sure someone knows the place I am

talking about. I would love to get to that gorge. Small cascades are

some of my favorite shooting. I have heard that off 82 South of

Aspen on Lincoln Creek is good for this. Thanks to all.

I have seen the moonbow at Cumberland Falls and I did not even get my camera out. It is very faint, I did not even see it until someone pointed it out to me. There are many wonderful things in that area to shoot, but the moonbow, IMO, is not one of them. Hike to Dog Slaughter Falls or Bark Camp Creek. I know we have got off the question, I just didn't want someone to come a long way to photograph the moonbow (lucky for me I live nearby).

If you spot meter a bright area near then sun and then open up a stop (or slow the shutter speed a stop) this should get you pretty close. Bracket anything this high in contrast even after you get pretty good. I blew a great sunset last year because I did not play it safe and bracket. After shooting dozens I thought I knew it all. You never stop learning.

I had one for a Mamiya 645 and I never liked it. I felt I could do better with the stock screen. Maybe they work better for others, but I sold mine on Ebay.

Answering Pats question about using diopters with MF, I have used them with a 150 and 300mm for my Mamiya 645. The results are excellent. I get about 1:1 with the 300 and a Nikon 6T.

The only way you are going to know if youi like it or not is try it.

I would venture to guess that these answers have confused more than

helped (I know they confused me and I have used it before, and I liked

it fine).

I always like to now how the water is flowing in the streams in

locations I am going to be traveling to (you can't photograph

waterfalls in a drought) and just stumbled upon this website that was

very helpful. Thought I would pass it on.

http://water.usgs.gov/dwc/national_map.html

I think Cambridge Camera is the importer for these, so you may have to buy from out of the country to get them. I have heard the bodies are weak, but the lenses are top notch. I know there is a service company that that lists in the back of Shutterbug that also sells them new, but I would bet that they are a part of Cambridge. They were nice when I spoke to them on the phone about a lens and adapter for my Mamiya 645. I think it was Seymours Exakta (212)691-7799. Pay by credit card.

Most deer species will be going into rut at that time. I would guess any of the parks that are known for their deer or elk would be nice. Great Smokies is my local NP. There is no shortage of whitetail at Cades Cove, but there will be no shortage of people that weekend either.

I have a 330 with a 65 and 105. I think the lenses are great, especially the contrast. I remember when I first got this camera a few months ago, the guy that does my processing could not belive the color saturation in the first couple of rolls (I had been shooting Mamiya 645, and mostly still do). If anyone thinks I have nothing to compare it to I have a Linhof 4x5 with a modern 90 Super Angulon and a Fujinon 240.

I have an extra 120 insert for Mamiya 645 and need to trade for a 220.

Mine is in good shape. Anyone interested?

Marke- I think you would be better off sticking with the 3401. I have one and it is pretty nice, but it takes quite a bit of time to set up some shots. I am sure the side arm clamp would be much harder. I am 6'1 also and I can shoot almost straight up without the center column up. You should avoid the center column whenever possible. The only time I use it is if I am shooting over weeds or something. Also the 3401 is not bad to hike with. I have managed to put in 11 mile days with it in my hands the whole time and full backpack and I am not in that great of shape!

Here is a cheap way to get some really nice MF macro. Get an old TLR Mamiya (be sure to get a model that gives exposure correction for close up, I think all do, but not sure) and a paramender and a 65mm lens. You can focus from infinity to nearly 1:1 (with my 330 anyway) with this setup. It is a bit of trouble using the paramender, but if you want easy you have to spend some $$$. Line counters will growl about the resolution using a lens like that for that purpose and how better 35mm would give the same for the same size print, but I think most people would find the results quite satisfactory. If you shop around you can find this setup for as little as $400 (I did). There a couple of advantages to this system over some. No mirror to worry about and no focal plane shutter to shake. Borrow one and give it a try. Kenny

I have a Super Angulon 90 f/8 that I am having the shutter overhauled

currently. I needed it bad so I bought me another. WHen I get it

back I would make you a good deal if you are interested or may trade

on something. Let me know.

Ken Dunn

As someone else pointed out, if you want to do serious backpacking, get a real backpack and stuff your camera bag in it. My back was out two years trying to backpack with a photo backpack. I bought an REI Wonderland and stuffed it full of goodies and my back thanks me everytime I use it. A little less handy, but after my first trip (10 + miles) my legs were the only thing tired. After 3 miles with my Tenba backpack I could not stand straight for about 10 minutes after stopping. There is so much adjustment to the REI, it is very nice. I think someone that makes camera packs should study backpacks.

I have used the 6T on a 70-210 and you can get darn close to 1:1. Mostly I use it on a 300mm Mamiya 645 lens now and it is also 1:1 (about). The quality is excellent, as good as anything else I have shot without the diopter. On wide to normal lenses they don't help near as much. Extension tubes work better for high magnification on wider lenses. There is a trade off, though. With the diopter the depth of field is nothing at 1:1 (using the 200mm), the tubes seem to give better DOF, but eat light. Like everything else in life it is a trade off. I use the diopter for insects and the tubes for flowers (actually I use a bellows now). Just be sure you are flat on if using the diopter. Have fun and always use a tripod, a cable release, and mirror lock-up.

I sometimes use a tiffen ultra contrast filter. This would allow you to expose for the tress and should still get detail in the dark areas. If you are using big glass it may be a problem getting one to fit.

I would venture to guess that it would take thousands of dollars worth of test equipment to tell the difference. Either should yield results satisfactory for anyone.

I hit upon a dry spell about this time every year. Between the last

heath blooms of June and when the deer go into rut in September I have

a hard time finding anything to shoot here in the Southern

Appalachians (Cant go far from home). The skys are usually to hazy

and all the creeks are about dry and the only color is green.

Somebody throw some suggestions my way. Thanks, Kenny

Igor- It is hard to say what you can get for a photo in that kind of publication. If they are local agency running off a few thousand you may only get $50-$100 for each. If they are running off a few hundred thousand you may be able to get $1000 or more each. What ever you do don't take a token amount ($20 or so). I have sold mostly to calendar companies and get anywhere from $200- $600 for the use of an image. Postcards I can only get $50 or so for 4000, but they are great people and give me a bunch to send in my fliers, and I figured it up if they sell all 4000 postcards they only get about $500, and they have to pay printing out of that so I can't really ask for more. ALot of people think you get big bucks out of selling images, but for most of us it is a moderate amount. Ask them what they intend to pay and start from there. They may offer much more to start than you had in mind. Maybe you could trade out for a free vacation somewhere and promise them more photos!

I have been using this stuff for about a year now and really love it.

I had been using Ilford MG 4, but this is so much easier to work

with. One test exposure and I can usually nail the rest.