Fotos53

I was automatically charged for a renewal without notification, and CHARGED WITHOUT AUTHORIZATION. I want my credit card deleted from your account, and I want the unauthorized charge reversed. I also want my membership in Photo.net cancelled. I do want this kind of membership at all.

 

All I can find is my account was I charged and there is no way to cancel it at all. This is no way to run a site at all.

 

Please let me know when this was done!

<p>I'm thinking about buying a film Pentax 645, either the 645 or 645N plus some lenses but I'm wondering who repairs these cameras? I'm sure Pentax doesn't anymore because of the age and parts issues. There has be a couple of independent camera repair shops in the US that does basic to complex repairs and CLA of the 645 camera and lenses.<br /><br />Do you have any suggestions of shops? Thank you in advance for you help! <br /><br />Just a note in passing...I used to use a Pentax 645 professionally and my clients loved it. I think the reason is that they could actually see the chromes or contact sheets plus the quantity of enlargements was out of this world compared to 35mm.<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>To Chip...thanks for your comment! </p>

<p>Since as you stated so many of my choices run counter to "prevailing wisdom". My camera and lenses choices are not just different or weird, they're carefully thought out of what's the right the equipment for me to use. </p>

<p>Here's my response to the focusing points being spread out on a D2Xs or D2Hs and not being so centered...</p>

<p>How many times have you been in a situation where you wanted the focusing at the edges of the frame and not the center? I don't like to lock-up focus and recompose, it's takes up to much time and what if the subject moves or you're shooting a long lens wide open and the depth of field is a couple of inches at best. So if you picked a single focusing point at the edge of frame...the camera will continue to auto-focus for you and the frames will be sharp.</p>

<p>It couldn't be easier to do and that's why I like the points to be all around the frame.</p>

<p>Okay I've read all your responses or opinions on the above question and I thank you so much. So it's my turn now...<br /> <br /> To all that suggested the Nikon D3 I didn't think about it that much. I do know that a couple of pro photographers buddies that shoot the D3 and really like it a lot. They say it's much better the the D700. I didn't really think that much about the D300 but I'm giving a lot of thought to it but to the D300s right now. I do want two to use two of the same kind of bodies not different but the same.<br /> <br /> I know the lens kit is costly but I want the range and speed of it. Btw..I know that the 18-200 is not a great lens but I wanted it for it's range. It's sort of one-stop lens for carrying around where the others are just big and heavy and I don't need the speed. That kit is still in use by a ton of pro photographers, they want it for it's speed plus range without carrying the the kitchen sink with them. You also get a lot of options in the field that kit. I also want only Nikon lenses too, they go on the same way, everything is about in the same place on them plus if you have to get them repaired just about everybody repairs Nikon.<br /> <br /> So some of you who looked at my tumblr page "thank you" but I didn't post it for hits. I just wanted you to know what I shoot, not all but some of it.<br /> <br /> Also I have never been asked in about 25 years of working what kind of camera I use by editors or clients, they don't care at all. They just want to see the images you shot for them, did you get what they needed and did you get them to them before deadline without a lot of drama.<br /> <br /> I have used both Canon and Nikon gear in the past...I have switched 3 times back and forth over the years because there was a need for me to do so. Right now the reason for the switch is for the Canon focusing problems, I'm tried of them. Nikon used to have a problem with noise at higher ASAs but not now.<br /> <br /> I happen to just like the older Nikon D2 body styles but I'll give the D3 and D300s a closer look but not to the D7000 it's not what I want but it's a great camera btw.<br /> <br /> Lastly your responses and opinions have been most useful. If you don't ask the question...you'll never know, so I did.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi<br>

<br /> This what I'm thinking about buying or doing. I do have reasons as weird as it sounds...<br /> I'm want to buy a bunch of Nikon gear and I think it will cover just about everything that I want to do with it. Some of it is old, (cameras) and the rest is I think current gear. All of it will be brought used but in great shape and if it needs a CLA or service I'll get it done, no problem.<br>

<br /> Cameras:<br /> 1 Nikon D2Xs and 1 Nikon D2Hs. I know about the noise at higher ASAs and there's newer gear out there but for me I feel that they will be perfect. I won't shoot at anything higher than 800 ASA unless I have to and I know about the noise and I'll deal with it then. I like the design and operating speed of pro bodies, the others (pro amateur cameras) don't cut it for me. I really like the fact that the focusing points are spread out over the frame not grouped in a central area where it's hard to set the focusing where you really want it at times. I'll only shoot raw unless there's a reason to shoot jpeg, which is usually working with a group of photographers and it's an event, you're on deadline where speed is everything. I don't think I'll be doing that much anymore. Btw..I used to own 2 Nikon D2H bodies and I though they were the best digital cameras I ever owned and used, so tough, so fast and easy to use.<br>

<br /> Lenses:<br /> 17-55 f2.8, 18-200 f3.5-5.6, 70-200 f2.8 VR the first one, 1.4 tele-converter, 35 f2 or 35 1.8 DX lens, and I'm not sure a 12-24 f4, maybe, plus either a SB800 or SB900 with the battery pack. These lens are all Nikon either full frame or DX lens. I'm just thinking about the 200-400 f4 or a 300 f2.8 AFI, not really sure at this point. I don't know if I'll really have a use for the long lens or not.<br>

<br /> Now I'm wondering about what you think about all of this: The good and bad...Your comments and your thoughts will be most welcome. I'm sure I'll find lots of stuff I didn't even think about.<br>

<br /> Note: I'm not made of money but I think this set of tools will be easy to use and give me the results that I want.<br>

<br /> This is my tumblr page if you're interested in what I have shot in the past.<br>

<br /> http://johnrobertmiller.tumblr.com/<br>

<br /> Thanks very much for your opinions and comments in advance!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>That's good question that you asked, the 5D or 1DS...<br>

Here's my take on it, I have played with but never used the 5D and from what I read and hear it's a great camera but the focusing is slow but if you're shooting something isn't moving much who cares. The camera isn't as tough as the 1DS but it's better at higher ISO and lighter without the drive on it. Still all in all a great camera!<br>

Now the 1DS is a camera I use all the time for professional work! I just did a national assignment with it last Sunday. Used it with my Norman studio strobes and 2 lenses plus a light meter. The images that I got out the equipment were great. They have the look of scanned Kodakchrome film, very nice and big enough for my needs and my editor needs. <br>

The focusing on the 1DS is very fast, the camera is built tough and even today I think the files are big enough for most everything. Canon built a fine camera in the original 1DS. The dust isn't a problem for me I have the camera professionally serviced/cleaned every year. <br>

The cons on the 1DS is that it's heavy, it likes batteries, but you can buy a couple more so that problem is solved, and if you have to look at your LCD every time you take a picture than you'll be disappointed in the LCD. The LCD isn't by today's standards, not very good. If you just want to check out it for an idea what you shot it's great. Btw the images are great when you open them up on your computer, they look so real.<br>

Whatever camera you decide to buy and use...make sure you get it serviced and cleaned! They're both pretty old and who knows what kind of care it's had in the past.<br>

Just my 2 cents worth!</p>

<p>Since I asked this question...here's what I finally did!<br /> <br /> I send all my equipment, cameras and lens in for a CLA and decided to just use it and keep it. There's nothing wrong with it and I love the files from the 1DS. The 1D Mark II are fast focusing with good sized files. It all works for me. My final thoughts are to keep it repaired, clean and not worry about upgrading anymore.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your input and help!</p><div></div>

<p>I'm thinking about selling my two Canon 1D Mark II bodies plus a Canon 1DS body and buying two used Canon 1D Mark III bodies to replace them. I realized that I'll have to have the used bodies serviced. I'm wondering if this is a good idea of not, anything newer is not in the my budget. I don't want a 7D, 50D or 40D bodies. I owned a 50D and a 40D in the past and didn't like the feel of them, the images were fine, they're just weren't for me. I do want the same bodies to match each other. I'll use them for sports and everything else that comes along. I'm interested in hearing your thoughts and opinions on this and if you actually own a 1D Mark III, I would love to hear your input. Thanks in advance for all your help.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone who helped out! <br /> Here's what I received from Epson, many thanks to Epson for their help on a old but great printer! This should help anyone with the same problem! You can download it from Epson's support page.</p>

<p>Dear JOHN,<br /><br />Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson Stylus Photo 1280. It is my pleasure to respond to your inquiry.<br /><br />This is the driver you want to use for your computer. Disregard the version numbers it works on 10.4.11<br /><br />Printer Driver v1.9aA<br />PowerPC Macs with OS X (v10.1.3 - v10.3.5)<br />epson11269.dmg - 6.2MB - posted on 10/20/04</p>

<p>Where can you download the print driver for a Epson 1280 printer? I need a driver for a Power PC G4 Mac running 10.4.11, the computer runs great with no problems. I went to the Epson store to download the driver and it's not there at all. It seems that everything else is from the latest Mac driver software to the old OS 8 system. Nothing for a Power PC print driver running 10.4.11 except easy print, which I downloaded and installed already. I don't have the original CD for the Epson anymore either. It used to be not a problem, the drivers were there and all you have to do is download and install them. <br /> <br /> Please don't me to go the Epson support store....it's not there for a Power PC running 10.4.11. I have always liked Epson equipment because the support is always there. I understand the whys (money) of not updating old system software.<br /> <br /> Your ideas or thoughts are most welcome!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just a thought...you might search the forums at ModelMayhem.com for your answer. I'm sure that it's in there somewhere. ModelMayhem is the biggest site of it's kind for photographers and models. I think it also has the most traffic. I'm sure that you have heard of it and if you haven't you should know about it.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I just have ask this question, What social networking on the internet do you do, that actually work? <br /><br />The reason I'm asking is I'm trying to figure out what to use and what not to use. I guess I'm old school and I remember writing the letters for a portfolio showing (your sales pitch) to art directors, editors and the like. It was easy to do and almost always produced results for me, in other works paying jobs. <br /><br />Now I'm lost in what to do, I've heard that Facebook works some photographers and for others it's a waste of time for them. I'm on Facebook. I'm not sure of the results yet. You have to lots of friends in the hope of finding a paying customer, not sure if it's worth the effort. <br /><br />I'm also on Flickr, haven't really put much into it yet. What I have learned <br />is that it's got great traffic but there's a lot of crap posted. Sorry I'm so blunt but if you looked around on Flickr, you'd find out it's true, but there's also some great photography. You just have to look for it. <br /><br />I'm also in a stock agency and I've done well for only having 17 images in my account. I'm always making sales. <br /><br />I have my own website and having a website is like having a business card, you have to have one to be taken seriously in this business. <br /><br />Almost all my business has been been work of mouth or repeat business. or somebody knows me and recommends me for the job. I just got a recommendation from somebody I knew in the past and the job was from Washington DC. I got the paying job. <br /><br />Now I'm wondering what works for you and what doesn't work. I want to narrow down my efforts to some that actually work. I'm open to your comments, suggestions and your opinions. I'll post what I'm going to do and not do in another post in a few days for all to see. <br /><br />Thanks in advance for your help.</p>

<p>Is anyone still shooting 35mm film with a Canon EOS 1V HS? Please let me know if you are. Why are you still shooting film in this day and age of instant digital images?</p>

<p>I thinking about buying one because it's been too long not shooting with film for me. I long to go back to getting the film processed and opening that little box of chromes and laying them on a light table and looking for the good ones.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your opinions, thoughts, and views.</p>

<p>Here's a link to a new online landscape magazine. They even have some Pentax 67 images in it. Looks good so far and it's <br>

for landscape photography only. Link as follows:<br>

http://landscapephotographymagazine.com/2011/02/issue-1/</p>

<p> </p>

<p><br /> I think the Canon 1DS Mark I is a great camera. I love the way the files look, they have a special look, almost like you were shooting film. The focusing is second to none. The built of the camera is like a tank, waterproof, dust proof, can take a knock , etc. The camera likes batteries, no big deal buy a couple more. Battery Barn is great place to buy from...I buy my batteries there. No connection to them, just great service and a great battery for a fair price. I think it starts to get noisy at ASA of 400 or higher, not bad but noisy. But if you're shooting landscapes, who cares. The viewfinder is great, big and bright and clear, the controls are just in the right places. Now remember this is from someone who owns and uses one all the time. I really like the way it handles and the way the files look in raw. I only shoot raw BTW. Once you handle a 1DS mark body, it doesn't matter which one...you'll love the way it all comes together. You'll see why pros love them. I can make beautiful prints with a 1DS file on my Epson printer at home. Canon will still service them so what's not to like? Great camera! I hope this helps.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a scanner to scan b/w and color 8x10 film negatives. I'm not looking to make huge enlargements, just a 8x10 contacts and a little bigger to a 11x14 prints. If I want to go bigger I'll get a drum scan. I don't care if it's an old scanner, I'll get a old Mac computer to run it all. I think I already have some of the older software on the bookcase stored away. I don't want to make 8x10 contacts in the darkroom. My darkroom (I haven't used it much the last couple of years) is being make into a storage room with some space set aside to process 8x10 film. I've saved my Jobo just for this purpose. Getting 8x10 film processed is costly, so I'll do it myself, either color or b/w doesn't matter to me. The scanner doesn't have to the best or latest, or fastest...just that it gets the job done. All I want is something that is cost efficient, does a good job and reliable. Your opinions, thoughts, advice and suggestions are most welcome. Thanks in advance. </p>

<p>Michael: If it was me I'll have Nikon do a CLA on the D1X. They'll give you an estimate before doing it. I don't think it would cost over $200. My reasoning is you'll have a correctly working D1X just serviced and ready to be used. If you buy another D1X or any other used camera, it could be needing a CLA also. You could use the camera for awhile and just never know when it's going to fail. The D1X is really a nice camera. It's a Nikon pro model camera with good metering, great auto-focusing, produces good color, built to take a beating plus it's got 1/500 flash sync, which is nice if you ever need it. Buy a couple of extra batteries (Battery Barn is a great place to buy from) for it and you're set. I wouldn't attempt to do it yourself. Pay the extra money and get it done right. You could use it awhile (after the CLA) and start saving money enough to buy the D2X someday or whatever you want. You'll get good resale on the D1X. Sometimes it's better to get the CLA and be done with it and go take some great photos. You won't have to worry about the camera. It's just my opinion. BTW I have one and use it for assignment work when I need to. John</p>

<p>I came across this link to a current review of an older Nikon D1X with references to the Kodak DCS line of digital cameras. It's a good read with information from someone who actually uses one still. This review is often funny and to the point, very readable. The only item in the review that I don't agree with is the batteries, they're pretty easy to come by plus Nikon still services them. <br>

http://women-and-dreams.blogspot.com/2009/07/nikon-d1x-biglips-is-king.html<br>

I often wish there were more reviews of the older cameras compared to the newer ones from people who actually use them. Sometimes just because it's not the newest or the latest doesn't mean that's it's over the hill. I'll bet there a lot of photographers out there who still use and like the older cameras. It fills their needs for a camera, be it film or digital. Something to be said for knowing where all the buttons are and how to use them for the different situations as they come up, plus most of the time they're paid for. At least that's my thoughts. Hopefully you will enjoy the review.</p>

<p>Check out this older link. It's a very interesting thread on the older 1D vs a newer camera. Should give you something to think about.<br>

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00NVhJ<br>

I think the 1D is a great older camera. It's still serviced by Canon. I have one and still use it. I really like the colors and the size of the files that it produces, very manageable. </p>

Wim

 

I have used and owned the Canon 1D, 1D Mark II N, 30D, 40D and the original 1DS. I have got to tell you that of all the Canon digital

cameras that I have used and owned, the 1DS is to me something special. The raw files that this camera produces are simply wonderful,

they have a look about them that none of the other cameras produced. I don't know what it is but I totally agree with David there's just

something about them (the files). I think as a back-up the 1DS would be fine, but you might be finding that you enjoy using it more than

your 1D mark III. The 1DS is a great camera and to me still is. I would use it over a 5D any day of the week. Hopefully this helps you.

Steve

 

Take your Pentax zoom to Tempe Camera Repair in Tempe, AZ. They can fix just about everything. They're a great repair place. They

have repaired my Hasselblad, Canon, Nikon (film and digital pro bodies), installed a Beattie screen in a Pentax 67, Norman power packs,

etc. worked on Kodak Pro DCS digital camera bodies. Give them a call, you'll be glad that you did.

James don't feel bad. The same thing is happening to me since about yesterday. I'm

using Safari 3.1. Photo.net never used to do this. Seems like it takes forever to, if at

all to open a page. This problem needs to be fixed or repaired. You're not alone.

Nathan

 

I'm going to go against the tide here. I think you should be looking at getting a used

Nikon D2HS body, a Nikon 18-200 zoom lens, a 18-50 f2.8 Sigma zoom lens and

the 50-150 f2.8 Sigma zoom plus the Nikon SB800 flash with the extra battery

holder with it and a Gary Fong light attachment (clear).

 

The Nikon D2HS body is a hell of a body, super fast focusing, built touch as nails,

and a proven performer for the pros. There's a reason to buy a pro camera body,

they're just better and built to take a beating. The viewfinder is bright and huge. The

battery just lasts and lasts. It's just one body no add-ons to think about. The low

light focusing is lightning fast. It will work with almost any Nikon lens. They're priced

at the right price. If you're going to make 8x10s" or 9x12s" and not much bigger

they're almost a perfect digital camera. I know that everyone is telling you to get a

D200, D300 or a D80 or whatever...But remember do you really need all those

pixels? They're harder and slower to process (unless you have the newest and

fastest computer). Did you think about storage of all those huge files, if you shoot

raw? You could shoot raw all the time and not worry about all those things with the

D2HS. The file is big enough for most pro work. It's just something to think about.

 

The Nikon 18-200 zoom is to me a perfect carry around one lens does it all in good

light. Gives you a great range with the Nikon. I hear that the reviews aren't great but

what do they know. Have they (the reviewers) ever used the lens in real life? How

can you tell nowadays about the lens sharpness with digital anyhow? You can

change almost everything with the file after you process it. If you shot film that's

different. You can really tell about a lens only after you shoot with it a while.

 

The Sigma lens, well...they're not NIkons BUT they'll give you a great working range

with the Nikon 1.5 lens factor. They're fast with a f2.8 lens speed, plus if you buy

them new you get a 3 year warranty with Sigma. If they break or give you trouble,

just sent them back to Sigma to be fixed. Another thing to think about is Nikon

doesn't offer anything like them.

 

The Nikon flash is the best that Nikon has right now. You need to learn how to use it

but what a flash. If you use it with the Gary Fong attachment, it's almost like soft

studio lighting, really hard to beat. the extra battery with give you a little faster

recycle time and that will help with the photos.

Nobody likes to wait for the batteries to recharge.

 

That's just my 2 cents worth.

Just an update to my original posting on the new contract.

 

Just some of the points that I have learned about it are:

 

1. All rates and expenses (mileage) are to be decided before going on the assignment, which really

applies to an out of town assignment, but if

there's anything extra, you pick up the tab not AP in town or out of town.

 

2. The stock photo sales, 25% to you as the photographer are for third party buyers only. Sounds

to me like the stringers are working for AP for free or doing their work for them for the out-takes. I

see no real money coming to the stringers. Members and subscribers to the AP service have to

pay for the photos, stringers won't see a percentage of the sale. Only if the photos are sold to a

third party will the stringers see any money out of the stock sale. (They want the photographers to

file all their out-takes from the assignment with this contract, so AP can sell them as stock.)

 

3. If any AP member or AP (maybe even the stock photo sale) anywhere misuses your

photo...guess who can get sued? That's right...the photographer, AP

gets a free pass.

 

4. The assignment rates are all over the place. Each bureaus can pay you what they want, period,

no universal or national rates.

 

5. All invoices have to invoiced on your personal photo stationary (hard copy) and assignment

photos have to be itemized with it. No more email invoices.

But on the bright side they are to be paid in thirty days from the date on your invoice. Not really a

big deal.

 

I'm sure there's more problems with it, but I can't think of them right now.