berlinhennig

May 28, 2009

DSK probably stands for <a href="http://www.daito-seiki.com/english/">Daito Seiki Co. Ltd. Tokyo</a> .

May 25, 2009

Mamiya 645 Pro/Pro TL or AF/AFD and Mamiya 6 or 7 RF - that's your only choice ;-)

May 24, 2009

To give you an impression, what to see and what not: I had a filter (UV) with a crack over the whole surface that I didn't notice on any picture till I deceided to clean the lens (filter) some day. The filter is now in the trash, all the taken pictures are top - so then what can do a fuzz?

May 24, 2009

I noticed that there is a slight layer of dust (or similar)

</blockquote>

...or similar? Hope no fungus.

Take a picture, make a blow-up and check. Anything else will only be speculation. In most cases a little bit of dust is not that problem, you won't see it.

May 23, 2009

Yeah,

some people read the whole thread, other not

some people make simple things complicated, other vice versa

some people need 20 words, other over 300

;-)

May 22, 2009

both taken portraits taken with the monstrous 20x24 polaroid camera

</blockquote>

I guess that the 20x24 polas were single sheets and not in a magazin with poor pressure and unequal face?

May 22, 2009

<ol>

<li>Polaroid still has a lot goods stocked.</li>

<li>As far as I know, Fuji is continuing its instant film line.</li>

<li>Polaroid & Fuji for pros have always been a medium for creating, composing & controlling only or immediately as a kind of art & impression - never as a picture so far.</li>

</ol>

May 19, 2009

The winder knob shouldn't be that easy to remove on any Mamiya 645,

</blockquote>

It has to, it has to - otherwise you can't change the knob against the winder-grip (follow Philip Wilson's post).

May 18, 2009

* The latest Phase One backs use what they call "binning" technology, where the outputs of four adjacent pixels are combined, emulating a single, very large (12 micron) cell. This trades absolute resolution for an usable sensitivity of ISO 3200.

</blockquote>

But these are really only the latest backs. Older ones do not have more than 400 ISO! If you will make studio works only - no problem.

May 17, 2009

If you love stitching - and I can't see any reason why you shouldn't - stay at the 80mm. You can't improve those results with any wide angle lens. All wide angle stitchings are looking awful in my eyes.

May 13, 2009

The lens shades are mostly also as elaborate calculated as the lenses itself. So they are a unit with the lens and any kind of variance may cause a lack of quality of your pictures - such as border shading.

May 13, 2009

Do you use a lens shade and if which? And was it fixed as designated?

May 9, 2009

I paid equivalent to 30 USD for that. Now it works as it should (95% of the times).

</blockquote>

So you only paid 95% of the bill? ;-)

It is still a strange problem since the way becomes longer instead of shorter, as it is usually the case on older parts.

May 7, 2009

It's probably the knurled wheel on the take up side that is slipping and thus measuring the advance incorrectly. How long is it since you had the camera serviced?

</blockquote>

This was my 1st idea too. But if it is slipping, the film will advance nor far enough instead of too far. Then you will have double-exposures and not half a frame of space between - that's the strange one here.

Try to get the backpaper of a film from the lab (+spool) or take a (long) expired film and "shoot" the whole film and watch it simultan with the open hatch, may be you will be able to see (or hear) what the problem might be.

May 5, 2009

In Germany, the money is also not growing on trees. But buying with the only focus of an after usage period is the wrong attitude and will cost you at least much more than anything else: the fun and satisfaction with your new "old" cam. Is it that worth??

Specially us Germans is rumored to be work harder than any other peoples for our old-age pension. What sense does that makes nowadays? No fun - only work & all the money gone?! Think about it!

By the way the Mamiya is an excellent choice. In a time where everybody hold its cam one meter away from its body and try to view a tiny screen, you are standing with something between a tube-radio and a toaster in front of your belly and get 100x better pictures than all the digital fools, spent similar amount and have so much more pleasure. Your wife will also love you for that, because you are a more balanced and luckier than before ;-))

May 4, 2009

It is silly to buy a camera by the resale price instead of their explicit capabilities if you want make photos and you are not a dealer or a speculator - period .

May 4, 2009

There are no guarantees in life. But I can tell you - no matter what amount you finally will spend - if you use a camera under the aspect of the future value, you never will make a good picture and the camera's worth is zero. Forget the future, shoot now and here! Otherwise everything you will get will be frustrating to you.

May 4, 2009

the deciding factor will be the resale value

</blockquote>

Are you a dealer or a photographer? Who cares the resale value more than the working value? A dealer. Wrong forum, this one is for users only ;-)

May 1, 2009

a Mamiya C330 - what else?

April 27, 2009

This is not a problem with the M7 as it is a completly different contraption.

</blockquote>

That sounds strange to me since the M7 is much simpler built (lot of plastic). But good to know so I will not overagitate the advance lever. Thx.

April 26, 2009

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=43021">Arthur Gottschalk</a> , Apr 26, 2009; 10:22 a.m.

The Mamiya 6 is a great camera, perhaps my favorite of all time. But it has some very fragile components ...

</blockquote>

... which are? Could you please specify so that other can take care of their own M6 before anything will broke? Thx.

April 26, 2009

Mamiya 645 system but it isn't ideal for hand holding

</blockquote>

Who t.h. is not able to handheld a Mamiya 645? It's just a little bit larger and heavier than a Canon D1 DSLR. If you can't hold this, try painting!

For travel & shoot there is also the new <a href="http://www.voigtlaender.de/cms/voigtlaender/voigtlaender_cms.nsf/id/pa_fdih7jzkae.html">Voigtländer Bessa III RF/MF</a> camera out in a few weeks. Lesser camera & more film isn't possible at that time.

April 26, 2009

Try <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_camera">field cameras</a> :

<ul>

<li><a title="http://www.horsemanusa.com/" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.horsemanusa.com/" title="http://www.horsemanusa.com/" >Horseman</a> </li>

<li><a title="http://www.linhof.de/" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.linhof.de/" title="http://www.linhof.de/" >Linhof</a> </li>

</ul>

Heavy, but still handy and great in format.

April 25, 2009

Thanks that you ask. Not many do care about this interesting point. Mamiya is a japanese company and so it will be pronunced as the japanese will do. And there are NO N-ey -kon, no K -non and no M-ay -mey -ja . All names will be pronunced short like M-ah -me -ah .

April 24, 2009

Yes, I have the metered AE prism and it works very well for me. If you wont fail, try to get a Sekonic Studio Deluxe L-398 one of the best light meters (and thrifty) that you can use additional. I never had problems with the shutter speed since I never had more than 1/250 till today. I hate tripods (dead pictures) and usually work with high aperture and around 1/125. But you still have the possibility to use a lens with leaf shutter. <img src="http://www.berlinhennig.de/photonet/645.jpg" alt="" width="510" height="510" /> Hope that helped. More questions, feel free to ask.

P.S.: If you have a really good lab and no lack of money (but possibly in time) use the lab. With a good pro lab the results are as good or better than selfmade.

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