keith_kanoun

<p>1. You CAN upgrade the student/teacher versions, there just is no student/teacher upgrade price. You'd need to buy a normal upgrade to a later version.<br>

2. There is no restriction from Adobe on commercial use. <br>

3. The "two machine" restriction is the same as on the normal version. It can only be activated on two machines at a time.</p>

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<p>I have had one HDD fail. That was YEARS ago. The thing with that failure was it was gradual. It gave me plenty of time to move 99% of my data to a separate drive. The SSD was a joke. Works one minute. 100% failure the next.</p>

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<p><br />I've had both sorts of failures with spinning hard drives - the nice gradual "uh oh, I'd better do something" type failure, and the catastrophic one minute it works, the next minute it's dead failure. The latter type once was on a less than one week old drive. I've even had warranty replacement drives for failed drives fail again. I figure anyone that has never experienced a hard drive failure is very fortunate, given the statistics involved.</p>

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<p>do you have a link for that, as I hadn't seen anything about that</p>

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<p>I don't have a direct Adobe link - I read about it on prodesigntools.com. I don't know what countries it applies to, but it's at least true in the USA. It's a shame since you could usually save a few dollars on an upgrade from the retail places.</p>

<p>Ray - what are you scanning with, and is it 160 speed film or did you mean to say 1600? The grain in 160 speed film should be fairly fine, 1600 not so much.</p>

<p>Pierre - probably off topic, but I did color darkroom work, and I don't think I'm <strong>that</strong> atypical. The chemistry for color got pretty simple with the room temperature chemicals that were developed. It really wasn't that much harder than black and white, in my opinion.</p>

<p>Note that Adobe has said that upgrades will now only be available directly from them.</p>

<p>Be aware that you'll have to go through some contortions to get your Coolscan 4000 to work under Windows 7, which any new computer will have. It supposedly is possible (there is info on the web) but not officially supported by Nikon. I say "supposedly" because I have not tried it.</p>

<p>As Les said, adding a firewire card should not add much to the cost. If a particular system can't be ordered with one, just make sure it has a PCI or PCIe slot so you can add one yourself.</p>

<p>I would not recommend attempting any sort of firewire-to-USB adapter. That's likely to only end in frustration.</p>

Here is a page that has some repair info for fixing lenses that have become yellowed - it will probably work for sand too:

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<a href="http://www.hermes.net.au/bayling/repair.html">http://www.hermes.net.au/bayling/repair.html</a>

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Good luck!

There is a web site (not owned by Epson):

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<a href="http://www.epsonsettlement.com/">www.epsonsettlement.com</a>

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-Keith

I can't help on the HP printer but the Epson 2200 driver does in fact have a "borderless" setting. I'm not near the computer that has my 2200 hooked up to it at the moment to tell you what page in the driver settings it's on, but it's there. My recollection is that it's NOT on the same page as the "minimize margins" setting. Maybe the main page.

What's the B&H part number for the generic one you bought?

I've been very happy with my Dell 2001FP (20", non-widescreen). It seems to be gone from their web site (replaced by the 2007FP) but perhaps they still have some left.

I just realized you are not necessarily talking about burning from an image file, but I'm pretty sure any compilation of files from the hard drive that you can burn with Nero can be burned to multiple drives at the same time. There is a checkbox for "Use Multiple Recorders" that just needs to be checked.

I use Nero with 2 internal DVD-RW drives. It works great, and can burn from an image file. Are you trying to avoid Nero for some reason?

The Apple 20" Cinema display and the Dell 2001FP (20.1" UltraSharp) have virtually the same dot pitch. I wonder if the Dell display you got was defective, or there was some sort of driver or setup issue?

I have the 2001FP - I think it's great! It's 1600x1200. The 2005 is 1680x1050 at the same dot pitch, so it actually has less "real estate" as far as pixels go.

 

Images on the 2001FP are stunning. They blow away my old Trinitron CRT.

You could do it the brute force way - cover the outside of the windows with neutral density gells. Not very digital though I suppose.

Maybe jpeg artifacts? How much compression did you use when you converted to jpeg?

"What about Lacie"

 

I think LaCie just packages drives, they don't make the actual drives themselves. If you look inside the external enclosure you will see who the actual drives are made by.

 

I've had bad luck with several manufacturers - got into a bad series of Maxtor drives a number of years ago, then ran into the IBM debacle before they sold the line to Hitachi. At this point I just figure that every hard drive from every manufacturer will fail, just make sure you're ready.

What exactly does the upgrade process consist of - does it ask you to insert your previous Photoshop CD, or look for the previous installation on your hard drive, or ???

One thing to consider - the G5 will eat the iMac's lunch and then kick sand in it's face.

 

Motorola had serious performance issues with the G4 (the processor in the iMac) - it only has a 167MHz system bus. Now that IBM is in the picture (that's who makes the G5 processor) Apple is no longer embarassed to mention the bus speeds. The performance difference between a iMac/G4 and a G5 should be much greater than just the clock speed difference.

I would make sure the motherboard is only screwed to the case (with metal screws) in holes that that have metal plating around them. There are usually holes in the motherboard that do not have plating around them that are only set up for plastic standoffs. I've seen cases where something on the motherboard was shorting to ground via one of the screws.

 

One thing to try, as Scott suggested, is to just run the motherboard out of the case on a non-conductive surface. If it works then, chances are something is shorting in the way it was mounted in the case.

Hey Bob - I know what HP would have told you had you actually gotten to talk to a tech support person, so I'll save you some time. Ready?

 

"You need to reload everything from the restore disk."

 

Isn't that most computer companies' standard (useless) tech support answer for any problem that isn't solvable by such questions as "is your computer plugged in" and "is your monitor hooked up to your computer"?