bert_liza2

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<p >For indoor portraits using available light inside churches, I recommend the EF 85L, EF 85 f1.8, and the new Sigma 85 f1.4 for their better low light capability. (larger apertures and if the 1/FL rule of thumb for FF is followed, slower shutter speed is needed for sharp pictures) However if you want a flatter perspective or a longer reach, then I recommend the longer FL, the EF 135L.</p>

<p >I have an 85 f1.8 and I plan to sell it and buy the Sigma 85mm f1.4 if it gets good reviews. I do not have a 135L because I am happy with my EF 70-200L f2.8 IS I. The resolution advantage of the 135L over the zoom at 135L, f2.8 and smaller is not much (see The-Digital-Picture.com)and the IS, for portrait use compensates, for the 1 f stop smaller maximum aperture.</p>

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<p >As for bokeh, or out of focus background blur, I can not compare because I do not have the 135L, but many seem to prefer the ones produced by the 135L</p>

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<p>I have an inexpensive Pixco brand but not the Hoada brand Nikkor to EOS adapter and a Tagotech brand programmable AF confirm chip that, in AF mode and focusing manually, can trigger the shutter automatically once the confirm light is on. Using my 5D2, I have noticed that I need different micro adjustment settings for different subject distance even with the center focus point being used. This makes manual focusing with this AF confirm chip so difficult. I have also used the EG-S screen and find it also inconsistent for f2.0 or wider apertures. I have MF Nikkor 35mm f1.4 AIS and 50mm f1.2 AIS which I use only when I need f2.0 or wider (I prefer using L zooms for f2.8 and smaller), and I personally find 10X Live View the most consistent in achieving accurate focus.</p>

<p>Nikkor 50mm f1.2 AIS and 35mm f1.4 AIS. I am planning to get a Nikkor 85mm f1.4D.</p>

<p>You can go to pixel-peeper and check the Nikkor 85mm f1.4 images from f1.4 to f2, 12mp (I can't give you the direct link because it is blocked) At 1.4, the 85 f1.4D is known to be very good and well focused images are indeed very good. Although it does not say that they were taken with the AF D version, I presume they are because the AIS version is not known for its sharpness at f1.4. </p>

<p>I have a 5D2 and for my EF 24-70L and 70-200L f2.8 IS, I use AF almost all the time. On my EF 35f2.0 and an EF85f1.8, wide open, I find AF a hit or miss and therefore use MF whenever possible wide open. I have Nikkor MF lenses, a 35mm f1.4 AIS and a 50mm f1.2 AIS which I use exclusively for low light and for better DOF control (f2.0 or wider) and a 20mm f3.5 AIS for my occasional UWA needs. For more accurate MF at f2.0 or wider, I have depended on 10X Live View rather than my EG-S focusing screen.</p>

<p>Resolution of the Nikkor 85mm f1.4D seems to be very good at f1.4 and it is a lot cheaper than the 85L. Has there been a direct comparison between the Nikkor 85mm f1.4D AFD with the Korean 85mm f1.4 at f1.4?</p>

<p>"5D2 is a me-too camera". I bought a 5D2 specifically because it has the me-too image quality of the 1DsIII minus the focusing and weather sealing capabilities and the US$ 6,000 price tag. At f2.8 and smaller, the accuracy and speed of the center focusing point is good enough for portraits and weddings. For bigger apertures, I have depended on 10X live view focusing with great results. For landscape, with smaller apertures, depth of field is so wide that the 5D2’s AF is good enough. If you really want pinpoint accuracy, 10X live view focusing with a tripod is so much easier. (you just need to cover the LCD from bright light). For landscapes, a full frame camera will show the poor resolution of the 17-40 from 17mm 20mm even at f8 (see photozone.de review), but the 16-35 II and the newer 17 and 24 TS-E have been used successfully by many landscape photographers.<br>

<br />Go for the 5D2 if you need the best image quality sensor in a Canon body but can not afford the 1DsIII.</p>

<p>I would rather want Canon sell a 16-35L f4 non IS which is just a little bit more expensive than the 17-40L but as good as the 16-35L f2.8 from f4 and smaller (The 17-40 performs poorly at the extreme corners on FF) and a 24-70L f2.8 IS (After all Canon has a 17-55 f2.8 IS)</p>

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<p>I have the 70-200 f2.8L IS Mark I but not the 70-200 f4L. In terms of f stop, obviously the f2.8L has a 1stop faster advantage. In terms of resolution, at all the zoom range, looking at The-Digital-Picture.com comparison chart, at f4, the f2.8L IS seems to have a slight edge, but from f5.6 and smaller, it seems to be the reverse. If you plan to use the lens mostly at f2.8-f4, then I recommend you get the f2.8L IS. If the f2.8-f4 is not important to you then I recommend you get the f4L IS since it is lighter, cheaper and seems to be a little sharper from f5.6 and smaller. My recommendation may change once the 70-200 f2.8L Mark II is out and well tested.</p>

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<p>I have a 5D2 and Nikkor 20mm f3.5 AIS, 24mm 2.8 AI, 35mm f1.4 AIS, 50mm f1.2 AIS, 180mm f2.8 AIS. Changing lenses will be faster if you have one adapter per lens. Since I need 5 adapters, I could not afford the more expensive ones but I am happy with the Pixco adapter available at ebay from Camplus.shop for $US12 with free shipping.</p>

<p>You can buy AF confirm chips for them but I have noticed that you need different micro adjustment setting for different distances for each lens therefore I have stopped relying on them for focus. I find programmable confirm chips useful for programming the focal length and aperture setting that would appear in the EXIF data. I have an EG-S focusing screen but even with that focusing is still difficult. I did not buy a split screen because I rely on the TTL metering and it is known that TTL metering will be affected. I therefore rely on 10X live view for manual focusing.</p>

<p> My Nikkor lenses perform on my 5D2 as evaluated by Bjørn Rørslett for Nikon FX.</p>

<p>I have a 5D2 but I do not have a 50L. I have an 85mm f1.8 and I get more consistent focus at f1.8 using 10X live view than using AF. I also have a Nikkor 50f1.2 AIS and I am happy with the results at f1.2-f1.6 using 10X live view.</p>

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<p>I own a 5DII, Canon EF 24-70L, EF 70-200 f2.8 IS, EF 85 f1.8, EF 35 f2.0, Nikkor 20 f3.5 AIS, Nikkor 50 f1,2 AIS (from my film cameras), and waiting for a Nikkor 35 f1.4 AIS which I just bought used.</p>

<p>For portraits, using Canon L and non L lenses give you faster focusing and IS. I use my 50 f1.2 AIS (and soon my 35mm f1.4 AIS) only for shots where I need f1.2 to f2 for low light or better DOF control. If money is not an issue, I would get a 50L and a 35L.</p>

<p>For landscapes and other UWA needs, I use my Nikkor 20mm f3.5 AIS. The new EF17mm and EF24mm TS have been getting good reviews and many have been using them not only for architecture but also for landscapes. But if money is not an issue, I would buy first the Nikkor 14-24 UWA zoom and EOS adapter and then these two TS lenses.</p>

<p>I use 10X Live View to focus my MF Nikkor lenses on my 5DII and I would say they perform as evaluated by Bjørn Rørslett</p>

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