george_paulides

<p>Thanks to all for the good advice. I will look at selling the 12-24mm and go with the new 18-35mm. It make sense for WA use to go with the D600 and for reach look at the D200.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon D200/Fuji S5 Pro and recently purchased a D600. I have been using a Nikon 12-24mm F4 AF-S DX for many years with the D200/Fuji S5 Pro and love the results.<br>

Now that I have D600 I have been thinking about the new 18-35mm AF-G lens, which by some accounts seems to be a good performer.<br>

I have a few of DX lens which I will probably hold onto (12-24mm & 16-85mm VR) and some FX lens - 28mm F1.8G (new), 50mm F1.4G, 85mm F1.8G, 24-85mm VR (new), 70-300mm VR.<br>

Eventually I may replace the D200 with a D7100 (?). So my question is, save a bit more and buy a D7100 eventually and use my existing DX and FX fixed lens (including the 12-24mm AF-S) or buy the new 18-35mm AF-S G for the D600?<br>

For landscapes I tend to shot F8 and above with the 12-24mm. Would there be a inherit advantage in buying the 18-35mm for the D600 vs. 12-24mm for the D7100 considering the sensor count is similar?<br>

The D200 is out dated and not worth much at all - great for my son to learn photography on. I plan on holding onto the Fuji S5 until it dies because I like the colour rendition and the amount for DR it can pull out.<br>

Interested in opinions? Thanks.</p>

<p>You did not try cleaning it before returning it? If you have a DSLR you need to expect to end up with dust on the sensor at some point in time.<br>

Granted that in the case of the D600 it may be more so if you go by the reports of some on the forums. I am not saying it is not a problem with the D600 but may be is not a major long term issue - I think this problem may have been over amplified by some.<br>

Particular by those who are moving to FF for the first time - the larger the sensor the more chance of dust of settling on it after all.<br>

I am about to find out myself since I have a D600 on order. I am however prepared to clean the sensor if need be. </p>

 

<p>Thanks to all.</p>

<p>To Howard M question, the folder with all the image is now on D drive.<br>

The new Lightroom catalogs are on C drive (SSD) under default c:\user\user name\my pictures\lightroom. As mentioned previously I imported ONLY the older LR catalogs from D drive but left the older picture folders on D drive.<br>

Now if I use the "Find Missing Folder" function and try to link the the older Photo folder on D drive it does not readily find the missing link data.<br>

It appears that you have to point it to the right image folder and I have many of them on D drive. Is there a easier way to do this rather than go through them one by one?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I can see the image in the catalog. They all have a ? next to them.</p>

<p>I am not sure if I went about this the right way? I installed a new SSD in my desktop PC - complete new Win 7 64-bit install.<br>

I installed LR4.1 on the SSD and imported my LR2.0, 3.0, 4.0 catalogues from a previous Photo folder on the "old" D drive (original HDD) via LR4.1 into c:\user\name\my pictures\lightroom (on the SSD) - default location.<br>

The problem I have is that every single picture is "off line/missing" when I go into edit. The SSD is only 128Gb so I can not have one My Pictures folder like I use too (My Pictures folder is close to 80Gb alone).<br>

If I right click on the picture folder and point it back to my D drive where the original Lightroom folder is I still have the error message. How do I fix this mess - I have thousands of photos with a question mark next to them?<br>

How should I go about this? Should I have imported my older LR catalogs the way I did or is there a better method?<br>

Maybe the best way is to uninstall LR4.1 and start again? <br>

Open to suggestions. Thanks.</p>

 

<p>Thanks guys.</p>

<p>Thanks to all who have responded. It is the worst feeling - I still see the slow motion replay in my mind. The lens is not brand new, I have had it for couple of years so unfortunately the credit card insurance will not cover it. I will take it to Nikon for a quote. The only fortunate thing about this experience is atleast the Fuji S5 Pro was not damaged - it would have been a little hard to replace my fav camera.<br>

Shung, interesting comment about the Nikon 10-24mm - I will have a look at lens reviews. Thanks to all again.</p>

 

<p >Had the most unfortunate experience of dropping my Nikon 12-24mm with my Fuji S5 Pro onto a driveway over the weekend - it actually launched itself from my unzipped backpack.<br>

The lens toke the brunt of the impact and shattered the filter. The front lip is distorted and I have no chance of removing the remaining filter since it is bent badly. I have spoken with Nikon and they suggested that it may be repairable. They advised that they can replace the casing but it won't be cheap.<br>

My concern is the shattered filter and if it has marked/damaged the front element of the lens (nothing visible to my eye) - the lens cap was on at the time of the drop so the shattered glass would have bounced between the front element and the lens cap. I have obviously removed the glass but I have not attempted to remove the fine glass particles/chards as yet - I would leave that for the Nikon service centre. The lens focuses on the camera but if I turn the zoom ring it grinds - probadly the glass fragments have made they way into the casing.<br>

Not sure if someone else has had a similiar experience and had their lens repaired? Is it worth doing it - would probadly cost around $500 to repair and I can buy a new lens for under $1000.<br>

How resilient are the front lens to scratching if a filter breaks? If the front element is not scratched and the casing can be repaired then this may be the most cost effective way. Any advice would be appreciated?</p>

<p>Yes, I like to do long exposures before sunset. I will primarily be using ND filters. I guess find the ND110 hard to work with as I mentioned from a composing, focus and metering perspective since it is so dark. May be not so much of problem with other grades of ND filters.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon D200 and Nikon 12-24mm/16-85mm VR. I plan to purchase a square filter sytem for neutral density filter use. I currently use a B+W 77mm ND110 filter but I find is tedious in that I have to remove filter to compose, focus and meter the shot.<br>

I think it would be much easier with a square filter system. The options as far as I known are Lee, Cokin and Hi-Tech. I do not want to spend a fortune can anyone recommend a reasonable system? Also can you mix and match the actual square filters of one brand versus another if you have a particular brand of filter holder? Thanks.</p>

<p>Apologises if this has been covered before but has anyone installed NikonScan 4.x on a Windows 7 PC?<br>

I have a Coolscan V ED and considering loading Windows 7 on the PC otherwise I will stick with Vista. I know that there is no offical driver release as yet from Nikon but I am interested to see if anyone has tried it and it works with no issues. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for your help. The alcohol helped.</p>

<p >I have a Nikon F100 that is about 10 years old now. Just recently I noticed that on the back of the camera body the leatherette finish is "sweating" - it is a bit sticky when touched.</p>

<p >The front of the body/handgrip is okay so it only appears to be happening on the back of the body. Is this a case of deterioration of the leatherette finish?</p>

<p >Can the stickiness be remove some how?</p>

<p >Open to any suggestions. Thanks.</p>

<p > </p>

<p>Thanks for the response, What did work eventually was to press the filter against the sole of my running shoe and turn the lens.</p>

<p>I have a slim profile Hoya Pro1 UV filter that is well and truely stuck on my 16-85mm VR. Any suggestions how to best remove this filter without damaging the lens thread or the filter itself? Thanks.</p>

<p>No, not yet especially for the price that they are asking for it. Prefer to wait for the EP-2 with so called EVF and built-in flash. I hope a micro 4/3's version of the "OM-2/3/4" is released.</p>

<p>Godfrey,<br>

Now that is good news! Thanks.</p>

 

<p>I have always purchased Olympus P & S cameras (film & digital) over the years but have not quite made the plunge into their DSLR line - have been tempted many a time, especially by the E-3. I see this new micro third line as promising.<br>

I have a Contax G system with a number of Carl Zeiss primes that I still use - it is the perfect travel camera with excellent quality lens. If Olympus produces anything <em>remotely</em> akin to a "digital version" of the Contax G system in size/functionality/versatility then I will in the queue!</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice Hans, Ilkka & Andreas (BTW nice photos on your blog) . I am more inclined to go for the newer 35mm DX. Yes, you are correct the price point is good value and you always trade up to a newer FX version when available.</p>

<p>Interested to know if the new 35mm F1.8 DX is optically better than the older 35mm F2.0 AF lens? I am considering one of the two.<br>

The obvious benefit of going with the older 35mm F2.0 AF lens is that it works for DX and FX SLR models. At the moment I have a D200 but I plan to upgrade to FF in 12-18 months (I also still ocassionally use my trusty old F100).<br>

The better optical argument just may influence my decision. Thanks.</p>

 

<p>If you prefer to do less processing on the PC another option is the Fuji S5 Pro. It produces some on the best JPEG's I have seen out of camera. It has good high ISO capability and is it based on a Nikon D200 body - uses same lens and most accessories as the D200. It's dynamic range is superb and IMHO it is worth taking a look. Its pricing now is around $US900 body (cheaper in other countries) - like the D200 it is end of life.<br>

I have a D70s, D200 and the S5 - I always reach for the Fuji because of its IQ.</p>

 

<p>Just to clarify the new 35mm AFS DX is F1.8 not F1.4.</p>

<p>Would the 50mm F1.4 AF-S retain full functionality on a Nikon F100?</p>