chinoloco93

<p>I found Nadine via photo.net and I had her shoot my wedding. One of her favorite shots she mentioned in one of the interviews was of me hugging my mom. Nadine was a incredible class act, so smart, and amazingly talented. I am saddened to hear of this news as I haven't been on PN for a while. Her skill was one that was simple, yet captivating. She will be missed.</p>

well... no need to speculate when Johnson provided a link to a study of the sales numbers.

Canon has 46.7% of the DSLR market versus Nikon's 33%.

Canon is number one in overall Digital Cams, with Sony Second, Kodak Third, Olympus 4th, Samsung 5th and Nikon 6th. Samsung almost doubled its market share to overtake Nikon for 5th overall in digital camera sales.

Dan,

 

I think they are free. There is no registration, just show up at the campsite. I am sure also its free to help demo and sell more Canon DSLRs. I think I might just pop over to Yosemite since its that close. Thanks for the tip.

Michelle,

I am glad everything turned out okay. Your professionalism will help you with the referrals. Its amazing how big egos can get in this business. The chapel should be ashamed of itself for forcing its photographer on people who don't want such and well.. what can you say? I enjoyed your story or trial and tribulation and wanted to thank you for sharing.

Herma, if its this one: http://dotlinecorp.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=298&products_id=2973

 

You will be able to extend the height to allow for the battery grip. Good luck.

KS,

 

Thanks to Joel, I found this very helpful in learning how ISO, Shutter and Aperture relate to EV (Exposure Value). http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

 

If I know what type of light I am in, the shutter speed I want, the Dof field I want, I can choose the correct ISO for a properly exposed picture. Good luck.

Justin,

I think you will do a fair amount of Post Processing even with a 30D. Sometimes I miss the shot by a bit and always Post Process to get the result I want or need. I think some of the people who shoot a lot of pics switch to Jpeg to lessen PP time. However if they blow a shot, its harder to recover via jpeg.

Actually,

 

The picture itself is not worth saving. Its more of a question and technique issue I was asking about. I actually cleaned this lens and filter the night before, perhaps streaking from that? Anyways, I will do what Ronald suggested to try to fix the file because its more my education then anything.

 

thanks for the comments.

WW-

I think I would benefit from a class like yours. Automation has really helped take some skills from the photographer and placed it in faith in the camera. Its funny, I think the fundementals are more and more lost with automation. I should for a week or so just take pictures with Manual Focus and Manual Exposure. I am sure I will learn alot in that simple exercise. In today's world, there is always Photoshop to help rescue my mistakes.

Scott,

 

You are right. Flashes with the external connectors to the battery pack will have the custom function that allows you to recycle power from both battery pack and batteries in the flash. In this custom feature, it will draw power from both for faster recycle times. You won't have a CF for a flash that doesn't have a external plug for the battery pack. For this one reason and the wireless/slave capability, I got the 580EX. With the battery pack and you shoot with a high ISO, there is nearly no down time waiting for the flash to recyle. Shoot at 1600 ISO and the flash's recyle is instant. Even shooting at ISO 400, you rarely notice lag at all. Since you prefer no flash however, then you will most likely be fine with your 430. One hint on your stroboframe.. if you got the camera flip, it will be really small on your 20D if you use the battery grip. I gave up and went to Custom Bracket.

Your flash will work. You still have ETTL Metering, I think you lose some of the upgrade algorithms that is supposedly in ETTL-2.

Tri,

Like Brent mentioned for speed, you have to stick with the 1D line. Thats what i like to take pictures of and even the 30D is slow sometimes. 1D MK II or III is your answer.

I think getting the IS can still come in handy. You have a fast shutter speed requirement and with a 200mm zoom setting, you are at about the shutter speed = 1/zoom rule of thumb on the crop camera for handholding the camera. When you decide to slow the lens a little more to capture motion, you will appreciate the IS for eliminating blur from your hand shake and only caption motion from your subject. If you want to "Stop" everything if your pics, then IS will not be as much of a benefit to you. If you want to have some motion blur as horses in motion, then Mode 2 can help you pan. In some lighting conditions though like later afternoon, you might not have enough light to properly expose at 1/350 shutter and then IS will be your friend. I would go along with Dave on getting the 2.8 instead of the 4. I have the 2.8 IS and wouldn't be without it.

Even though I had on a hood, I must have stepped in a position to get lots of

flare. With small flare, I can use the Rubber Stamp and Healing Brush. Is that

my only alternative here or is there something that can remove the streaks much

faster?

 

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.<div></div>

Canon 70-200 f/4L is your only choice at your price range. F/2.8 is out of the question for a zoom. Most popular canon zooms in your price range are 17-85mm and 28-135. I think both have IS. Good luck. There is not a F/2.8 zoom from canon under 1K.

what a baaaaad looking transformer. Its not even cool looking. Bah! Can't wait for the movie though! Autobots.. transform!

Chris,

 

Well, you have a walk-around in the kit lens already. It pretty good already for a normal lens. You got a fast telephoto in the 50mm 1.8. Typically speaking, you don't need fast for ultra wide angle but your long telephoto is not great. I had that lens before and my copy was soft and slow. If it was me, I would sell that 75-300 for about 125 and put in a few hundred dollars to get the 70-300. It comes with IS which is quite handy for telephoto. I find myself shootings lots of telephoto and the IS is very handy especially at 300mm. Other then that, you can try a normal prime like a 28mm which give you close to a normal view 50. If you like landscape photography you can go for the 10-22mm which is close to your budget as well. Good luck and have fun in Japan.

joel,

 

thats right. You were the poster from 2 months ago. I remember that crescent moon pic now. Looks like Canon got you all fixed up.

someone else here had the same problem before. I believe the shutter was the issue. can anyone remember? I am sure the vets will remember. This person had the same crescent moon light thing like your pictures showed. I think at the end, it needed repair.

then I wonder if its a setting issue in the camera body. Even without exposure comp settings changing, the programs will report back a "0". A quick google only found the settings missing when looking at converted tiffs or jpgs are missing. CRW should always have the setting. Maybe reinstall Zoom brownser?

Did you photoshop the images? I know once you photoshop to make changes like crop and otherwise, you lose the settings in ZoomBrowser and DPP if you save it as the same file. If this is the case, you will need to save it as a different file name to save your exif data.

HI Joel,

 

I usually always use NeatImage when shooting anything over ISO 400, so I can always try to reduce afterwards if needed. What is the best place to get the settings. I think their use to be charts you can buy. For now, I have been limited to using the exposure meter on the body itself and its inconsistient at best. thats usually why I shoot with a +1/3 compensation and adjust later in PS if needed. A chart would really help. Thanks!

Both the 430 and the 580 have the Pull Down cover giving you coverage as fall down as 14mm on the full frame camera. thats a little wider then your 10mm on 1.6 crop body. I would not consider any other flash because of this. Your main advantage of the 580 over the 430 is of course more power and the ability to use a battery pack. knowing that as the batteries get hotter and the more times you flash, the recycle times take longer and longer even with 2500 niMH batteries, or Lithium battieries. I would not go without the battery pack if I was at a event or a location that required alot of pictures. For common every day use, your 430EX is fine. Take pictures of a wedding however, and you end up waiting for the flash to recycle. Since I can't wait for recycle and prefer the to use flash on multiple frames, the 580 is the choice for me. If you don't need that, go with the 430. Either way, they are nice flashes. you can always sell and upgrade later if you need the battery pack or more power.

Tri,

If you cannot answer this yourself, you haven't gotten enough time with your current camera. You need to know what your limitations and advantages are.

 

after months of shooting pics, I decided to want to upgrade to a 1D Mk II, since it will be cheaper then the III. I am mostly interested in the 1D line for the 8 fps. My 30D now is pretty fast at 3-5 fps, but at the last baseball game I went to, I notice a little lag in the time of buffering and snapping during the pitching windup and that bothered me. So I know that 5D and 1Ds is not for me because their framerate is slower (max 3fps). Other photographers really want the capability to blow up their pics to a large size like 24 x 30 or so. With this in mind, you are probably better off with a 5D or 1Ds because of the higher megapixel capabilities. Canon actually did a pretty good job determining their market. If you want speed, you go the 30D and 1D line, if you want megapixels for higher resolution for blow ups, you go the 5D and 1Ds line. if you want to take pictures with a DSLR and learn or have a budget, you go the XT/XTi line. If you examine th product lines, you pretty much can see where the strengths in each bodies lies. All are great camera bodies. The XTi is very impressive for its feature lists and you are considering 2 very different body types for its replacement. Since I like shooing weddings and sports, i prefer the 30D and 1D. good luck in making a decision.

John,

I was looking for tips. sometimes you can really pull your hair out when you don't quite understand how something works. i will take some test shots though to get a feel for it.

Joel and Ron,exactly what i was looking for. I think I was confused by the instructions reducing the distance of the factor of 2.5. Does that mean settings for 20 feet is now only good for 8 feet? 20/2.5?