john_sonewald

I have a Minolta Autometer III with the spot attachment, and a Gossen Luna Pro F. The Luna Pro F is a replacement for a standard Luna Pro, only because I needed the flash meter function. Both Luna Pro's are big, clunky looking, but great to use, simple, extremely fast, and very easy to read. You might think about buying a used one, using it to find out what you like or not, then selling it if you decide you want something different. They hold their value pretty well.

3. Supposedly a repair person can decouple the aperture and shutter. I found it awkward at first, but got used to them being coupled.

I have both. The backs are not interchangeable. In general what do you get by buying Kiev? A lot of lenses, backs, and a body or bodies for a tiny fraction of what you would spend on Hasselblad. What do you lose? Reliability and investment value.

 

I ran about a 100 rolls through my Kiev 88, with 4 film backs. None of the film backs would work exactly the same every time. Two (new style) had persistent light leaks. Two (old style) wouldn't advance film with consistent spacing.

 

The body actually worked fairly well, until it started making different sounds each time the shutter was fired. At that time I realized I needed a camera to depend on for work. I sold all the lenses for about what I paid for them. The Kiev body and 80mm are worth a fraction of what I paid for them, so I kept them.

 

I then bought a 500CM, 3 backs, and 80mm T*. Although the Kiev lenses were pretty good, the Zeiss lens is so much better it is hard to believe. The body and backs work the same (extremely well) every single time. Today I could sell the entire Hasselblad outfit for what I paid for it.

 

The Kiev prism finder is pretty good. It is usually mounted on the 500CM. The meter is plenty accurate enough for transparency shooting.

 

I also kept the Kiev Polaroid back, which I modified to mount on the 500CM. I have used it quite a bit for test shots. The Polaroid back was well worth the $100 I spent for it.

 

Summary: Kiev backs are not worth it. Kiev lenses are OK, but you can't mount them on a Hasselblad anyway. Kiev prism finders are a good thing. Kiev Polaroid backs are good if you are willing to spend a little time to modify them for the Hasselblad.

I use a Bogen 3221 (a 3021 that's all black), with the 3047 head. It's only used indoors, so I can't vouch for it in the wilderness, but it is rack steady with a 500CM.

Try this company. I've used the 6x6 mounts; they're quite nice.

 

http://www.tssphoto.com/sp/69.html

1. Buy a used Hasselblad. A 500CM with 80mm lens and an A12 back can be had for $1500US to $2000US. I f you don't like it you can sell it for just about what you paid for it.

 

2. Buy one of the Russian meter prisms designed for the Kiev 88/Salyut 88 cameras. The older, non-spot mode versions are available for under $100US. I have one on my 500CM; it fits, it works reliably, and it is accurate.

Look at "Light: Science and Magic, an Introduction to Photographic Lighting" by Fil Hunter and Paul Faqua, before you spend money on more equipment.

I found mine well worth it. It doesn't replace a handheld meter, but is really nice to have if you want to minimize the gear around your neck, shoulder, etc. The only drawback to me is winding. It is nowhere near as easy as with the crank.

And here:

 

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http://cameraquest.com/leicacl.htm

Try this company. Their service and quality are petty good.

 

www.lightimpressionsdirect.com

My first reality check when moving from 35mm to MF (a Hasselblad)- the 1/focal length as a hand holdable shutter speed doesn't work. If you are hand holding the camera with the 80mm, plan on at least 125th shutter speed to get useable photos.

I found a 90/4 Elmar SM in very good condition, except that the aperture ring turns smoothly from end to end. There are no click stops. Is this normal? My only Leica lens experience is with a 40/2 Elmar C.

The pro photo hsop I use occassionally doesn't like to print XP-2.

Their prints have more color variation with XP-2 than any other lab

and T400CN or 400+B/W.

 

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Here are some photos with both films:

 

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XP-2 (with Kiev 88/80mm)

http://www.photo.net/photo/269984

http://www.photo.net/photo/269991

 

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T400CN (with Leica CL/40mm)

http://www.photo.net/photo/320408

http://www.photo.net/photo/320409

http://www.photo.net/photo/331082

http://www.photo.net/photo/320402

http://www.photo.net/photo/320407

Look at this site. Under CL review it lists the few lenses that are

not compatible with the CL.

 

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http://www.cameraquest.com/index.html

Small correction:

 

The /M models do accept interchangeable screens.

 

Selecting a camera system is highly subjective. Allowing that, I can say that my 500C/M and 80T* become transparent to the process of making a photo for me. I simply don't have to think about the camera when I using it.

I've used both and cannot tell a difference between the two

imagewise. The only difference I can see is that Press 800 is

available in 36x rolls. Superia 800 is only available in 24x rolls

through the mass market stores.

1. A coworker flew from Frankfurt to Atlanta to Knoxville last Friday. He was allowed carry on luggage (including a cuckoo clock) at both airports. He notifed the inspection people beforehand that he had the clock, and other than a thourough inspection of it had no difficulty.

 

2. A relative returned to Cleveland from Denmark over the weekend (route unknown). She was allowed only a purse. No other carry ons were allowed.

Two weeks ago Sherry Krauter quoted $150 plus parts to overhaul a CL.

She estimated turn around time at about 4 weeks.

How do you meter with the CL considering that it is (or seems to be) a spot meter? What section(s)of the scene do you aim at?

 

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Background: I know the meter is fairly accurate by doing blank wall & sky comparisons with hand held and in camera meters, and conversation with Sherry Krauter. I have a Minolta meter with spot attachment and have used it succesfully for some time, but always very slowly and deliberately. Color negative or B/W chromogenic film is always in the camera.

 

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Thanks.

The "FotoSharp" reference card for "Photographong Water" suggests the following:

 

Desired Appearance = Blurred; 1/15 to 1/125 (use the faster speeds for larger streams/rivers).

 

Desired Appearance = Silky; 1 sec. to 1/2 (also faster speeds for larger streams/rivers).

The CE mark indicates that the product has passed a rather stringent set of safety and reliability tests required by the European Union (EU). Products that do not carry the CE mark cannot legally be imported into EU countries. It is somewhat analogous to the UL and CSA marks you see on some US products. Once a product is CE certified, most manufacturer's will place the CE mark all models coming off the production line. It has nothing to do with the ultimate exportation status of the product.

 

Your best bet is to call the official US importer with the serial number.

You can get a lot of mileage out of the cameras you are considering. Hasselblads are extremely fine instruments, but not required to decide if MF and you are a good match. I admit to having a Hasselblad, but it's the third MF camera I've owned, and the fourth I've used.

 

As far as where to buy - if at all possible find a shop that has used cameras. Chances are their prices will be close to or less than prices for the same model in eBay. You have the significant advantage of seeing it first hand before you pay, and probably getting a 30-90 day warranty. You might also try renting one for a weekend.

My CL meter needs to be re-calibrated (based on telephone troubleshooting with DAG). I can choose to have the meter calibrated for a particular batery type. Having read the threads on alkaline versus Wein versus Cris adapters, is there a significant advantage of one over the other?

Recently I added a CL to my Nikon FM, F3, & Hasselblad 500CM

collection. The guys above speak the truth. A rangefinder is a

different beast. I have no regrets about spending the money; the

camera is wonderful, the 40mm lens is amazing, but it is definitely a

learning experience.

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