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thomasw

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Posts posted by thomasw

  1. <p>beautiful lens rendition. mine is f/1,5 optimized, too. i find that this is best for the way I like to shoot, for in the rare circumstances I use the lens at f2 to f4 (any more closed down, DoF compensates for the shift) and only when close up that I must remember this one simple thing: to lean backwards 3". Everything else works normally.</p>
  2. <p>The MP VF has a condenser that reduces flare that is not in a standard M6 VF. M6 VFs can be upgraded to the new MP VF. M7s now come standard with the MP VF.<br /> As well as the brass internals, and classic styling, the MP has a meter that is one stop more sensitive than the standard M6 meter. This can be very useful when shooting in low light.<br /> I have had a few MPs, M2s, M3s and a M7. The MP and the M3/2 just rock. Build quality, styling, ergonomics are very similar....all smooth. The M7 is quiet, but has different styling and ergonomics from the M2/3/P. The MP style rewind crank is slower, but more sturdy and less prone to bending than the M4/6-7 rw crank. As well the shutter speed dial turns differently on the M7 than on the classic MP/3/2. Also the M7 has a plastic tipped film advance lever, whereas the MP/2/3 has an all metal advance lever. My M7's advance suffered damage to its plastic tip...which was annoying.</p>
  3. <p>The M2 close focus is configured for ,7m right the beginning of production. The M3 can be adjusted easily and inexpensively to close focus to ,7m. All M-mount lenses will work on either camera. Make sure you buy yours with a clear, bright and contrasty VF; you will have a camera that just rocks and works well.</p>
  4. <p>This will come down to preference in rendering. I have owned both, and I like both, even though I have chosen to keep the ASPH. The mandler design of the pre-ASPH at f1,4 renders slightly more impressionistically than the ASPH. The ASPH is contrastier wide open. I recommend looking at the M mount group on flickr; there are numerous image samples of each lens. FWIW, strictly for portraiture, I'd get a pre-ASPH v3.</p>
  5. <p>I recommend a user M2 for 650$. Then find yourself a version 3 summicron 35/2 for 750 to 850$. Or, if you need more speed, buy a cv 35/1.4 used for ~500$. The M2 is excellent with 28mm lenses, as you can just use the entire vf to approximate the fov. Tom A suggests temporarily covering the brightlines window with tape, and I have found that helpful while I was shooting with a 28.</p>
  6. <p>Stuart: I think Leica now have a comparable lens to the zm 18/4, their 18/3,8 should be very interesting.</p>

    <p>OP: I had a ZM 50/2 and thought it a fine as an all-round lens, but I traded it for a mandler-designed 50/1,4 lux. What it lacked was low-light applicability and a distinctive look, a character flaw or something that said 'this is That' lens. This is just my take, of course. I have a thing for lenses that might be 'flawed' in a certain sense but yet have a distinctive rendering. I think the sonnar zm 50/1,5 is a more interesting lens in terms of its rendering.</p>

  7. <p>Hi,<br>

    I recommend the M2 for your stated shooting requirements. It will do 28 to 90 effectively. By using the outside of the 35 framelines you will get an accurate representation of the 28mm framelines. It works well; if you shoot the 28mm a lot, you can even temporarily tape or place a finger over the corrigated brightline window and you will have a perfectly clean VF from which to frame your 28mm shots. The single framelines for the 35/50 and 90 are a dream. The build quality is top shelf. Count on getting a CLA. But it will serve you very well; and if you don't like it, you'll be able to sell it for roughly what you paid.</p>

  8. I recommend buying here or on RFF before anywhere else. Just put a WTB Ad in the classifieds and you will get offers. In my view, you will be able to acquire a non-metered M2/M3/M4-P and an older summicron 50/2 collapsible lens. Ideally the M3 + 50mm summicron will do what you want well; it is a very versatile little kit.
  9. Youxin Ye worked on a barnack of mine just three months ago. He works quickly, communicates effectively, and does excellent work. I recommend him highly for screw mount work. His service costs are very fair as well. I'd email him if I were you.

     

    wye7@yahoo.com

  10. does the VF have the upgraded fix for flare?

     

    as for film; i recommend ilford films...the delta 100/400/3200 are my favourites for BW. but if you prefer the new triX or Tmax film...go with it. film is about function and preference...you have to learn what looks good and works well for you:)

     

    as far as film processing goes, i think it depends on what you need the images for...most 1 hr places can scan to cd and give you good images to put on the net or for smaller prints...but is that what you need? processing your own BW film and scanning it is very rewarding and fun for me. perhaps you will find it likewise... I use a epson v700 scanner and find I get good results from it.

  11. Yes, like you David, I am a photographic hobbyist, but I find the cost of the leica lenses a bit more prohibitive than you. That said, I do own 2 newer leica lenses (my summilux 50/1.4 being the favourite), and several older ones; yet the two ZM biogons I own are very much on the same level performance-wise as my newer leicas. I own the ZM 28/2.8 and 35/2; both have been smashing performers. In fact, I sold my summicron 35 because I preferred the ZM 35's results. And then when you do the price-result comparison, the ZM looks really strong....

     

    Glad to hear about the ZM 21/2.8. The 25 is supposed to be smashing as well. No question if I needed to go wider than 28 I would be going your route with the ZM biogon 21&25 as well. I'd be interested to see some results with your 21/25 when you have some to share!

     

    Thomas

  12. For portraits I love the reasonably priced Leica Tele-Elmar 135/4. Crisp. Clear. Sharp. with regard to the subject; a gentle, slow degree of softness and less crispness toward the OOF areas when you want to define the subject. I regard it warmly and highly if you can get by with the f4.

     

    I own the VC 15/4,5 lens and I love its .3 m close focussing AND the fact that it is great for majestic landscapes and architectural shots. It opens up an area of shooting I haven't thought through yet. I wish I could swing the bill for the 2.8/15 ZM, but the extra stops and floating elements are not worth the extra debt as far as I am concerned.

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