allan_fontanilla

I got this lens when it first came out. Had to have the chip/ electronics updated so it would work with my (digital) D70. Sigma USA did it for free even though it was more than a few years old and out of warrantee. The latest ones are already updated for digital of course.

 

I use it hand-held almost all the time. It has been great sharp lens for me.

Michael,

 

I think what Nadine is talking about is that certain models (like the Press T) actually turn the flash unit on its side when the camera is flipped vertically. Thus making the only useful angle head setting 90 degrees.

 

The VH2000 keeps the flash upright in both camera positions.

When it comes to disposables, no one seems to question the different brands much less care about which ones to use. But with rechargables, people seem to bash the cheap ones. Maybe it's a way to justify the high price they paid. My $7.99 battery works fine.

I have 2 PL2500 Photogenics and would recommend them. I like the 1/10th and 1/2 stop increments at the touch of a button instead of a slider. It has a 250 watt modeling light. The modeling light flashes on and off to indicate it's recharged for the next shot. My Smith Victor barn door/ gel holder fits on the stock reflector. Optional remote is available too. They're a bit more expensive than the Alien Bees though. You can get f45 @ ISO 100 when you pop it 10 feet away bare bulb using the reflector. Having lots of power was my main criteria.

I have this lens and use it as my main lens on a D70 also. It seems to be sharp enough for me. I don't mind the 82mm filter size either since the only filters I use now is a circular polarizer and UV. Its large size seems to occasionally interfere with the AF assist light. One nice thing is that you can slide the autofocus barrel back so it doesn't spin while focusing. Nice if you're used to holding the barrel while shooting in AF.

 

However, if you use the built in flash at a wide angle, the lens will cast a shadow. Doesn't bother me since I don't use the built in flash much anyway.

 

It's funny because I got this lens when it first came out and Sigma didn't mention at the time that it was macro lens. I only noticed its macro capability after I took a few close up shots. Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised. I think it's only recently that Sigma started advertising it as a macro lens.

Standard 1/4-20 bolt.

Blackline: Softbox behind the glass.

 

Whiteline: Black background, softbox on each side. The positioning and shape of the sofboxes will define the shape of the whiteline on the edge of the glass.

For film?

 

The benefit of a proof with a Polaroid back is that it is attached to the same camera and lens that will take the final picture...

Have you tried connecting all of them with a pc cord instead of trying to trigger with the slave?

Photogenic PL2500:

 

Bare bulb: f16.5

w/standard 8" reflector: f45.1

 

Seconic L508 meter

ISO 100

With the menu set to FV lock, you can simply toggle the feature on and off by simply pushing the AE-L/AF-L button...right?

I've considered using these lights myself, but...

 

I think the biggest downside to a constant light source is the inconvenience in regulating the output. Are you going to add a switch to each bulb? Reposition the lighting (at the expense of changing the shape?) You can't wire in a rheostat (dimmer switch) with fluorescent lights.

One diffused light source that is very close to the subject. You can see the shape of the light source in her eyes. The background may even be white and not necessarily grey but is rendered grey because it is positioned farther back.

 

With diffused light, the closer it is to the subject, the softer the shadow.

Angle your seamless if you want a more pronounced effect.

It?s all from the main light source. The graduated effect on the background is simply because it further back.

I use a generic hotshoe/pc adaptor on my D70 to connect my SB800 and 1-2 Photogenic monolights . Never had a problem. Page 186 of the D70 Engligh manual says negative voltage or voltage over 250V is a problem...

None of the automatic modes will work correctly with additional strobes if it's not part of the camera's metering system. You really need to get familiar with manual mode. Unless you want to purposely add motion to your shot or capture ambient light, just set the camera to it's highest sync speed, 1/500 and leave it there. Then choose the aperture you want and after that set the strobe/flash output. As long as the composition doesn't change, fire away to your hearts content because the camera and strobe settings will NEVER change.

 

It's really easier than you think. And because you have a digital camera, it makes it all the more quicker to review your shots. You'll learn how to determine the correct exposure quickly. It's the finer details and refinement that will take you longer to figure out like light placement, shadows and composition etc...

But wouldn't it be better to view it at 100% rather than at 50% prior to printing- to see if the print will be at least as good as what you're viewing? Seems to me that viewing at 50%, you won't see everything you want to see.

 

Like for example; you blow up your document size to say, 24" x 30". At 50%, you won't know if the image is pixilated. If you view it at 100% and see no pixels and it looks good, you'll know your print won't show pixels as well.

Most strobes have a built-in modeling light- it's a feature of a strobe. It's just a light besides the main flash bulb that you can have on at all times. Good from checking shadows and general lighting to see by.

 

A meter is great and is something you want to eventually get. But if you're in a pinch or just can't afford one right now, you can use your D70's LCD. I forgot my meter on one of my last shoots but I did fine without it. Frankly, I can determine the correct expose within a couple of test shots just by viewing the histogram, highlights and image FASTER then if I use my meter.

 

I just look for a uniform 'mountain' ridgeline centered equally in the LCD- that's all! Just experiment with under and overexposed shots and compare them to a correct one and you'll see the difference between them.

 

Let's say you take a test shot. The histogram is to the left so it tells you it's underexposed, you open up a stop, fire another shot, still a little under, open up one more, now it looks good, zoom in for more detail... voila! Exposure is set! All with out taking a meter reading or leaving your camera. Consider it like free Polaroid.

 

Btw, you'll eventually discover after reviewing a bunch of your shots that the worse spot (least creative) for your SB800 to be is on the camera... you're in a studio, not shooting on the fly with rapid changing light conditions... shape the light to your advantage.

To remove and replace the back to change orientation on my Arca Swiss Discovery takes about...2 seconds. You can also remove part of the back to expose the Graflock clips...in about 1 second.

My experience (and the way it appears to look to me) is that an image viewed at 100% is EXACTLY what you will see in the print..

David,

 

It's not that it's a bad idea mixing light sources; it's just that there are restrictions in the scenario that you want so it won't work so well.

 

I guess you need to decide if you want a dedicated system for indoor portrait/ glamour photography with more light power for the buck or something that's a little less powerful but more versatile and can be used for other things as well. Sounds like the later for you since this will be your entire equipment for now. Perhaps one mono light and one speedlight?

 

You can mix any light sources you want with simple pc cords if you have too. Consider the difficulty in adding light-shaping accessories to a speedlight if that's what you get- it's easier on a strobe. You don't really need a meter anymore since you can check your exposure with the picture or histogram in the camera LCD. Scrap the TTL feature for studio work- the lighting doesn't change unless you change it yourself so get use to manual mode. Get the flash off the camera.

 

I don't have one, but check our Alien Bees...

 

Best of luck.

David,

 

My main objection to your setup is the mixed light sources. But not with the color or quality of light, but rather with the output differences, the way you intend to use them and the restrictions you will have.

 

Without going into specific lighting arrangements, (because there is obviously more than one way,) if you are going to use a mono light(s), you might as well take the flash off the camera. You know all you need is a hotshoe/ pc adaptor for your D70 right? I use mine through a soft box on a stand but you can use an umbrella as well. You can use your SB's for side, accent or background lighting. With three strobes, you will be more versatile than with two stobes and two hot lights.

 

You probably can get two mono lights and one speedlite on the same budget which may be even a better setup for you... but hey, it's your call.

David,

 

With your hot lights positioned into an umbrella and far from your subject, the light output will be nothing more than ambient light. If you take a meter reading without the flash and just the hot lights, you will see how slow your reading is. Maybe the speed will be acceptable to you.

 

To get the highest output from hot lights (in your case just two) and to match it to the flash, the hot lights have to be as close as possible to the subject to retain a fast shutter setting. The positioning of the hot lights is obviously restricted. If you want to even out the lighting but keep the hot lights far (in your case into and umbrella,) you have to turn down the power of the flash (because you can't power up the hot lights) but you will have a slower speed. If you want full flash output and keep the hot lights far, you have to drag the shutter and the hot light output will just be ambient light. That is because the output of a flash is WAY brighter and hot lights are too weak. You need a lot of hot lights to match a small flash/ strobe. It just doesn't appear that way because the duration of a flash is very brief and hot lights are just, well... hot.

 

If I were on a budget, I'd just get one mono light instead of the hot lights to go along with the flash units because it will be much more versatile. If you must have the setup you mentioned, I think it will be easier to use the hot lights as you main and your flash into the umbrella... but with that setup, you might as well use all hot lights.

Depends how far the hot lights are to your subject.

 

It can work but since the hot lights aren't your main light source, you will have to adjust output of the flash units way down for the hot lights to have any affect. Depending on the positioning of the hot lights, you will have to drag the shutter speed pretty slow. It brings up other obstacles like ambient light and body movement.