flatulent1

<p>It is a lovely p&s, I just wish Minolta had better decisions. </p>

<p>Several years ago I had 14 of these cameras. I wasn't particularly impressed by anything that came out of any of them. If you got good results then it may mean I need to find a better lab!</p>

<p>My first serious camera was a Canon T90. Used it for seven or eight years, studied photography with it at university, traveled with it, took some of my best pictures with it. Wonderful camera. Knew it inside and out. Finally sold it for an autofocus SLR, but the new camera was definitely a step down and was nowhere near as agile as the T90. </p>

<p>Fifteen or so years later I discovered cameras on ebay, and now have several lovely, fully functioning T90s that are my go-to cameras for just about everything except wet weather photography. I haven't used my 5D seriously for several years. My camera bag these days almost always has a T90 and EOS M in it.</p>

<p>Ordinarily I would recommend the T90 for just about anything/everything. But it doesn't do metered manual except in stopped-down mode, and it has a vertical LED scale instead of the swing needle. Reliability? I have five that are fully functional and cause me no problems at all.</p>

<p>Your best option is one of the F-1 models or the FTb, great cameras. The FTb is fully manual, which has never bothered me. I am embarrassed to say I don't remember if the first two F-1 models have Av modes or not. (I can't recommend the EF; the power switch is located directly under my right thumb and I'm always switching the damned thing off when I lift it to my face to shoot. Apart from that little design feature, it's a good camera.)</p>

<p>Gotta remember though that just about any camera of that vintage is going to need servicing, so best consider that cost when you shop.</p>

<p>All of my bodies, some with lenses, sit in felt Crown Royal bags. (It's amazing what you can find on eBay.) They breathe, keep the dust off, and make me look like I drink too much. Keeping bodies and lenses in too-enclosed of a space promotes mold growth if the humidity is right.</p>

<p>Ah. </p>

<p>That is quite an unknown camera. From that I gather that it was nearly the very last one produced/marketed by Samsung before their switch to digital, and was likely not a big seller. I found <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115460">ONE forum posting</a> about it (apart from your own at apug) and no new information. I can only suggest playing with it and seeing what happens.</p>

<p>My only surmise would be that's the button you press to take a picture through a train window, so the AF focuses on the scenery instead of on the window's dirt, and the flash doesn't go off illuminating the nose prints. But why call it 'snap'?</p>

 

<p>Is this a digital camera? This is a film camera forum. I would suggest trying another forum, but I can't seem to find an appropriate one...</p>

<p>Your best bet I think is to search out a manual online.</p>

<p>I've used it successfully for several years, first with the EOS 3, then later with the 7NE and IIe. Never had a problem getting it to work for me, calibrating it was simple. Canon points out in their camera manuals that ECF becomes more accurate and reliable the more times (and more different conditions) that you calibrate the camera. To make matters even more entertaining, I'm left-eyed and wear bifocals. ECF has been nearly 100% reliable for me.</p>

<p>However, I have no practical use for ECF. I'm one of those who sticks to the center focus point exclusively even on my 1V. I really couldn't say why though, I think the technology is marvelous. It's just how my brain works.</p>

<p>He's done one or two T90s and an EOS 1 for me, excellent work and good prices. I wonder if I otter send him my 20-35 with the loose focus ring...</p>

<p>An unfortunate story with a happy ending. I would feel exactly as you do; upset with the seller, delighted with the repaired lens. I would also try to file a claim with ebay, in an attempt to recover some of the repair cost. It may not work, and in your case it may be too late to attempt anything.</p>

<p>T90 and just about any lens does it for me. My favorite zooms are the FD28-85 and FD80-200L and are great for mindless shooting. Single focal length lenses force me to think about what I want to shoot, and why. The primes I use most are the 17/4, 24/1.4L, 35 Thorium, 85/1.2L, 100/4 Macro, and 135/2. The 35 Thorium is a deep yellow now, and is fabulous for black and white shots.</p>

<p>In short, I don't have a single favorite lens.</p>

<p>Grey, I just love the expression on the dog's face. Priceless!</p>

<p>Any good deal can become a bad deal if you have to pay to repair a camera you weren't expecting to repair. The best deal will not necessarily get you the best camera.</p>

<p>Dave has a lot of good points, though I take exception to number 4. Getting 120 developed and scanned isn't any more difficult than 35mm if you have a lab nearby that does it, something that you need to take into consideration as you make your choice.</p>

<p>I also dispute the 'rich man's pursuit' comment. The prices are fairly comparable, the number of frames favor 35mm, the negative size favors 120. The bottom line is for almost the same amount of money you get a little less than half as many film frames with somewhat more than twice the quality. The decision here is philosophical, rather than financial. </p>

<p>The 7N/7NE is the latest model. I don't know what the differences are between the 7/7E and the 7N/7NE, that list is online somewhere. One difference I can tell you is the top deck LCD on the 7N/7NE is illuminated, where the older one is not.</p>

<p>I have a pair of 7NE. Wonderful cameras.</p>

<p>Yeah, I'm with Mark. I use the 28-85 a lot more than the 35-105. Those two lenses are so good any differences between them will come down to shooting technique.</p>

<p>I reduced my FD accumulation by giving away everything that wasn't a T90 or F-1. That left me with a pair of F-1 and nine T90, plus an FTbn found lurking in a quiet corner.</p>

<p>I kept all my L lenses, the macro lenses, and a few older FDs with the 55mm filter ring, to use on the FTbn. </p>

<p>If I *really* wanted to minimize, I'd have kept one F-1 plus three primes, period. But I could never be that rash. I love my T90s, and I use all the FDs on my EOS M.</p>

<p>The A-1 almost WAS my first film camera, back in 1985. However I delayed long enough that the T90 was released and I jumped all over that one, something I have never regretted. </p>

<p>Load the film into the camera. That roll of film is a combination of your digital sensor and SD card, with only one ISO option. Otherwise ISO is selected (by choosing a particular film) for the same reasons as with digital. Expose, develop, scan. Depends on your lab. I've been shooting film almost continuously since 1986, and I have no idea if my local lab can/will scan prints. Or what the difference would be. It wouldn't hurt to ask questions, I suppose.</p>

<p>Gordon is correct, the rectangular EOS diopters (as well as the eyecups) will fit the rectangular FD eyepieces. I used several on my T90s, AT-1, and FTb with no issues.</p>

<p>I've always heard that the 85 1.2 was designed as a professional portrait lens, with its emphasis on the separation of foreground from background. Well, that's what it's famous for these days. As for 'why'... Just about every manufacturing company on the planet is in business to make money, period. The products they make are a means to that end. No doubt the techies at Canon solved an optical problem, but was it their idea first? Or was it Marketing's suggestion? It's hard to say, as there were so many variables to factor in, such as Canon's market position versus Nikon's, the race to be the first to produce whatever, the desire to have the very best, and of course the bottom line: making as much money as they can. </p>

<p>An interesting question: Did they have a battery of professional photographers and art directors advising them as to the kind of gear they'd like to be using? They probably do these days, but back in the 70s?</p>

<p>(For what it's worth, I think Leitz was the only camera/lens manufacturer who were more interested in producing the very best of everything, and let the bottom line fall where it will.)</p>

<p>I shoot a fair amount of black and white; my heavily yellowed lens needs no yellow filter!</p>

<p>I've never used the FI on mine. My eyesight isn't the best, but I have no issue focusing manually. I'd say just ignore it, unless it matters.</p>

<p>I'm not familiar enough with the T70 that I can speak with any intelligence, but I'm not going to let that stop me. The only thing I can think of is the stop-down lever may be engaged. Otherwise it's probably time for a professional cleaning.</p>

<p>Oh, great. I feel another bout of GAS coming on.</p>

<p>A 50/1.4 or 50/1.8 would be a good start. If you like street shooting, then a 28/2.0 is very good; 28/2.8 are cheap and plentiful.</p>

<p>Have you tried shooting a roll with the Tokina? That's a pretty nice lens, though a better one would be the Canon 28-85, which is excellent.</p>

<p>Also, a word of warning about batteries... When you find one for an old camera, and especially if they have to hunt around to find it, check the expiration date before you pay over your hard-earned cash. The last time I tried to buy an unusual battery they tried to sell me one three years past its expiration date. I handed it back and asked them to try again.</p>

<p>Yes, the three versions of F-1, and even the EF, are almost considered collectible, and fetch a fairly high price. It's worth it though, if that's what you want.</p>

<p>That's great news, I could never get him to acknowledge me. Maybe it's time to try yet again...</p>

<p>The best of the latest, in your price range, would be the FTb and FTbn. Fully manual, battery powers the meter only; if you don't use the meter, you won't need the battery. The battery for these is the no-longer-available mercury cell, though there are ways around that if you do a little research. The price of those bodies could well be in the $20 range; add to that the cost of a good CLA (which, after all this time, it will surely need) and you're up near your limit.</p>

<p>I second Louis' recommendation of the T90. Not at all fully manual, it is fully electronic in the modern style, takes four AA batteries, and shoots like a dream. The body can be had for under $100, CLA adds $125 and is well worth it. I have several.</p>