derek_jecxz
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Posts posted by derek_jecxz
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<p>Miles (wow, you posted your review 5 separate times on photo.net!),</p>
<p>Your information regarding the Hasselblad H3D in cold temperatures is very inaccurate. I regularly shoot in well below freezing temps with the H3D (and the H2 prior) without any failure. In fact, I did my ice fishermen series on frozen lakes and rivers exclusively with the H3DII39.</p>
<p>I have plenty of other snow/ice photographs, obviously made in very inclement weather conditions. I have used the H2 in temps around -18F, sadly, I failed to function, not the H camera. I have worked with the H in temps as high as 114F, no issues.</p>
<p>The 32 degree temp rating from Hasselblad is the Kodak sensor temp rating specified by Kodak.</p>
<p>Please correct your otherwise good review and thank you for posting it. Be well.</p>
<p>Kind regards,</p>
<p>Derek Jecxz<br />
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<p>Miles,</p>
<p>Good review, however, your information regarding the Hasselblad H3D in cold temperatures is very inaccurate. I regularly shoot in well below freezing temps with the H3D (and the H2 prior) without any failure. In fact, I did my ice fishermen series on frozen lakes and rivers exclusively with the H3DII39.</p>
<p>I have plenty of other snow/ice photographs, obviously made in very inclement weather conditions. I have used the H2 in temps around -18F, sadly, I failed to function, not the H camera. I have worked with the H in temps as high as 114F, no issues.</p>
<p>The 32 degree temp rating from Hasselblad is the Kodak sensor temp rating specified by Kodak.</p>
<p>Please correct your otherwise good review and thank you for posting it. Be well.</p>
<p>Kind regards,</p>
<p>Derek Jecxz<br /><a href="http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer">http://</a><a href="http://www.jecxz.com">www.jecxz.com</a><br /><a href="http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer">http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer</a></p>
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<p><strong>Menu -> Settings -> System Status -> Next</strong></p>
<p>Will yield the Body exposure count.</p>
<p>Kind regards,</p>
<p>Derek Jecxz</p>
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<p>I have considerable experience with H2's, having shot over 30,000 frames before switching to digital capture. There could be several issues here: 1) if my memory is correct the film back does not read Kodak DX codes; 2) check the exposure compensation set on the viewfinder (there's a button on the right side) 3) what is your metering mode (spot, average, center)? 3) Were you on manual exposure or a program?</p>
<p>Kind regards,</p>
<p>Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Joe,</p>
<p>Most certainly use ND grads to enhance your photographs. Combine them with your polarizer too. As also said, use rectangular filters, such as Lee. For your 50-110mm lens you'll need the Lee 100mm Push On Filter Holder:</p>
<p>I use grad filters for many photographs. Good luck with your H2.</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Hi Brian,</p>
<p>Download the H manual at:</p>
<p>If the focus screen came cracked I'd be extremely worried about the impact on the H that caused it to crack. While it's rock solid, a cracked part would be cause for alarm.</p>
<p>It's very easy to remove the focus screen; remove the viewfinder, locate the loop type arm on the grip side of the screen and lift out with a pen or small tool.</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br />
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<p>The answer is there is no right answer; I personally like what John wrote.<br /><br /> Don't restrict yourself to someone else's definition; define it yourself, with your photographs.<br /><br /> Kind regards,<br />Derek Jecxz
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<p>For me it's my HC 35mm lens which I use on my film H2, scanned with a Nikon 9000, and my H3DII39 camera:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=reflection_by_derek_jecxz.jpg"><img src="http://www.jecxz.com/images/portfolio/2007/thumbs/reflection_by_derek_jecxz.jpg" alt="" width="153" height="115" /></a> <br /><a href="http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=reflection_by_derek_jecxz.jpg">Cartwright, Labrador 2007</a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=shore_ripples_by_derek_jecxz.jpg"><img src="http://www.jecxz.com/images/portfolio/2009/thumbs/shore_ripples_by_derek_jecxz.jpg" alt="" width="153" height="115" /></a> <br /><a href="http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=shore_ripples_by_derek_jecxz.jpg">Fortescue, New Jersey 2009</a><br>
<br />Kind regards,<br />Derek Jecxz<br />
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<p>Simon,</p>
<p>Congrats! I believe you will be quite satisfied with the quality. I'm also pleased with their Phocus software too, email me if you have any questions, or join <a href="http://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com">http://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com</a> - a very helpful and friendly forum. By the way, both versions of the weathered covered bridge were done with the 1.7x and 210mm. Be well.</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
<a href="http://www.jecxz.com/">http://www.jecxz.com/</a></p>
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<p>Simon, I use an H3DII39 for my work and I'm very pleased with the quality. I think you would be too. I chose the H3DII39 over PhaseOne because of the integration, the single source system (wouldn't want finger pointing if there was a problem) and future expansion, such as new lenses and the HTS. I recommend that you go with the H3DII, not the H3D. The H3DII has a heat sink and no fan plus the LCD is much larger.</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Shot with an H2 and either 35mm or 50-110mm lens using Fuji Provia 400 in October 2007.<br>
Frost can form on the camera and lens within 10 - 20 minutes depending on conditions.<br>
Experiment with exposure ranging from 30 seconds to 4 minutes.<br>
Bring warm clothing and good luck!</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Kevin,</p>
<p>I use an H3DII39 for my work. You should demo or rent both systems before making a final decision.</p>
<p>I suspect you will be much happier with the H because the viewfinder is much brighter, LCD is 3", it's a nicely integrated system and the support from Hasselblad has been fantastic.</p>
<p>I switched from Canon to H in 2005 and I'm very happy that I did.</p>
<p>Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Jeff will probably answer all of your questions, but if you need additional answers, perhaps I can be helpful if necessary. I also shoot with an H3DII39.<br>
Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>I have used both (and I currently own both).<br>
You can email me off-line if you have specific questions: <a href="mailto:derek@jecxz.com">derek@jecxz.com</a><br>
Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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<p>Evan,<br>
I use a Nikon 9000 and switched to Scanscience fluid scanning (645) to primarily avoid the newtonian rings that I was getting with the anti-NR glass film holder. This was my primary reason.<br>
I noticed only a slight improvement in sharpness, however, scanning without ICE was a slight improvement and getting rid of the NRs was a big plus. I did show the individual at Scanscience my results and, if I recall correctly, he was shocked that I was not getting more sharpness from the fluid scans.<br>
One issue I had was dust on the film. Try to remove any dust or particles that will get into the fluid.<br>
When scanning film, I scan with fluid for the reasons stated above.<br>
Kind regards,<br>
Derek Jecxz<br>
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You can (and I do) still get Newtonian Rings with the strips - and I use the strips with the glass holder as specified in the manual. Actually, I don't think I've tried it without the strips in the glass holder.
These Newtonian Rings can be a huge issue.
Either way, get the glass holder. I could never get the film flat with the supplied holder (the holder that comes with the 9000) and the edges are often blurry.
Hopefully you will not have NRs. Good luck!
Kind regards,
Derek
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I find that 60% to 80% of the time the glass holder produces Newtonian Rings - which destroy the image. Sometimes I don't get them, sometimes it is impossible to get rid of them. They are a big problem nonetheless. You will get these too.
Now I wet scan my 645 and my 617 transparencies using the film holder that came with the 9000. I use a glass plate and a thin clear strip and the quality is fantastic. I purchase from Scan Science (http://scanscience.com/) but there are other companies.
I seriously suggest that you look into wet scanning. It is easy after some trial and error and it smells great! Best of luck to you.
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
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Yes it scans 6x17 and I've done so with transparency film I've shot with a FUJI 617. As mentioned above, it scans it
into two halves that you have to merge together in Photoshop. You can get beautiful results. Once you get
comfortable with the process, it's easy. Email me privately if you need some tips. Good luck.
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
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Anthony,
The post above is correct, from a web image it is difficult to see the quality of an MF scan. While I switched to digital
this year, almost all of my photographs on my website (http://www.jecxz.com) are 645 scans using a Nikon 9000
with the glass tray carrier - about 1/3 of them wet scanned. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
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The H3DII31 is a camera that is available today, with a full lens line-up that is available today. It has a proven track record. Additionally, on the horizon is a new zoom lens and their new tilt-shift adapter, the HTS. Their new software Phocus has already been released for Mac and soon to be released for PC.
To me the choice is clear, but if you want more insight I suggest visiting: http://www.luminous-landscape.com and perhaps posting the same question there. Good luck with your choice and be well.
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
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It could be two things:
1) Make sure the correct frame size is set in NikonScan in the upper left hand corner.
2) If the frame is off slightly, use the Offset Adjustment in the control panel (I believe that is the title, I don't have the software open right now), adjust it a few left or right then hit refresh and that should update the thumbnails to let you know if you're moving in the right direction. This step should be performed only if the correct frame size is set as I mentioned in #1 above.
I am not aware of any way of scanning the entire strip of film, max seems to be 6x9.
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
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Same set up as you (Nikon 9000) and I'm also very pleased with the results. I began wet scanning about a year ago
and I rapidly got used to the few extra minutes in prep. My only complaints (minor) are bubbles and dust - but it is
the best alternative to Newtonian Rings -- which were ruining many scans -- in addition to the benefits already
mentioned above.
I am wet scanning my remaining exposed film (I've gone digital) and I use Lumina from Scan Science - they are very
helpful -- http://www.scanscience.com
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com
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Hi Jeff, I hope all is well with you.
The light blue was from waves breaking on and towards the shore. The sunset was long over and it was overcast so there wasn't too much light. The sky was slightly brighter over my right shoulder as I am facing east in this shot.
If you look at the meta data of the jpg it may explain things a bit: It was a 32 second exposure (you've heard me complaining enough about needing longer exposure--this is a perfect example) at F10 (which is wide open for me). I also was at 50 ISO. The waves had a light froth to them. I think this is what you are asking about, correct?
What I can't believe is the detail I got at F10 - clearly this has to do with the H, I can't take credit for that. I also think I sharpened in Flexcolor.
Believe it or not, I'm still back logged with film from my H2s going back to last October! Speak with you soon.
Kind regards,
Derek
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Here are two photographs that I made with my H3DII39:
http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=twilight_beach_by_derek_jecxz.jpg
http://www.jecxz.com/?photograph=sunset_reflection_by_derek_jecxz.jpg
Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com
Pentax 645d vs 5Dmk2
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Miles (wow, you posted your review 5 separate times on photo.net!),</p>
<p>Your information regarding the Hasselblad H3D in cold temperatures is very inaccurate. I regularly shoot in well below freezing temps with the H3D (and the H2 prior) without any failure. In fact, I did my ice fishermen series on frozen lakes and rivers exclusively with the H3DII39.</p>
<p>I have plenty of other snow/ice photographs, obviously made in very inclement weather conditions. I have used the H2 in temps around -18F, sadly, I failed to function, not the H camera. I have worked with the H in temps as high as 114F, no issues.</p>
<p>The 32 degree temp rating from Hasselblad is the Kodak sensor temp rating specified by Kodak.</p>
<p>Please correct your otherwise good review and thank you for posting it. Be well.</p>
<p>Kind regards,</p>
<p>Derek Jecxz<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer" target="_blank">http://</a><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.jecxz.com/" target="_blank">www.jecxz.com</a><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer" target="_blank">http://www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer</a></p>