nicholas marrone

I used to own a Canon 8000f and was not very pleased with it. I bought it instead of a dedicated film scanner because I wanted to scan 120 film. This is possible because the backlight is large enough but you have to fool the scanner into doing it for you and make your own 120 film holder. For photos it does a pretty good job, as good as any other flatbed scanner I've used. For film it is very slow and the results are not very good. Even scanning at low resolution takes too long for my taste and at higher resolution it takes over 10 minutes per picture. Also, the software stinks. One of the most irritating things about it on my computer was that it always wanted to blow up each photo to 3000% so I had to manually select each one and change it to 100%. I recommend you skip it and get something else.

Thanks for the assistance. No, I am not a smoker, but the problem started after I went to the beach one day. I changed the lens once but was very careful about letting sand get in. Maybe I wasn't careful enough. It looks like it needs a cleaning and adjustment.

Hello,

 

I am having a problem now with two different cameras and was

wondering if anybody could shed some light on the situation. The

problem existed with the EM intermittently and now completely and my

FE developed the same problem last weekend very suddenly. I am not

sure what happened.

 

The problem is that when an AI lens pushes the AI tab over from the

widest aperature and then goes back to wide open, the AI tab does

not spring, snap back into place. I tried to take off the mounting

ring to see whether dirt or sand had gotten inside somehow and, with

the ring off, the mechanism works fine. With the ring on loosely it

still works. With the ring on snugly it stops. With the ring on

loosely and the weight of a lens on it it stops.

 

Any help is appreciated.

Sorry to sidetrack this thread:

 

Taka, where do you buy a new F100 for $750 in Japan? Yodobashi Camera and their ilk cost more than $750 even after the dollar/yen conversion and %15 in points.

My buddy uses a Maxxum 7 and it does indeed have a nice viewfinder. I am comparing this to my Nikon FE.

I have a lower model, the 8000f, and I really don't have much good to say about it. It scans slides okay, but it does not handle the color cast of negs very well. The details look fuzzy when scanning 35mm. The software is AWFUL!!! and there is no photoshop twain plugin for Windows XP. The reason I purchased this scanner instead of a dedicated 35mm scanner is because I also scan 66 and you can trick the software into scanning it also although it is not officially supported.

 

Oh, and the most important detail for you is that it is incredibly slow. It takes over 15 minutes per 35mm frame on the highest resolution and lower resolutions are proportionally slow. If you are scanning hundreds of pictures or even hundreds of rolls of film I recommend that you get a dedicated 35mm scanner.

If one was using two different lenses, how does DOF work in relation to the two lenses being stopped down? For instance, you have a 200/4 at f/4 with a 50/1.8 at f/8 attached. Would the DOF be different if the 200 was at f/8 and the 50 was at f/4? Furthermore, is it possible that only one of the two lenses controls DOF at all? Can one still focus with the 200mm lens?

About nobody wanting the new Kodak camera, I know some people at a very large design firm in Tokyo who have been using one and can't wait to get their hands on more.

Thanks for the commentary. I tested my meter somewhat against my Nikon meter, but I still want to test it under more light conditions to check if it is consistently under. There is an adjustment screw on the back of the meter and I moved it so that it gives me results accurate with the Nikon. BTW, the meter is a Sekonic L-28c ambient light meter. It is probably just as old as the Mamiya C22, so I would guess the components inside it have changed with time.

 

My next step is to shoot a roll of slide film so I can see more accurately where the meter is on and off.

 

About the B&W prints being too contrasty, I will ask the lab how they were printed and look at the negs under a loupe. I do not like the Ilford film, it looks creamy to me. All this has to wait until I go to Tokyo next week so I can actually buy the film I plan on using!

 

Nick

Hello,

 

Just wanted to mention how happy I am. I inherited a Mamiya C22 from

my father with the 80mm 2.8 and 135mm 4.5 lenses a couple years ago,

but because I was just starting to get into photography I completley

ignored it because I moved to Japan and so I could use my Nikon

camera. To make a long story short, I finally started using it and

have shot 3 rolls of 120, and the results have been fantastic! 2

rolls of Fuji NPC and 1 of Fuji ISO 100 B&W taken at a famous rock

formation in Fukui, Japan (where I live. In case you're wondering

where in Japan that is, I believe it has been in the news lately

because some of the kidnappings occurred here). The rock formation is

also famous for its suicides. I am using a Sekonic lightmeter which

is equally as old as the camera.

 

Some questions and worries:

 

1. As you know, this camera is old, as is the light meter. When

comparing it to my Nikon FE light meter, the Sekonic seems to

recommend a shorter exposure. Of course, the methods of metering are

totally different. For the pictures I took, I usually upped the

exposure one stop. The pictures exposures don't seem to be tack on,

but then again, I was using print film. Next I'd like to shoot slide

film, but...

 

2. If I shot slide film, how much would a projector for MF cost? I

have never actually seen one. My father doesn't have one, either.

 

3. The B&W shots seem to be much too contrasty, whereas the color

shots are better. Could it be the lab that I used? I did not develop

or print these myself (access to a lab in Japan is super-expensive,

like many other things. It's ridiculous).

 

Thanks for reading,

 

Nick

I live in Japan and there are some new Canon flatbed scanners with FARE on them at 2400 dpi. The models only officially support 35mm, but the transparency portion appears big enough to do MF. You might want to look into these, I think they'll be out this month.

I only wish I had the money you do, and I'm 23!!! I also use a Nikon FE with the Series E 50mm, but have a 28mm 2.8D and 105mm 2.8 Micro D also. Lots of good advice so far, but the thing you want to ask yourself is do you need more features or do you need more glass? Having only 2 lenses, I would think you would lean towards more glass. Besides, as I understand it, the F100 doesn't even have mirror lock up which the FE sort of does. Another problem with the F100 is you really won't get to use most of the new features because you have manual lenses (no AF, no D, no matrix metering, etc...).

Looks like you've done a bit of research before asking. I, too, had been wanting a macro lens for a long while and ended up purchasing the Nikon 105mm, which I am very happy with. I got it used for 50,000 yen, which is about $400 U.S. The reason I decided to put out the cash for a macro lens was because 1. it is more convenient to shoot with then extension tubes and bellows, especially when you are chasing around insects or small animals, and 2. it doubles as a short telephoto and portrait lens. I'd like to buy a soft filter to put on the end of this.

 

I am happy with the lens because I find it to be very sharp and the pictures I have taken with it so far have been very colorful. The lens is also not very big or heavy. Having 1:1 magnification is unbelievable! I put the lens on a tripod and shoot slide film.

 

The one thing I don't like about the lens (and I found this to be true of the 3 lenses I tried out) is that the aperture ring is a little bit loose -- it doesn't click into place as my other lenses do.

 

BTW, I have no flash, but haven't had any troubles yet. I shoot in the morning or evening.

 

Happy hunting,

 

Nick

Not sure if this answers your question, but:

 

I also use the 105 micro AF-D, but on a Nikon FE with no flash, so my setup is all manual. I shoot 100 or 50 speed slides using a tripod early in the morning or on cloudy days. I also find that when shooting pictures of light colored flowers they are underexposed.

 

Could it be that because you are shooting a light colored object, the meter is making too light of an exposure calculation? For instance, if you point a spot meter at a white object in the photograph it should turn out grey. Because the light colored flower takes up most or all of the frame, you would need to apply exposure compensation to expose the flower properly whether you are using flash or not.

 

Nick

I think that the older ones do, but many of the _newer_, electronic models such as the 8008 do not (they have no threads). I know that my FE works with a generic brand cable release.