silvio_b

<p>Although many of you here gave reasonable and reliable suggestions, IMHO the question is not if you'll refund the $200 deposit (or whatever you want to call it) but if they ask you to shoot the whole wedding and than sue you for damages higher than you can imagine. They will not like the pictures (for sure) and will want full refund for the whole wedding including the cake plus whatever punitive damages. Now can you handle that? I will ask first for some written notice of cancellation from the person who signed the contract with you and then send them the notice about your decision of non-refundable fee, whatever that will be...<br>

Good luck to you in your decision, Silvio.</p>

I bought from them in the last 15 years (Nikon and Leica) but lately their customer service is getting really bad. Some of them don't speak and/or understand English anymore and their used department rating it's two marks inflated, at least. So let say if you buy a 10 item, you'll get an EX from KEH. They lost me this year for good and I don't plan to go back soon. Sorry, but I'll rather spend more money at a local store instead of dealing again with customer service that I understand only 10% of their terrible accent and have the items shipped 2-3 days after I got charged. BTW Adorama it's even worse.

Good luck to all of you shopping there, Silvio.

I do use SB-600 with F4 and is a good combination, but you'll loose second curtain sync and auto aperture flash. You'll gain extra coverage for wide angles and less bulk on top of the camera.

 

Silvio

Nikon 55mm F:/3.5 Ai<div></div>

Nikon 60mm ED AF-S<div></div>

I have Nikkor 55/3.5, Nikkor 60/2.8 ED AF-S, Tokina ATX 100/2.8 pro and Sigma 150/2.8 EX HSM with Sigma 1.4 APO TC.

Here are my opinions for macro work (on full frame film and D300 DX format):

-Sigma is the best in terms of contrast, resolution, bokeh, speed, working distance (not so excellent with 1.4 APO TC) and some sample variations (one came with internal element scratched and focus limiter working sometimes only)

-Nikkor 60/2.8 ED AF-S a little better contrast, but quite visible CA and a little bit soft at the edges, very fast but short working distance.

-Tokina ATX 100/2.8 pro is a very good lens with uniform resolution and contrast for the whole frame except high CA, good but not excellent focus speed.

 

Please note that f:/2.8 is at infinity only, once you focus closer you'll get 3.x to 5.6 for any of them.

 

Hope this will help, Silvio<div></div>

Cropped to the focused area.<div></div>

For those (frequently) asking about this lens here is a shot taken with it and

a PN-11 extension tube. For details, save it and ask for properties.

 

Silvio<div></div>

Hope you'll not get offended for manipulating your picture.

Silvio<div></div>

Partial Lunar Eclipse<div></div>

Irony or not, his picture sucks big time regardless of the equipment he used or if he can print it 40"x60" without any quality loss. But hey, doesn't matter as long as LEICA was used.

 

Regards, Silvio

Boy, it really pays off to buy $6000 Leica for macro work.

Silvio<div></div>

another one<div></div>

And here is a $300 digital P&S macro shot. It really worth to pay $2500 for that macro Elmar. Duh...

Silvio<div></div>

I got one and let me tell you about the lens: it's really very good. JPEG processing very good between iso 100-400, good @ 800 and ok for 1600. If you use RAW, which I do, even 1600 is perfectly usable. I bought it before any reviews came up and I don't feel sorry. I'm waiting for some lenses to show on the market and I'll not buy any Olympus lenses because of the lack of image stabilizer and aperture ring. Here is a recent photo I took with it.<div></div>

Bryce Canyon<div></div>