richc

<p>Another thumbs up for Malcolm...</p>

<p>He's serviced the following lenses from me in the past two years: Summilux 35mm pre-asph, Summilux 50mm pre-asph, 50mm Summicron collapsible, Tele-emarit 90mm, Canon 50mm/f1.2. All to an impeccable standard. He also modified the 35mm pre-asph so it'd fit on my Leica M8.</p>

<p>I've no hesitation in recommending him to service any Leica...</p>

<p>Good for making a bit of cash, though (mercenary, me... !). I had the current (and out of print) Osterloh book, which I bought for £20 about two years ago.</p>

<p>It's a good book and I would've kept it, but I gave in to temptation: put it on Amazon for £150 (still a ridiculous price, but undercutting other copies on sale), and sold it after a couple of weeks!</p>

<p>I've since bought the penultimate edition, which is vastly cheaper and covers pretty much the same material with the exception of the M7 and a few lenses...</p>

<p>I share my office with a second-hand bookseller - he says that pricing (excepting books with a well-known value) is based on availability. If a book is out of print and has a low print run, then the price is hoiked up as far as it can go, regardless of its worth. It's easy to search online these days to get an idea of the rarity of a title, which wasn't the case in pre-Internet days, when second-hand book prices were often dictated by the book itself (e.g. interest to buyers, such as what subject its on and how well written) and were typically lower.<br>

So, a book doesn't have to be good or sought after for whatever reason, to have a high price - just uncommon and out of print (perhaps simply because it's a rubbish book that ended up in the bargain bin!).</p>

<p>My Summilux 35/1.4 Pre-Asph. (Canadian - made in 1969) wouldn't focus to infinity because the shroud fouled the camera's lens throat (which is narrower than film M's to accommodate the battery). The shroud only just fouls, so I suspect that whether a particular lens is OK or not is down to simple manufacturing variation between lenses.</p>

<p>My solution was to machine 1 mm off the shroud (see sketch). Malcolm Taylor (British Leica expert) did the machining for me whilst servicing the lens. The shroud's ability to protect the rear elements is not affected.</p>

<p>The photo shows the machined shroud. (Note also the coding pits that I did myself by hand - Malcolm Taylor can now mill these more neatly by machine.)<br>

<img src="http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/871/shroudmod.png" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9462/lenscodingdremelnotessu.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="492" /></p>

<p>First, lenses with eyes work fine - the M9 (and M8) viewfinder windows etc are identical to the M6 TTL and M7.</p>

<p>And I can answer the 35mm Summilux question: see my posts in this thread, esp. post 15: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49382</p>

<p>So, your lens will work but it depends whether or not you care about collecting. Not only have I machined my Summilux but I've also milled M8 coding pits - and my lens is apparently uncommon (black 1969 mount but with an infinity lock)!</p>

<p>The M9 (unlike the M8) has a lens selection menu so although 6-bit coding is still desirable (automatic lens detection), it's not essential, so you don't <em>have</em> to turn your lenses into Swiss cheese...!</p>

<p>You need one of these from eBay! http://snipurl.com/nl4bp The price varies, so search for the cheapest - they all appear to be identical.</p>

<p>I use one with my Leica M8, and it's reliable and conveniently small.</p>

<p>Tips:</p>

<p>(1) buy some spare batteries (cheap rechargeable ones from China via eBay are ideal), as you will, sooner or later, leave the part that goes on the flash switched on, flattening the battery</p>

<p>(2) if it doesn't fire, check the micro switch positions match on each part - the switches can get knocked, putting the parts on different radio channels.</p>

<p>Yes, Fed-2, probably mad in the 1960s, that has been turned into a fake Leica by srtipping off the chrome plating and original engraving: http://www.rus-camera.com/camera.php?page=fed&camera=fed2</p>

<p>Interesting as a curio and no reason why it shouldn't work (the tarnished brass makes it look morebeat up than it probably is!), though Soviet quality control was ... well, somewhat slack, and the camera is 40 years old. Not worth much.</p>

<p>It is - http://www.adorama.com/LCLH5028M.html?searchinfo=12550</p>

<p>I'm sure I've seen it around (can't recall where) for a lot less than 80 bucks new...</p>

<p>"Rainburst" (Epson R-D1)<br>

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/242/524622019_eff30253f7_o.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thanks everyone. I couldn't get hold of a fresnel spot (typically, someone gave me one afterwards! <rolls eyes>).<br /> <br /> Had to do a bit of lateral thinking to achieve what I wanted, so, in case it helps anyone else, this is what I did - a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked! It might seem an awful lot of effort, but I was determined to get the shot I'd envisaged: an old shelf in a dusty attic, gently lit by light coming in through small chinks in the roof...<br /> <br /> The set was small scale, so I thought "smoke in a can" would work. I needed to keep the smoke around the set, so I turned a desk on its side, and covered the the three open sides with card - creating a box with an open front. I then cut a couple of small slits in far right-hand corner of the "top", and positioned a couple of spots above the slits. I place an extra very dim spot in front of the enclosure, for a bit front fill.<br /> I then created the set. The foreground and background in the photograph were to be completely black, so the sides and floor of the enclosure were covered in black velvet. Two planks from an old fence were then balanced on a couple of bricks, and some dead butterflies added (eBay!). I deliberately left a large space behind the planks - the smoke needs to be behind and above the subject<br /> <br /> I then messed around with diffusers and snoots, and the size and shape of the holes in the card until I got what I wanted - gently lit subjects with some backlighting.<br /> <br /> Next, the smoke. I squirted some "smoke in a can", and promptly blew away my carefully placed subjects! <bangs head><br /> <br /> Later, I tried again, more gently, squirting smoke <em>under</em> the planks this time. Better, but the smoke wasn't dense enough. I suddenly remembered that, as a boy, I set fire to some cocoa powder (I have no recollection why!), which didn't burn but smoked - a lot. So, I set fire to some cocoa, which sure enough smouldered and smoked away. That did the trick.<br /> <br /> An here's the shot. I'm not entirely happy with the position of the butterflies - I'm convinced their arrangement was better before I blew them off the plank, but however much I tried, I couldn't reproduce the original positioning!<br>

<br /> Incidentally, you might consider my camera choice for this type of work perverse ... a Leica M8!</p>

<p><img src="http://www.richcutler.co.uk/_pix/butterflies.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thanks - "smoke in a can" now duly ordered. Sounds much more controllable than my ideas! So, that's the haze source sorted!

<p>I didn't look too closely at the example photo - thought it was real, from a v. quick glance. I'm a firm believer in getting it right in front of the lens as much as possible, so, no, I'll not be creating the effect in Photoshop...

<p>If anyone has any further tips on photographing this type of subject, they'll be gratefully received...

<p>The shot I'm after is part of a series I'm doing, a couple of which are below to give you an idea.

<img src="http://www.bhcc-online.org/gallery/d/8927-2/08-03-11+15-04h+19.jpg">

<img src="http://www.bhcc-online.org/gallery/d/4798-2/Still+Life.jpg">

<p>I'm setting up a still life shot evocative of a dusty attic - imagine a forgotten object lit by small beam of

sunlight coming through a chink in the roof, with the surrounding area fading off into the gloom ... the attic's

dusty, so the light beam is clearly visible, as here: <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2185314"

target=_blank>light beam effect</a>

<p>I'll be using some small halogen "hot" lights for lighting.

<p>To get the light beam effect, I'll need make the atmosphere hazy, so I've thought of borrowing a small

nightclub fog generator or setting off a small smoke bomb (the floor's concrete, usefully!).

<p>Any tips and suggestions on pulling this off?

<hr>

<p><b>The manual had a few minor mistakes – download this amended version:</b>

<p><a

href="http://www.mediafire.com/file/jkjzimm3lim/Certo-Six_Manual.pdf">http://www.mediafire.com/file/jkjzimm3lim/Certo-Six_Manual.pdf</a>

<hr>

<p>I've scanned my Certo-Six manual and converted it to a PDF file - so I thought I'd share it. (As I'm an

editor, I felt compelled to tidy up the rather awkward English.)

<p>It can be downloaded from here: <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/file/md2qhmygnyn/Certo-Six Manual.pdf"

target="_blank">http://www.mediafire.com/file/md2qhmygnyn/Certo-Six Manual.pdf</a>

<p>"Digital, in my opinion, is a better learning tool because of the immediate feedback. Once the digital

shooters start to learn the ropes, I think they will be more willing to start shooting film"

<hr>

<p>Me ...

<p>2005 -> buy Canon 10D dSLR and take up photography for the first time

<p>2006 -> sell Canon, buy Epson R-D1 digital rangefinder

<p>2007 -> sell Epson (and my motorbike!), buy Leica M8

<p>2008 -> buy Certo-Six medium-format 6x6 folding camera and start using film for the first time

<p><grin>

<p> 

<p>-=Rich=-

Last line of my post should have read "...suitable alternative <b>batteries</b> for the unobtainable Soviet

original."

<p>I bought a Sverdlovsk-4 exposure meter along with my Iskra. Like the Iskra, I couldn't find an English manual,

only ones in Russian.

<p>So, I created an English translation for my own use - I've just finished tidying it up and I'm releasing it on

the web in case anyone else finds it useful. As well as a straight translation, I've added an addendum

describing, for example, suitable alternatives for the unobtainable Soviet original.

<p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?alutct90o63">Download Sverdlovsk-4 manual (English)</a>

<p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?emzcfei2jhs">Download Iskra manual (English)</a>

<p><b>UPDATED VERSION OF <i>ISKRA</i> MANUAL -- ENGLISH TRANSLATION</b>

<p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?emzcfei2jhs">Download</a>

<b>PS</b>: if anyone spots any typos or other mistakes, email me and/or post them here, and I'll update the

manual in due course.

Well, whilst looking for an English manual, I did find some photos of an Iskra export model, with the "Iskra"

name engraved in English - so, I guess there must be some genuine printed English manuals somewhere... !

<p>I bought a Soviet folding 120 camera last week - an Iskra from 1961. Unfortunately, after thorough searching,

the only instructions available anywhere on the web seem to be in Russian (<a

href="www.zenit.istra.ru/mans/iskra/iskra.html">the original manual</a> from KMZ). :o(</p>

<p>As I've never used a camera made before the 1990s, and until now have used only digital cameras (Canon 10D,

then Epson R-D1, now Leica M8), I really needed some instructions in English!</p>

<p>With the aid of a Russian translator, the manual's now in English. I thought I'd give something back to web,

so I've tided up the Word file and created a PDF version. The file's hosted on MediaFire - and so hopefully will

remain up for a long time.</p>

<p>I hope other Iskra owners will find it useful ...<br><br> </p>

<p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?ytbcwwuupdy"><b>Download English Iskra manual</b></a></p>