kk_hui
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Posts posted by kk_hui
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<p>Jon,<br>
After much research I ended up with Tokina AT-X 16-28 PRO FX for use with my D800 and don't look back. It's a very sharp lens with relatively low distortion. Yes it's heavy at 950g but excellent built.</p>
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<p>Tim,<br>
If you're looking for a 28mm to pair with D800 I'd suggest the AF-S28/1.8G which is a super sharp lens. I've the exact combo and am very pleased with it.</p>
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<p>For serious bird photography I'd suggest going for AF-S 500/4, 1.4x TC and APSC DSLR such as D7100/ D7200 plus a sturdy tripod. For hand-held flight shots 400 would be the minimum and that can be achieved with AF-S 300/4 + 1.4x TC.</p>
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<p>I downloaded the Distortion Control Data Ver. L: 2.005 but notice that the file size, 29kB, is much less that the last version.Wonder if this is correct?!<br />NKLD01009.BIN - 59kB (last version)<br />NKLD02005.BIN - 29kB</p>
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<p>Thanks, Shun!<br>
Indeed the same TC14E is used with my 300/4 and 500/4. All the symptom appears to be pointing to a D7100 problem when coupled to the specific lenses viz AF-S 300/4D and AF-S 80-200/2.8D. I've not call Nikon repair yet.</p>
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<p>I encounter intermittent AF failures (AF just went dead) on my D7100 with the captioned lenses viz AF-S 300/4D (with or without TC14E) and AF-S 80-200/2.8D straight. Both lenses works flawlessly with my other bodies D200 and D800.<br /><br />My D7100 has no AF issue with my AF-S 500/4D (with or without TC14E) and other lenses including the AF-S 28/1.8G and AF-S 300/2.8D (with or without TC14E and TC20E).<br /><br />I've visually checked for lenses alignment, physical fitting and pin contacts (height) and they both appear normal. Contacts were cleaned but to no avail. All screws on both the lenses/ TCs and body mount were checked also. They are all tight and none of them are loose in anyway. I even blow clean the AF sensor located at the bottom and behind the mirror on my D7100.<br />It doesn't make a difference unfortunately. I cannot loose the idea that it's a matter of tolerances on the contacts and D7100 is less tolerable (tight spec?); just a little bit too much space causing the AF pins to loose contact. By twisting the lens within its play I can sometime get its AF to work again but not always ...<br>
Or could there be firmware bug(s) in the D7100?<br /><br />Wonder if it's an unique pairing/ compatibility problem?<br />Your experience and insight on these combos?</p>
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<p>Thanks for all the input especially from Shun's user experience! Looks like the D800 is viable for this combo. I normally have the aperture stops down by 2/3 or one anyway for slightly better dof when shooting birds ...</p>
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<p>I've had a AF-S 500/4D ED (version 1) from new since 1998. Thinking of pairing it with a D800. <br />I'd like to hear any actual user experience. Is it optically 'good enough' for the high pixel body like the D800?</p>
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<p>Make sure CFn III-13 is set to zero (0) which disables the Mirror Lock-up function!</p>
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<p>Mark,<br /> The charger for the R8 Motordrive battery pack works something like this ...<br /> 1. Insert battery pack in the charger, the red LED blinks for 2 sec before lights up continuously indicating charging is in progress.<br /> 2. It normally takes 1 hrs 42 mins to fully charge a completely drained battery pack.<br /> 3. Always a good practice to discharge the battery pack (NiMH) before commencement of a full charge cycle. This is done by pushing the Press for Discharge button on the charger. The red LED would blink while the battery is being discharged. Charging immediately starts after that. Green LED comes on when the charge is full ie completed.<br /> 4. If you insert the battery pack in the charger and it blinks continuously then your pack may be damaged already.<br /> 5. Three (3) LED lights up on the battery pack (if you push the switch) indicating a fully charged battery or at least over 60% full charge.<br /> <br /> Hope the above helps!</p>
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<p>Guys, all things equal. You may what to compare by setting the body/lens to Manual Focus, Manual Exposure, High Speed Continuous Shooting mode etc and ensure a high enough Shutter speed such as 1/1000s. The difference in fps rate is obvious ...</p>
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<p> </p>
Using 6 AA Ni-MH (1.2v x 6 = 7.2v) batteries in an optional grip, BG-E7, would result in a lowering the frames per second in high speed mode. This doesn't compare well with using just a single LP-E6 (7.2v 1800 mAh) Li-ion battery that yields 8 fps. AA batteries I use are Sanyo HR-3U 1.2v Ni-MH 2700 mAh.<br /><br />7D instruction manual doesn't address that rechargeable AA would slow down the fps when using High Speed Continuous Shooting however.<br /><br />Your experience?
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<p>I've this exact problem happened to me once with my AF-S 80-200/2.8D ED. My local Nikon Service Centre fixed it while I waited. It took 20 mins or so in all and they charged me for a basic inspection fee. The technician told me that some parts were loose inside. It works perfectly ever since.</p>
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Have just rebuilt the battery pack with eight new Sanyo NiMH 1850mAh cells as the 1500mAh version is not available anywhere here. It takes about an hour or so to have the soldering work done.
Replaced the original pack in the unit and started the charging cycle but hit the 'one LED' problem as Jim Jeblee described above. The measured output voltage is correct and the unit works fine in the camera however. The unit just refuses to fully charge the pack despite repeated discharge/charge cycles. Suspect either the Charger or/and the circuitry in the battery unit is at fault ... I'm not sure what's the way forward since I've not found the necessary circuit diagrams.
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Thank you all for the replies!
Will try and source locally here in Hong Kong for the 1500 mAh NiMH AA cell with soldering tabs.
Jim, I have a pack that does exactly what you said. I think its time for a re-build. Getting a new pack from Leica is far too expansive for me and I don't think it justifies to throw the whole unit away.
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Has anybody replaced their NiMH batteries in the Leica R8/R9 Motor Drive Battery
Pack #14423. If so where do you get the batteries from?
The battery in question is the HHR 150AAB01 (made by Panasonic?!) each rated @
1500mAh. The pack takes 8 of them making up to 9.6v (1.2v x 8). All one has to
do is un-solder the pack and re-solder the new pack as far as I can see.
It is a shame that one needs to replace the whole unit #14423 ($150) for a
cluster of batteries that cost perhaps around $30 or so. Wished Leica had
designed the MD module for use with AA batteries in the first place!
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Even 600 is not enough for birds ... 500/4 with 1.4x would be your standard outfit. TC20E is not a good match for AF-S 500/4. Also, VR is not necessary if you shoot mainly flight shots.
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For birds, would suggest getting the AF-S 500/4 based on your 'best' definition.
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First time I checked the in-camera metering of my D200 I bought new few months
ago and was surprised to find it underexposes by as much as 2/3 to 1 stop
compared to the incident meter reading I took.
Anyone has similar experience?
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Rick,
Critical focus appears on the wing/tail instead of the eye/head in your shot. The softness certainly doesn't look like to do with motion blur here. Without more info on AF mode, f/ setting, ss used it's difficult to pin point the flaw(s). Also I'd check the focus accuracy of the 30D body ...
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It's the Shutter Release button/Control Lock that is not tight fitted resulting in some play/movement occurring between itself and the main grip body. The shutter release button has no problem and so is the control lock collar. It's the whole assembly of this two that moves when you rock it slightly side to side. It should have been tight fitted just like the one on the camera body!
In fact I did inspect a total of five units when I was making my purchase yesterday at a local camera shop and they all exhibit the same flaw. I can only jump to conclusion that the play is 'normal' for a MB-D200 ...
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Overall the MB-D200 grip is well designed and sturdy when mated to
D-200 body ...
Size wise it's on the large side if you have small hands like myself.
The layout of main and sub control dails, AF-on and shutter release
buttons are all very nicely done.
There is one flaw to it however ...
The Shutter Release button/Control Lock is not tight fitted resulting
some play/movement occuring between itself and the main grip body.
This spoils an otherwise well built grip!
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You can try cleaning it carefully yourself with pure alcoho using cotton buds. But it's not a cure even with repeat cleaning though. Have the shutter unit replaced by Canon. It costs about $100- parts and labor.
Zoom for Nikon D7200
in Nikon
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