gerald_kraus

<p>John:</p>

<p>You can send the equipment into Quantum Instruments Repair Dept<br>

10 Commerce Drive<br>

Hauppauge NY 11788</p>

<p>Include you name address and contact information</p>

<p>Sorry to hear that you were mis-informed. Even though the T2 model was discontinued in March 2004, we can still do limited repairs to the unit, depending on the problem. The unit will have to come in to us for testing and evaluation. If it is something that we cannot repair, we do offer an upgrade to a brand new T5d-R model Qflash. The price is current what was mentioned you you when you had called us.</p>

<p>TTL metering sees the subject Thru The Lens and it sees an in focus distinct tonal value ( in spot metering). It may see more than one distinct tonal value and will average them. If you are in matrix metering and have a very light background being read by a lot of the metering sensors and the subject is of a darker value and only being read by several metering sensors, then the exposure will be biased toward the lighter background, making the darker subject even darker still.<br>

Auto metering does not have a lens in front of it, just a piece of glass or plastic to protect it. It sees the scene as an out of focus gray haze and will give you more accurate and consistent exposures.<br>

On some systems (i.e. Canon for one) you can set flash exposure compensations on the body of the camera. The way that they do it is to change the ISO that the flash is set to, to fool the system.</p>

<p>IMO it looks like window light is providing thew illumination, not an artificial source. Also, this particular is too monotone and confusing. Plus, the props they used are distracting, Better to cover them with a nice table cloth.</p>

<p>FP High speed sync only will work in either TTL or Manual modes. When the flash is in auto mode, the sensor on the flash, not the camera controls the flash. This holds true for any camera system. According to George's post, looks like you will have to get a new flash if you want to do HSS with the Pentax.</p>

<p>What about a new hot shoe or an adapter to secure it on a pole/light stand?<br>

http://photo-tips-online.com/review/frio-cold-shoe-hot-shoe-adapter/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Zivo: I see that you are on three forums with this flash. On the front is a three position switch, with white in the middle. The red and green on either side are for the sensor in the flash to control light through its thyristor circuit. The white may be for manual mode allowing you to sen the light output to whatever you may desire. This is only a guess without having an instruction manual to check it out.</p>

<p>"Strobe" is the wrong term to use for the third category. You want to compare Pop-up flash, Speedlights and studio flash. </p>

<p>Strobe lights was the term used for lights that do not give a single flash, but a rapid series of light pulses during the exposure. (just think of the flashing Disco light)</p>

<p>Here is another thought. I do not know why you have a Nikon Speedlight, but have you ever thought of renting a Canon Speedlight, such as the 580EX-II and use that in the camera? If you are doing this wedding for hire, then you should try to use the correct equipment. If you are just doing it for gratis for a friend or relative, you owe it to them the courtesy of trying to do the best you can.</p>

<p>The QT48 dual connector was discontinued several years ago. Anything you get your hands on could be store stock that was not previously not sold, or could be currently sold as used.</p>

<p>Mike: Keep in mind that shooting the way you describe will cause a lot of heat buildup inside the Speedlight, regardless of the model. The SB900 has a thermal protection feature that will shut down the flash as it gets hotter. It has a thermometer on the LCD to let you see how hot it is getting. You can turn the feature off, but you risk damaging the flash.<br>

You may want to consider a Quantum Trio Basic. It has the same power output as the SB900, but will not overheat. It runs of an external Turbo Battery and with the Turbo 2x2 or Turbo 3, it can recycle from a full power shot in 1 second. If you are ringside and using a high ISO (i.e. 400 or 800) and a fairly wide aperture such as f/5.6, you should be able to get those bursts with no problem. The only thing is that it will not be cheap.</p>

<p>Mike, You also need to take into consideration " PERSONNEL ". If you are going to run this thing, you are going to be responsible for hiring the necessary people to run the different locations. You said the word "Santa" pictures. That includes then 6 jolly ol' Saint Nick's also. The photographer person, the order person and possibly an assistant. So, you are looking at hiring, managing and paying 18 to 24 other people besides yourself. Of course, there is also the time needed before the actual photographing activity starts to train all the people properly.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Look at images first in a magazine that shows some of the clothes and styling that you like. Try and replicate the look and lighting. You are starting off with a complete lack of knowledge of photography and there is no way that you can do what you want to do on a low budget and without a lot of trial and error testing. <br>

Keep in mind that each piece is different and that there is no one set lighting template that will work for all products. If you are not going to use models, then, you should be able to use constant light sources which are less expensive than flashes.<br>

You have your work cut out for you.</p>

 

<p>If your gels cover the light source and no white light can get through and spill on the background. Just remember, that the lighter the color of the background, the less light you will need.</p>

<p>Qflashes come in three versions. The Trio or Trio Basic which is designed (model specific) to fit into the hotshoe of a Canon or Nikon digital camera. While they have 80 watt seconds, they both have a guide number of 110 (ISO 100, feet). This compares to light output speedlights compared at the 50mm zoom setting.They work with any Turbo Battery<br>

The T5d-R uses the same reflector, same bulb and also work off any Turbo Battery. They are 150 watt seconds and have a guide # of 160.<br>

The X5d-R model uses the same reflector, but a different model flashtube. They do use the same reflectors as the T series Qflashes. They do use a different battery system, the Qpaq-X modular battery system. This allows configuring the battery stack to the requirements of the job at hand. You can run either 1 or 2 X5d-R heads at either 200 w/s or 400 w/s from one pack. ( Guide # of 160 at 200 w/s and 220 at 400 w/s.Take off the battery and slip on an AC power supply instead, lets say at a prom, where you will have the students coming up for pictures. Another module can be added to the stack that allows you to shoot with the battery and charge it at the same time.<br>

Then there are the various reflectors, light modifiers and accessories that can be added to any of the Qflashes.<br>

Their two biggest advantages are a better quality of light than speedlights and also the fact that they are portable (used on a camera hotshoe or on a bracket with the camera. They all work in TTL, auto or manual modes. They also do not over heat, turn off or sloe down when doing fast paced shooting like the speedlights do.<br>

But, the biggest capability today is that a Pilot (commander type unit) or a TRIO can be used in the hotshoe and control a mix of other Trios, T5d-R, X5d-R and either Canon Speedlights or Nikon Speedlights, by radio (FreeXwires and Qlinks) which means more capability and versatility to photographers. </p>

 

<p>Speedlights are generally AA powered light that go into hot shoes on camera. They are nowhere near the power and versatility of studio type lights. Most of the studio units today work of of both AC power supply in the wall or with dedicated battery packs that are made for them. Both can be used successfully if you know how to use them.</p>

<p>There were two lights, one on the subject from camera left and a rim light from farther left side. </p>

<p>Quantum does recommend using the camera in manual mode indoors. Using the TRIO or and of the other digital Qflashes in TTL mode allows the metering for the flash to be controlled by the cameras flash metering system. Center weighted or spot metering is suggested so the camera is not reading a dark background behind the subject.</p>

<p>I would not recommend using a Speedlight for wedding photography becasue of the amount of wear and tear on the equipment. Using something like a Quantum Trio or T5d-R model Qflash would serve you better.</p>

<p>I think you guys should read that article that was in the Professional Photographer magazine. I'm pretty sure it was there or it was posted on a forum. An umbrella can reflect a color cast. I think the blue that they were getting was caused by one of the cheap umbrellas from China.<br>

However, a Custom White Balance would be a good idea. You cannot tell me that an umbrella from manufacturer A will be the same whiteness, texture aor fabric density as an umbrella from manufacturer B, or C, or D, etc., etc.<br>

In addition, you have not taken into consideration that as the fabric ages, it may yellow and make the images warmer. <br>

Do the White Balance.</p>

 

<p>try taking a clear piece of good quality thin window glass and put it on a 45 degree angle. Using a light stand or a modified copy stand, mount the camera directly above the glass and holograms, which will be centered under the glass. Direct a light onto the glass from the open side of it so that the light reflects down onto the hologram. You should get pretty even light on them.</p>

<p>I seriously do not think that one on camera flash will do the job with 150 people. Be serious.</p>

<p>You cannot convert the M-R Ac light to a strobe -- period.</p>

<p>I don't know if Nikon offers them in that configuration, but Paramount Cable does. You can purchase one through almost any camera shop or even B&H. As mentioned abobe by Henry from B&H, if the camera / Speedlight does not have a threaded female PC input, you do not need the threaded cable.</p>

<p>You cam try eithe a set of Quantum Radio Slave 4i sender / receivers. The sender slips into the hot shoe of the camera. The receiver will work with the current sync cord you have for the Novatrons.</p>