melvin_krick

<p>I recently purchased a Fuji Finepix S1000fd camera, this is a fixed lens with 10mp-12x zoom. It takes pretty good pix once you learn all its little tricks. However, I am having trouble downloading the pix from the camera to my computer with Windows Vista system. I follow the inst. manual instructions and try to transfer the pix to Finepix Viewer installed on the PC. After 2 to 3 pix are loaded, the PC freezes up and I have to reboot it and try again. Sometimes I have to try 3 or 4 times, with several reboots, before the all of the pix are finally transfered. I sent several emails to Fuji about this problem, but they never answered. Any help in solving this problem would be appreciated, thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks to all of you for your fast and informative responses. I was doing some digging in my large "junk" collection pile of flash units, brackets, cable releases and other stuff and I came up with one of the adapters, it looks like a variation of the AS-1. It has Nikon in raised letters on it, I will give it a try and see if it works. Thanks again.</p>

<p>I recently acquired a Nikon F Photomic camera which is in very good shape. I don't have the manual and I want to use it for flash photography. But I don't know how and where to mount the flash unit. I think that I have to get some kind of adapter to be able to mount a standard ISO mount flash unit on the camera. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.</p>

<p>Hello to all. In regard to the Soligor 135mm f2.8 lens I have, Ive noticed the aperture leaves are very close to the inside surface of rear lens glass element. The aperture ring adjusts the opening very smoothly from f 2.8 to f 8 but then stops, cannot move it any further to close the aperture further down. Is this is what is meant by a 'preset aperture" ? Probably would not close it down further anyway in actual use.</p>

<p>Hello to all. Thank you for the suggestions as to how to remove the rear lens element on the Kodak Retina Automatic III. I should mention that this is not a folder camera, it is a fixed lens rangefinder. It has a 2 lens assembly in front of the shutter and aperture blades and a 2 lens assembly in back of the shutter and aperture blades. I have removed the rear inner slotted retainer and I am going to try a little heat to loosen and remove the outer retainer so I can get the 2nd lens out to get at and clean the stuck blades.</p>

<p>Hope someone can help me. I have 1960's Kodak Retina Automatic III that is in great cosmetic condition. But the light meter doesnt work and the aperture blades are sticky, shutter is OK. If I can get the aperture blades cleaned and working I can still use the camera manually. You have to get the rear double lens element off to get at the blades. I have removed the inner retaining ring and removed one of the lenses. However, the other lens does not want to come out. There is also an outer ring with 2 slots for turning it. I tried to turn it loose with my spanner tool but it will not move. Does anybody out there have any suggestions in regard to getting the 2nd rear lens loose? They would be greatly appreciated. Note. I like to work on vintage cameras, Ive got some of them to work OK, others were good for parts only.</p>

Hello to all. I recently purchased a Kodak Retina Automatic III. with the original very nice case.(only $5). So far, I

hace gotten the shutter to work by flooding the shutter with lighter fluid, also glued back on some of the loose black

leatherette. Cosmetically the camera is now very nice looking, but the light meter does not work. They usually don't

work on these oldies. Also , I cant get the aperture control ring to change the aperture. Its stuck on wide open f 2.8.

The lens has 4 glass elements. It seems that I would have to remove at least 3 of these elements to get at the

aperture blades in order to free them up. I can still shoot photos at the f 2.8 setting but I have very little depth of field.

Any suggestions as to how to free up the stuck aperture blades would be appreciated.

Hello to all. Several months ago I reported a problem with the On-Off switch on the Maxxum 5 shutting off every time

I shot a frame. I had to manually turn back on the switch for each shot. I was advised at that time to send it in for a

CLA. However, while leafing thru the copious manual, I found how to correct the problem. On pg. 108 of the manual,

it tells how to Reset All of the Custom Functions to Default. (1) Turn the main switch to OFF. (2) T urn the function

dial to CUST.(3) While pressing the function button,(center button on the round dial on left top end) slide the main

switch from OFF to ON. The data LCD panel will blink clr when the camera is turned on while pressing the function

button. Eureka!! Now the camera functions normally and the switch stays on while taking shots no matter what mode

you select!!

Hello again. I have a nice, very clean condition Graflex 22 TLR. The only problem is the T and B setting on the

shutter speed scale.. When the scale is turned to T or B, the shutter speed stays at 1/200 sec when shutter release

is pressed. Any ideas? Probably will have to send it in for a CLA>

Hello to all. I have a very old Kodak folder with red bellows. At least they were originally red, now there faded to a

pink. They are still otherwise in good condition and light tight. Is there some way I could re-color them to a red color

without damaging the bellows? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hello to all. My maxxum 3xi has a very dark viewfinder and the lens aperture stays

closed at a high f number. Tried a new battery, no change. From reviews of similar

problem it looks like the aperture plate or ring needs replacement. Is this repair

feasible for a home repair or must it be sent out to a shop? Ive done some camera

repair but only minor stuff like the Canon AE-1 squeak, replacing light seals, fixing

sticky focal plane shutters, etc.

Hello. I have the same problem with my Maxxum 3xi. Is it feasible to try and repair the aperture magnet stickiness yourself? Trying to get a repar manual on the internet is like pulling teeth! It seems like the Minolta Co. (now Sony) is very reluctant to give any advice other than "send to to the repair shop".

In regard to the above, Ive already tried new batteries and the problem is still the same. I can use the camera since the film advance still works but if I keep turning the switch off and on between shots eventually I feel that I am going to wear the switch out or break it. When the mirror comes back down after an exposure, does it hit some kind of contact that shuts off the power? I cant find a listed repair manual on the Internet.

Hello to all. I have just acquired a nice clean used Maxxum 5 with 2 lenses. My

problem is that every time I shoot a pic the display LCD goes blank and then I

have to turn the switch off and then back on to restore the display and shutter

release. This is in the P fully automatic mode. Otherwise every thing else works.

Hello to all. Does anybody know how to take apart one of the Ektanar lenses

that fit on this 50 year old camera? It had 3 interchangeable lenses. Some of

the aperture blades came loose from their pins in one of my lenses. I think I

can clean and reinstall the blades, if I can find out how to open up the lens.

Any clues would be appreciated. BTW those persons who have trouble with the

range finder not working, should run the R/F thru its full range after

reinstalling the lens. This usually gets the R/F working again.

Hello to all. I have a Retina IIIC which is very nice cosmetically, but the

film advance crank sometimes will not move, and when it does move it does not

always spring back like it should. I have to press the button on the top to get

it to come loose. The shutter will not release no matter what I set the shutter

speed or aperture at. The light meter still works, I don't know how accurate it

is. I have the instruction manual but it doesnt help me. Any suggestions? I

don't want to try and repair it myself.

Hello. I have a ME super that works fine, except the self timer switch does

not release when I press the shutter release, but the shutter does release

immediately without the 10 sec delay. I can get it to work if I give the timer

switch a little nudge, then it goes the 10 secs. and releases the shutter. Is

this a simple repair that can be made by taking off the bottom plate and

adjusting the release mechanism?

Hello. I have a SX-70 manual focus. The problem is that the camera sounds like

its taking pics, but it does not spit out the photo. Must be something in the

ejection motor drive. Is this an easy fix or does it require a trained repair

tech? Any info on how to fix it would be appreciated. profster@merr.com

Hello to all. Does anyone know how you fix a loose shutter speed ring on the

Walz Wide camera? I know you are supposed to tighten a ring nut, but where is

this ring nut? How do you get at it? Anyinfo will be appreciated, thanks.

profster@merr.com

One thing to remember, when mounting FD lenses on the older Canon cameras like the FTb-TLb-TX-AT1 and probably some other models. You cannot mount the lens if the aperture ring is turned to the green A or small o. The lens will not mount. I have seen lenses that were damaged because somebody tried to force them on. These models did not have the AE Automatic Exposure feature, aperture selection was manual.

Hello. I have recently picked up a TopCon IC-1 camera with 3 lenses and flash.

Cosmetically everything is in near mint condition. I did have to clean out a

little corrosion in the battery compartment. Installed new batteries 1.35 volt

675. The meter works fine but I have a shutter problem. The film advance works

OK but when I press the shutter release all the way down, the shutter does not

release., the mirror stays down. Note. This is a focal plane, cloth shutter

camera. When I take a toothpick and manually move the mirror up, then the

shutter releases. However it will only release at the max speed, moving the

shutter speed ring does not change the speed. I took the bottom off of the

camera and the wire cable that moves when the film advance lever is cocked, is

OK, cable is not broken. Note. When the shutter release button is pressed down,

it feels like there is no or very little resistance. Any ideas how to correct

this problem, is there a simple fix?

Hello. I have a vigilant junior six-20 that is in great working shape except

for one thing. The front lens has a haze on its inner surface. Is it possible

to remove this lens for cleaning and how would you do this? Thanks.