manuel barrera houston,

<p>Different and I think beautiful work, we all have different tastes. You inquired about the website and some people started talking about your work. I read not to long ago about this young woman now doing major work for large companies (still in her teens). If she had listened to some of the people here she would not be where she is.</p>

<p>sorry for the double - must have clicked twice</p>

<p>Based on my experience the IF on the OM-D does not seem to be as effective on Panasonic lens as on my FD lens, works great on the Olympus lens.</p>

<p>Not sure what slow AF in regards to the 20mm means, but I have it and have found it to be more than adequate for most events.<br>

I bought the OM E5 with the kit lens, 12-50, which is an excellent lens but I normally keep the 20mm attached. I tend to use my Canon FD and EOS lens more than the kit lens as the stabilization on the camera is excellent. Manual focusing is fairly easy as one can multiply the view to focus.</p>

 

<p>All I can say is that the view finder died, afterwards I had a run in with a door. Olympus does tend to look for a reason to void the warranty. I like the camera but I don't think that I will be buying more Olympus equipment. Will stick Panasonic as I have not had any problems with any of those cameras.</p>

<p>I disagree as to the use of EOS lens with micro 4/3 lens, I often use my Sigma 400mm with a Sigma 1.4 multiplier, the F/5.6 allows for excellent macro use gives me the equivalent of 1120mm f/6.3 lens.</p>

<p>I have a GF3 and very happy with it.</p>

<p>Nonsense as to avoid the Sigma like the Plague, I have the 100-300 f/4 about 5 years, the Sigma fisheye about 3 years, and the Sigma 150 macro about 7 years. I have never had any problems with the lens. I have had to sent a couple of Canon lens in for repair but they were over 10 years old. <br>

I have a Sigma 400 f/5.6 telemacro that I believe was last made in 2004, my lens is at least 10 years old and still works fine. Will only work at f 5.6 with the newer Canon cameras but that is not a problem most of the time. I don't visit photo.net too often but I believe that I have some photos taken with that lens on this site.</p>

<p>I doubt that even a bounce would have helped as they are so close to the wall, even light from overhead would have created a shadow. Craig is correct use a high ISO the new softwares are do an excellent job in removing noise.<br>

If you were straight in front of them, I am not even sure that it was your flash that created the shadows. Lots of cloning if you intend to soften the shadows.</p>

<p>Get another 5D, it meets all your needs and cost seems to be a consideration for you and that 35L lens will keep its' value.</p>

<p>I would suggest the Sigma 100-300 f4.0, very little advantage that the 100-400 Canon L lens would have over the Sigma in regards to light 150-500; Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6; Sigma 150-500 f5.0-6.3; The other recommendation if you prefer a Canon lens would be the Canon 70-300 Do Lens f4.5 -f5.6 it has the advantage of being smaller and lighter and the 70mm low end would be better for landscape.</p>

<p>After paying to have it done once and not getting it back to my satisfaction I went out and got a sensor kit, after a couple of cleaning it now only requires light cleaning, rocket blower. The kit was expensive as I try the butterfly brush first before the swabs. I have the 1D, 1Ds, and 5D so buying a kit made sense for me.</p>

<p>I wish Canon would make a small camera like Sony Nex or the 4/3 cameras. If someone needs that much resolution just go to medium format, I believe that Hasseblad has released a 200 megapixal camera.</p>

<p>Low light photography the 5D is a much better camera, in fact I purchased that camera, which I still have because of a wedding that would require much higher ISO than the 1Ds is capable of, I still have that camera also. You will be better off with the 5D with the photography you mentioned. As to IQ we all have different tastes, I prefer the IQ on the 1Ds.</p>

<p>I believe that the megapixel race is about over for most people, there will always be some people that will buy the biggest, fastest, most expensive whatever because they can.</p>

<p>Why should the writer state what he thinks? I do not care and besides some of you would go off on him/her, for stating an opinion that is contrary to what some of you think, that is nature of photo.net.</p>

<p>Ben is correct.</p>

<p>Here is something along that line, if that is the look you looking for you are looking at a few minutes for each one.</p><div></div>

<p>create a layer underneath with color you want as gradient than you gradient tool on mask to create the look you desire.</p>

<p>You all making it too hard, do not need a custom function, it is all in the menu, and you can use AV for bracketing, TV is normally the preferred way. Go to page 105 of your manual, it is a fairly easy process (make sure you press set!). If you do not have remote control than preferred way is set it to high speed and set for time delay, it will quickly take all three photos, do not forget the tripod. If the light is excellent you can use a very high setting and probably get away with hand held if you have steady hands. I do not think bracketing will work well if the camera is set to P, not sure on that as it has been awhile since I read up on the subject.</p>

<p>The reason that AV is not normally desired is because it can effect the focus, distance, one normally wants to keep the subject focused.</p>

<p>None is too broad, it is possible that it will work on some of the earlier digital cameras, 10D, 1D, 1DS. Again some of those lens were excellent, for instance my 400 f/5.6 telemacro works great with two of my older cameras, on the newer ones it works but only wide open (f/5.6) that seems to be what is occurring with your lens, the two aperture settings that you mention are the wide open setting on your lens. One of my most used lens for birds is that old sigma 400 as it very sharp and has excellent colors, http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=930216 , it is certainly not very fast but I included the Osprey in flight to show that it is not that slow either. I have never considered selling that lens.</p>

<p>With the exception of the 580 EX all my flashes have been bought used, but I try to get them at half price, one of 550 ex flashes is 5 years old and still works fine, with few exceptions, wedding photographers most flashes do not get a lot of use.</p>

<p>I have the 400 that Puppy mentions above it works fine with my 1D and 1Ds, with all the other cameras that I have or have had it would only work wide open at f5.6 (20D, 30D, 50D, 7D, 5D) You could try using the A setting at wide open and see if you get an error messages.</p>

<p>Seems to me that all the light is coming from the top. I know that it does not answer your specific questions but if all the light is from the top it will be hard to compensate for the part that is toward the bottom, kinda like a cowboy wearing a hat and bouncing the light from the ceiling and expecting the shadow of the hat to be gone from the cowboy's face.</p>

<p>It does not make a difference as to what type of camera you have as it would match fairly close to what you are presently using, 50mm and 85mm. The 24-70 is an excellent lens whether used on a crop camera, 1.6, 1.3, or full.</p>

<p>When I purchased my present system, I chose Canon as I believed it to be the best buy at the time, 2004. Today I would choose Nikon or Sony.</p>