scott_munn1
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Posts posted by scott_munn1
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I had this problem all the time with my first M7. Its favourite trick
was to switch from 100 to 25, mid-roll. Even setting the film
speed manually didn't always work(!). Leica 'repaired' it twice
(the second time replacing the back), then finally gave me a new
camera... which has also, on occasion, malfunctioned in the
same way. Like Helen, I'd prefer it didn't have the contacts. I
really don't need DX-coding.
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I agree with most of what you say, Roy, but it's harmless fun to
chat about equipment. People might tend to obsess about it
because it many cases they're spending a lot of money. Of
course, I take your point that a lot of money needn't be spent to
take great pictures.
I'm not a professional photographer, and don't even play one on
TV, though I do occasionally sell my pictures - the last few
almost by accident, to advertising agencies which stumbled
across them on the net. I certainly don't need a Leica to do what I
do, though the relatively quiet shutter has been an advantage in
some situations. I just bought my M7 because I liked it and, for
an (all-too) brief period in my life, I could afford it. Unfortunately it
has made the trip back to Milton Keynes here in England twice;
they finally replaced it. Fact is, I don't trust it as much as I do my
Nikon FM3a...
PS. I got the Voigtlander. No regrets.
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"If you rotate the focus ring quickly a very minute amount you may
hear a very faint click, you might even feel it."
I think that nailed it. In the samples I saw it wasn't so faint, is all.
Very nit-picky, but that explains why I haven't noticed the same
thing in my other lenses.
You've been extremely helpful.
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Thanks for the help, everyone.
I've noticed that Bjørn Rørslett, whose reviews I generally trust,
rates this lens very highly, and also has good things to say about
the 2.8 version, particularly as regards its sharpness close-up.
Question for Jay, and anyone else who has one of these: do you
share his assessment that "For distant scenes, corner
sharpness isn't that remarkable and ghosting under adverse
conditions can be troublesome. There is some corner colour
fringing present, too"?
Another question for 2.0 owners: in a few of the samples I've
checked out, the barrel seems to be especially loose. Probably
I've just run into a couple of bad apples, but in your experience, is
this lens as well-made as other mf nikkors?
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I know the basic differences between AI and AIS, but it's not
always clear with a given lens if the optical formula changed.
Does anyone know if the glass in these lenses is the same?
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Once upon a time a local camera shop I used to frequent
brought something out of the basement they thought I'd like: a
'new' Nikon F2A that had been sitting in in its box for years at the
back of a shelf. (This was long after they'd stopped making them,
of course.) I was stunned, and bought it immediately - at a very
good price, too. Later I decided to sell it as I just wasn't using it
very often after going medium format.
Much later... after I got into 35mm again... and remembered how
much I enjoyed manual focusing, the utter simplicity of the old
beast, and its beautiful (to me) lines... I really wish I had it back
again. Sure, I can find an old beater somewhere, but it isn't the
same.
Then there was the time I let an absolutely mint pristine F3/T get
away, but I guess that doesn't really count as I never bought it in
the first place.
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24mm f/2.8, 45mm f/2.8, 180mm f/2.8 are all I use anymore for
my FM3A. I also have a 105mm f/2.5 which now sits in a drawer
because I can't bear to part with it (and when I want that approx.
focal length I leave the nikon at home and use a 90mm on a
leica). The 105 is a fantastic lens but I like to travel light yet with a
wide range and it always seems to be the straw that breaks the
camel's back.
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Funny; I've always thought of this camera as being somehow
Leica in spirit, though the two would appear to have little in
common at first blush.
I use an FM3a alongside my M7 - replacements for an FM2 & M6.
You can see where my priorities lie. A 24mm or 105mm usually
sits on the former; 35mm or 50mm the latter. I don't favour wide
angles or teles on the Leica so this combination suits perfectly. I
happen to like the display and the fact that it shows the aperture
as well. Kinda wish my M7 could do that.
Don't know if the FM3a is really noisier than an autofocus model.
Depends which one I suppose. For example the F/N80 is much
quieter than F100. (Incidentally the F80 is also hand-holdable at
surprisingly low speeds - even better than Leica IME.) The
mechanical cameras merely offer a different kind of noise. I
honestly think it will only bother you if you let it bother you - which
is an easy thing to do when you're accustomed to the quiet click
of an M.
If you want pocketable, try the Nikon with the pancake 45mm. A
seriously cool lens. My M7 w/35 summilux doesn't fit in any
pockets I own.
Aside from the hybrid shutter, I also prefer the FM3a over
discontinued models precisely because it is in production.
Nothing against the other FMs or FA (or FG - another sweet little
camera), some of which have features you may prefer.
The only problem I've had with mine is that it tended to
overexpose; easily solved. I'm also left-eyed and the stand-out
position to turn the camera on doesn't happen to bother me.
In short, I wouldn't care to part with either camera.
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Classic may be a handsome store totally devoted to Leica - they
also carry the Voigtlander range - but they aren't my first choice.
IME their customer service is indifferent and their prices are often
a little high (I'm happy to patronize good local shops which
charge more, though with Leica prices being what they are
already, this concept of loyalty can be stretched too far). As for
their 3-month waiting list, that's a shame for their customers as
M7s are on the shelves elsewhere in London.
Incidentally, does anyone know why you only get a 2-year
passport warranty in the UK? It can't be that they're so much
better made for the British market. Mine's been in the shop twice
already...
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Incidentally, I've been unable to find ROR in the UK. It must be
here somewhere, but so far everybody just gives me strange
looks...
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Thank you for the responses.
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24mm Elmarit owners: Did you have any difficulty adapting to the
use of a finder? This is assuming you hadn't used one before,
and don't always go the hyperfocal focus route.
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm normally quite competent at lens
cleaning (first rule: do no harm). It's just this grease thing that
threw me for a loop. Very annoying.
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The rear element is coated in a similar way to the front? And the
grease will hurt the coating? (Or I will, trying to remove it...) I'd call
Leica and ask, but they're closed where I am.
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Somehow I've managed to transfer a bit of the lubricant from the
mount onto the rear element of a summicron 50. I've tried (very
gently) to clean it off with a soft lens cloth & a little fluid -
needless to say this just smeared the grease around. How do I
get it off? Will it harm the element?
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There are cyclists who share this one camera / one lens philosophy by
riding a bike with just one gear. They often mention Zen, too. I'm fond
of the notion, but it's never worked for me in practice. It isn't
always possible to "just move forward or back" to get a picture, for
example. (So I suppose you move on and look for another shot.)
<p>
An interesting thing I've discovered after buying my Leica was a sudden
fondness for 50mm. I'd never even owned a 50 before. An attractive
price had something to do with it, but mostly I just liked the lens
itself, never mind the focal length. (Crazy, huh?) I'm not keen on
rangefinders with medium telephotos, so I decided to make the 50 my
'telephoto' to complement a 28. My only complaint is the mildly
cluttered framelines...
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When I took up photography as a teenager I was never without my camera
- even carried it on my paper route. I used to wander around town doing
informal portraits. One day I saw a guy being pulled out of a creek. He
was an epileptic; he'd been fishing, had a seizure, and drowned. I was
a bit jumpy - I knew him from a 'portrait session' of several months
before - but I took pictures anyway. This displeased one of the cops,
who gave me a dressing down for what he saw as an invasion of privacy.
A professional photographer surely would've shrugged it off...
anyway, to answer your question, I still carry my camera around, but
I'm quite happy to have never witnessed another accident.
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A few more snaps of Mayday in London, if you're still in the mood. Alas
they're not all Leica.
<p>
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What the hell. 'Tiffin People', accessed from this page:
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£1630 in the UK from Jacobs in London.
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I grab information from where I can, and that includes Erwin on
occasion. His paean to the M7 was so overboard it made me laugh,
though... despite the fact that I went & bought one myself.
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The blinking annoys me in principle rather than in practice, as I tend
to use films as rated. (I don't like blinking cursors, either, even if
they do make it easier to find your place in a block of text.) As
mentioned, it's a very small dot, and easily lost in the general hubbub
of a constantly changing shutter speed. I rather doubt it can be turned
off.
<p>
I like this camera, but then I'm a non-typical Leica user; it's the AE
that finally won me over. What can be intensely annoying to some will
be a blessing to others. For example, I find it useful being reminded
of the film ASA after turning the camera on, particularly when you've
set it to DX and are on the forgetful side... You can always use the
bulb setting as your 'off', if you prefer. I don't care for the new
injections of plastic (film speed dial & battery cover), though.
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Indeed.
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1) The camera is empty.
2) There's film in it, but you've set the film speed at something other
than DX, in which case it blinks. And will continue to blink. I think.
FM3a uses spot meter or center-weighted meter?
in Nikon
Posted
It works wonderfully for me, too - and I shoot nothing but slide
film. Having cut my teeth on a F2A loaded with Kodachrome 64,
perhaps I'm just partial to 60/40.