hknauer

Thanks all. You have been helpful. I went out this morning and shot flowers in the bright sun to work it all out and I did.

 

I am not sure why you would want to modify the lens though. Since I am looking to use the shift for panoramas, wouldn't I want the t & S to operate 90 degrees from one another?

I guess I must be getting older because I'm having some problems making peace

with an 85mm 2.8 PC lens that I purchased. The problems fall into 3 areas:

 

1. Exactly what should I be expecting with regards to depth of field gain when

tilting the lens. In the few situations that I've tried it, I don't seem to be

able to get both far and near in focus at the same time even though I shoot at

f32 or f45. If one assumes that with no tilt my plane of focus is parallel to

the sensor plane, will maximum tilt make the plane of focus perpendicular to the

sensor plane. Isn't a perpendicular plane of focus what I see when I see a field

of flowers razor sharp into the distance?

 

2. With regards to exposure. I have used cameras for 40 years and even teach

digital photography but this is the first truly manual lens that I have used. I

set the lens to 2.8 and balance the exposure in manual exposure. Then, as the

manual states, I rotate the lens "n" clicks to whatever f-stop I want to use,

stop down the lens by pushing that little button down, and balance the exposure

change by rotating shutter speed an equal number of clicks in the appropriate

direction. Rarely is the exposure close. I always seem to be about 3 stops

overexposed. Its gotten to the point where I just take a few shots and zero in

to the correct exposure based on what I see in the LCD and what the histogram

tells me.

 

3. I remember reading that you can use the shift mechanism to take a panorama.

I tried this with mixed results. I put everything in manual mode (I shoot raw

anyway) and then took three exposures with the lens shifted all the way to the

left, then the center, then the right. Since shifting left and right requires

exposure compensation, how should I accomplish that.

 

Any insight to all this would be greatly appreciated. If i don't hear from

anyone, you can contact me for a good price on an 85mm 2.8 PC.

Well, I'm at Merritt now and the water is pretty low. Not that many waders and they seem to be more skittish than when I was last here in December, especially the tri-colors. Long Pond Road has a lot of birds but be prepared to shoot from the car. Shiloh Road can also be productive, but again, stay in the car. Biolab seemed to have a few pockets of birds but i was there late in the morning.

 

I am going to tryout Hatbill Park this afternoon. If anyone out there has some more suggestions, send them on since I am going to be here 2 more days.

Check out this other photo. Head and body are pretty close to the same color. Feet are not yellow so its not a snowy, and the bill is not pink so I don't think its a Reddish Egret. Does the immature reddish egret have a black bill?<div></div>

Took this photo in December but I need some help identifying the bird.<div></div>

We should all have such choices. I would like to take a workshop this fall and

there are 4 workshops in 4 separate areas. While I am sure that they are all

great locations, I haven't been to any of them so your comments would be

appreciated. In each case, the timing of the workshop is the same, September 24-30.

My equipment is a D200, 80-400 long lens, 12-24 wa, and 18-200. I am interested

in both the scenery and the animals so hence my dilemma.

 

RMNP and Crested Butte are hosted by Weldon Lee, the RMNP workshop being

advertised as more a wildlife tour and the crested Butte workshop advertised as

more toward scenic. Joe and Mary Mcdonald are running the Yellowstone workshop

and Jess Lee is doing Yellowstone and Grand Tetons.

 

I am interested in a tour that will be fruitfull as well as physically easy.

Thoughts?

I've read this post backward and forward but it doesn't address what I experience on some of my images. My goal is to get an image on the web that when viewed by others in their browsers (IE) will be close to what I see on my screen in photoshop.

 

The problem that I have is this. I have an image I like in PS. I convert it from argb to srgb. I then Save for web. What I see in Save for web is that the "original" image as displayed in SfW is not close to what I see in PS. I eyedropped a patch of red in the PS image and then edited the save for web image in imageready and eyedropped it in IR. 217,39,39 in PS and 239,43,34 in IR. First question I have is why are they different?

 

Moving on from there, in Save for Web, the target image, what SfW says is the Jpeg, looks like what I want. It looks like the PS image. BUT. when I do the save,and then go to IE to view the web site, guess what. It looks like the SfW source image and not like my PS image and not like the SfW jpg target image.

 

This all occurs no matter what my monitor profile is. To summarize, I get a color shift when saving to a jpeg and viewing on my monitor as well as others.

 

Hope someone can help.

Greg,

Thanks for the link to that other thread. It was incredibly comprehensive but I am not sure that it's going to help. If I convert to my monitor profile, then when I do a save for web the image looks like it does in PS. But since I want to sell my images, how wil it look on other PCs. I will try it over the next couple of days.

I am sure that you are correct and that the lack of color management in IE is the root of my problem. But IE is the standard. If I want to sell my work on the internet, how do I compensate for the lack of color management.

I have been having some issues with some of my images when publishing

to the web. In photoshop the images appear as I want them to and

they print as they should. When I save them as a 72 px jpg they still

look good in PS even when retrieved. Doesn't matter whether I

convert to srgb or not. The problem comes when I view them in

internet explorer after I migrate them to my web-site. Images are

more saturated, colors more garish, and don't look what I am looking

at in PS. Anyone have any suggestions?

I'll be going to Vermont in October. First Stowe, then Woodstock. For what its worth, according to my research, Vermont has had more rain this summer than normal, by about 20-25%. Some think that that's meaningful.

I've been trying to get my monitor to more resemble my prints but no

luck. The video card, an NVIDIA geoforce fx 5200 has the capability

of assigning a profile. I tried a few different profiles, including

one I created with optical, from the list of available profiles, made

each one the default and then applied, but no change to the

appearance of a photoshop image on the display. I then looked up my

start programs and found Adobe Gamma Loader so I deleted that from

the startup list. Still no change to images when I change profiles.

Am I doing something wrong?

A guy in my camera club turned me on to this. The Pogo PRC-200 is a

keychain universal TV remote, a touch smaller than a car remote. For

$12, you can get 2 of them at buy.com. They work great as a D70

remote. When first setting it up you need to increase your remote

wait time from its default 1 minute to about 15 minutes and set the

camera to process remote signals. When initializing the remote it

takes about 5 minutes to cycle through setups for the right

combination for the D70, but eventually you hear the shutter click.

Cheaper than the ML-L3 and you get a spare.

Batteries were brand new lithium.

I shot the whole roll at one time. It's really bizarre. I just can't explain it.

Has anyone had this problem? I just picked some slides that i had

developed. In the middle of the roll there was an overlap. Pictures

number 10 and 11 overlapped by about a quarter of an inch and there

was no space between the two slides. This is the first and only time

that this has happened. Now I would probably have just shook my

head, attributed the problem to a sprocket issue and moved on, were

it not for the fact that the missing space, including the quarter

inch overlap, appeared after image 11. There was a black quarter

inch section of film after image 11. Looks like the camera made up

lost ground and then continued on with the rest of the roll as if

nothing happened. An explanation would be appreciated if any one has

one.

Thanks much. That worked perfectly.

I recently installed Photoshop CS and I'm haveing a problem opening

the NEF files produced by my D70. I am getting a message the the

files are the wrong type and they display in the file browser as very

tiny images. I was able to open the files with PS7 so i don't think

that there is anything intrinsically wrong witht he files. From

everything I read, I was under the impression that I could directly

open the files with the camera raw filter or by double clicking the

image int he browser. Does any one have any ideas as to what I am

doing wrong?

There are a couple of flower gardens near where I live, one in a

public park and one on private property. There is no admission price

to either and no signs posted about photographing the flowers other

than the usual 'please keep off the flower beds'. People continually

photograph, paint, or sketch the flowers. Can I photograph the

flowers and sell the images without any type of release. Is there a

copyright in effect here? Do the owners of the flowers own the right

to restrict sale of the images if there is no restrictions posted.

If the owner's of the flowers accept donations, does that change

anything.

I was at the Everglades last week. Shark valley was quite productive. I was there three different mornings and found enough to keep me busy until the sun got too high. Get there around 7:30, leave your car at the gate and walk along the canal for about a 100 yards or so. At 8:30 the gates open and yu can then park your car and continue walking the canal. I was at Anhinga trail and it was fairly slow. Mrazek pond was empty.

I will be going down to Miami next week and I'll be there for 1 week

with my family. We will be staying in South Beach. I plan to spend

a couple of days in the Everglades (Anhinga trail and on down to

Flamingo, and maybe Shark valley), Metrozoo, a 1 day trip down to the

keys, and possibly thong shooting on the beach if i am lucky. :)

 

What's the current state of Anhinga and Shark valley and does anyone

have any recommendations for places to stop along the way to the

keys? Any other recommendations?

Thanks all for your help. After your answers and with some further research I've decided to split my shooting between Velvia 100 and Portra UC. Of course I will shoot 1 or 2 rolls prior to embarking.

well I've taken the plunge and purchased a Mamiya 7II to go along

with my F100. I'll be leaving in 2 1/2 weeks to spend 10 days in New

Hampshire and Vermont shooting foliage, waterfalls, etc. Since I'll

only be getting the Mamiya next week it wont give me much time to

become very familiar with the camera but I'm taking it anyway,

wouldn't you? Although, I normally shoot slide film I'm leery about

slide film with the mamiya given my lack of experience with it. so I

am leaning to print film. anyone have suggestions as to what print

film would go well with New Hampshire in October? 400 UC sounds good

from what I'm reading but will I be able to slow it enough for the

silky water fall effect or is there a slower film that I should be

looking at? Thanks for your help.

I've tried it a few times and my experience is that it just about knocks my socks off. I don't quite have it all pinned down yet but I'd swear it looks about a 1/3 underexposed with fantastic sharpness and saturation and that's in sunlight. I've never gotten blue skies quite like that before but I know its not my camera so it must be the film.

There is an Archive to the foliagenetwork.com reports. At the bottom of the page where the maps are you can find links to the reports for prior years.