sdm

<blockquote>

<p>The exposure delay mode takes care of both so long as you are happy with 3 seconds or less. <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=442714">Edward Woods</a></p>

</blockquote>

 

<blockquote>

<p>mirror slap typically dies down after 1/10 sec or so.<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=24372">Shun Cheung</a></p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>So going by the above two observations, I understand that, by setting a <em>1sec delay</em> via the custom settings, <em>and</em> using a<em> steady tripod</em> I can have a way to beat the camera shake problem without resorting to any kind of remote control or LiveView . Am I correct ?<br>

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=488147">James Symington</a> , thanks a lot for your warning . I will keep it in mind and try my best to get round it !<br>

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2403817">Rodeo Joe</a> ... yes, you are correct ..... I am trying to get hold of some such item online, but ebay international do not cover India, we have to use ebay.in , and they do not have much stock at the moment. Thanks all the same for your inputs .</p>

<p>Thanks <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2403817">Rodeo Joe</a>, <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=488147">James Symington</a>, <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=19054">Ilkka Nissila</a> and all of you for your instructions !<br>

Please let me clarify 2 points ..... #1)Live View is not my option of choice, since I shoot mostly in situations where, I will not get power support to recharge batteries for maybe 1 week or more. And the temp will be round 0 degree centigrade. (Upper reaches of the Himalayas)<br>

#2) I would have used a remote , but it would have to be a cordless variety, (dangling cords tend to get tangled in vegetation or rocks etc. and is also very annoying in high winds). That leaves me with the option of using the ML-3, which apart from being hugely costly, also <em>blocks the hot shoe</em>, so I will not have the option of using a fill flash if necessary . I am trying to get my hands on the<em> SMDV RFN4s radio remotes</em> but seems that it is currently unavailable in India !!!!And I have a photo trip lined up the next month...... hence this situation .<br>

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=442714">Edward Woods</a> your observation is very heartening ...... it would solve my problem, just wished to verify if you are absolutely certain about this !</p>

<p>I have purchased a D800 recently, and I mostly do landscape photography. I am concerned about camera shake/vibration, specially since D800 has such a huge resolution. I find that the D800 has a <strong>MUP mode</strong>, and also a <strong>Shutter Delay(1-3 sec)</strong> custom setting . Now my question is, to get best results which route should I take ? Or should I combine <em>both</em> these methods, i.e. use MUP mode and set a delay of say 2 sec to eliminate the possibility of shake due to pressing the shutter with my finger ? More specifically, what I wish to know is whether, the delay setting will take care of <strong>BOTH</strong> the mirror vibration <em>and</em> vibration due to my finger. <br>

Note: I plan to use tripods but not a remote release .<br>

Please guide me if possible. Thanks a lot in advance !</p>

<p>Thanks once more, Robert for your help and guidence . And thanks to you too Mukul for your suggestion. Lets see how best I can manage these .</p>

<p>Thanks Robert for your advise . You have opened my eyes to a completely new approach, using a new software . But I would like to clarify 3 things......<br>

1) Can I merge multiple bracketed frames, using Photoshop or maybe Autopano or PTGui and arrive at similar results ?<br>

2) What about the dynamic range compression that you pointed out. Many of my favourite shots turn out with pretty extreme dynamic range. Actually it is the mid tones that sometimes gets sacrificed.<br>

3) I would like to experiment with your methods in future, but I already have quiet a few favourite shots where I am stuck with only normal and -1.5 exposers. What will be my best bet regarding those ?</p>

<p>When photographing landscapes, specially at dawn and dusk, I generally make two exposers, one at normal settings, the other at 1.5 stops under .(to protect the highlights ) Then during post processing, <em>I routinely drag the exposer even further down to almost 2.5 stops under . </em><br>

Now, given my prefference for dark frames, which original photo should I work with, so that after the<br /> manipulations in photoshop, I get the picture with <em>least amount of noise and other artifacts</em>, like banding etc.<br />I know, that theory says, that you should not underexpose during capture, but I am unsure whether 2.5 stops darkening in post processing will give better results than just 1 stop(-1.5 to -2.5) adjustment ? <br /><br />I use a Nikon D90 (DX format)camera and capture raw files . For post processing I use Photoshop CS-5 .<br>

So can anybody please guide me in this matter .</p>

<p>Thanks Charles, for you suggestions . I have decided to use daylight balanced(6500K) CFL tubes, and keeping the intensity such that there will be bright light on the model's face. From your response I think that I am not going far wrong . Thanks once more !!!</p>

<p>I am in the process of setting up my own studio, so I would like some advise regarding what is the ideal lighting for a makeup room; specially around the mirror and the make up bench. I am supplying the nescessary data about the size of the room, etc.<br>

Room Size = 12ft x 7ft<br>

Table top = 8ft x 2ft<br>

Mirror Size = 8ft x 4ft<br>

I plan to put lights around the 3 sides of the mirror . What I need is information about the<br>

1) Total Wattage<br>

2) Type of Lights(i.e. CFL, LED, etc. )<br>

3) Color Balance i.e. Daylight/Warm / Mixed<br>

Note: <em>I will be working with daylight balanced(6500 K ) studio flash systems.</em><br>

Thanks in Advance .</p>

<p>Thanks John , I am going to do exactly as you have prrescribed, that is wait for the new mid range FX body (D800 maybe), and then, give both of them a field run with my lenses, and decide after seeing the results . But given the expected specs of the new camera, I doubt that my old D90 stands any chance of being retained, just on the basis of its extra reach at the tele end .<br>

That said , I am surprised at the difference the lack of AA filter makes ......... but is there no downsides ?? Have to look up on this one ...!<br>

Thanks Once again .</p>

<p>Peter, I need , or rather would like to have, the FX purely for the picture quality, and the ease of framing on the large viewfinder.<br>

Eric,you are absolutely right, I need a normal zoom for the 35-70mm gap, but I plan to make do with a 50mmf1.4 till Nikon comes up with a 2.8VR in that range. But thanks for the 24-120mm f4 idea. I will now consider it.<br>

<em>"You will not see any greater reach in camera viewfinder on DX" >></em> Well this is confusing, .... from my experience I too tend to agree with Charles .<em></em><br>

Finally John , many thanks for giving me something solid to hold on. If what you say is true I will need to think again before parting with my D90. But have you noticed Frank's last paragraph ? So where do things REALLY stand as of now ? Actually, I think that, this is the real crux of the whole issue .<br>

Anyway, many many, thanks to all of you .</p>

<p>Currently I have a Nikon D90 body. I plan to buy a Nikon FX body in the near future. I will probably use the<br /> 70-200f2.8 VR(latest version) and the 16-35f4 VR which I already have. I am primarily interested in Landscape<br />work.<br /> Now my question is that, will I get any added advantage by retaining my old D90 (other than having the<br /> option of an emergency backup, in case the FX fails on location) ??<br /><br />I would like to have your expert opinion regarding the extra reach of the tele lenses on DX sensors, against the better image quality of the FX sensors. (Hence higher degree of cropping & interprolation tolerance)<br /><br />Thanks in advance for all who would take the trouble to help me .<br /><br /></p>

<p>Thanks Craig, I was also thinking on the same lines, but I wanted some experienced and authoritative advise . <br>

And yes, it is definitely watt-seconds(WS) not watt-hour..... extremely bad oversight on my part ..... thanks for correcting !!! </p>

<p>I am starting out in the field of studio photography. Initially I plan to buy <strong>3 monolights</strong> (Elinchrome D-Lite-it 4) each having <strong>400w/hr </strong>capacity , having <strong>5 stops</strong> adjustment . I also plan to have a suitable collection of light modifiers, and reflectors for my work .<br>

I will be doing glamor and fashion work, with <strong>1 to 2 human models</strong> , and will be doing full length to head shots. <br>

My studio space is ......<strong> Length = 24 ft . Width = 15 ft. Height = 11 ft.</strong> Please advise if I am making the right choice, or that I will be better off using higher / lower wattage lights .<br>

Thanking you all in advance !!!</p>

<p>I plan to put together a box for image editing work with CS5, I also do some video editing . Going through the PN forums has helped me greatly, and I have almost finalised my component list.The only dark area remains regarding the UPS unit .I plan to buy a APC model, but am confused regarding the power requirements. Please guide me on this matter. The power situation in my locality is Ok , but we do suffer from occasional low voltage and surges.<br>

<strong>CPU</strong> >> Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80601930 <br /><strong>RAM</strong> >> CORSAIR DOMINATOR 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model CMX8GX3M2A1333C9<br /><strong>MB </strong> >> MSI X58 Pro-E USB3 LGA 1366 Intel X58 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard<br /><strong>HDD </strong>>> Western Digital Caviar Black WD2001FASS 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive <br>

<strong>2ndHDD </strong> >> HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.C HDS721032CLA362 (0A39264) 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive<br /><strong>GRAPHIC CARD</strong> >> ZOTAC ZT-40402-10P GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card <br /><strong>CABINET </strong> >> COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP Black SECC/ ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case<br /><strong>PSU </strong> >> CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply <br /><strong>OPTICAL DRIVE</strong> >> ASUS 24x DVD Writer SATA Model DRW-24B1LT/BLK/B/AS LightScribe Support - OEM<br /><strong>MONITOR </strong> >> Viewsonic VX2450wm-LED 23.6" HD LED Backlight LCD Monitor w/Speakers<br>

I also plan to add another 1 TB HDD , 1 80GB SSD , and 4GB of RAM later on .<br>

<br /></p>

Many many thanks for helping me with your valuable opinions. To sum it up it seems that there is no added benifits by setting saturation etc. in the camera. Even for JPEG captures.

I use a Nikon D80 for landsacape & nature work. For JPEG files, will I be

better of, if I use the camera firmware to add saturation, contrast & sharpness

or should it be done in photoshop CS2.I know that using in-camera controls

saves lot of post production time, but quality wise which is better.

 

Shooting RAW probably bypasses the issue altogether. Am I right?

 

Will the experienced people here please help me?

 

----- Suva -----

Have you tried using the wired remote [ MC DC-1] with your D80.I am also looking for a way out of this problem.

My sugesstion is that you get hold of the following two lenses.

 

1) AF-S Nikkor 18-200 mm 3.5-5.6 G ED VR.

2) AF-S Nikkor 12-24mm f 4IF ED

*) Both are DX lenses.

 

I use the first one and plan to get the second. They are excellent lenses and should serve your purpose. You can also opt for the Tokina 12-24mm f 4 wide zoom instead of (#2) if cost is an issue.

 

But dont take my word as final, check out www.kenrockwell.com for expert, in depth analysis on both these lenses.

Hope this helps.

---- Suva ----

I am in the same boat brother. No info about the MC-DC1. I would specially like to know if the bussiness of covering the viewfinder in P/S/A modes and switching on the remote mode can be bypassed with the above chord.

I recently shifted from film(F80) to digital(D80). I miss the threaded remote

of F80 which gave me the freedom to compose and stand away to wait for right

moment. The ML-L3 requires setting up remote mode, covering the viewfinder

etc. which is creating problems outdoor, when the light is changing fast, and

I need to conserve battery power. Will th MC-DC1 chord help my purpose ?

- thamks . Suva .