eddiefreed

Sorry about the slightly large image above but that's the way I format them.

 

Here's one with the Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 at a street music night. On the Olympus, these 50mm lenses make for a wonderful portrait lens and they are dirt cheap!<div></div>

Gene Paull,

 

Just punch in Olympus digital or Olympus e-510 or anything like that on eBay and you will bring up many companies that offer Nikon to Oly 4/3 adapters. I think mine cost about $20 plus small shipping. I now use only Nikon and Olympus vintage manual lenses on my E-1. They're wonderful.

 

However, I think my vintage Nikon 50mm f/1.4 lens might be heavier than the e-510 body, but that's a great lens on an Olympus digital!!!<div></div>

There was one made for the E-300 and I bought one for my E-1 at a super price from Cameta Camera, but I don't know why Olympus is not supporting the newer cameras. The battery grip power on my E-1 seems to last forever and is a wonderful option!

Well, I like your composition and subject matter, and I think you got some interesting color effects with using a standard flatbed scanner, almost like cross-processing. We really don't want to make our Holga photos look too much like what we get from a "real" camera, now do we?! :)

The only real value it has is the joy of using a vintage 6x9 roll film camera and they do a very nice job.

How can it be a "fake" Zorki?! Zorki's are not fake. Zorki's are real Zorki's. That's what they are called and that's what they are. It may be a fake Leica but not a fake Zorki.

 

Nothing wrong with a Zorki. Very fine Leica copy with good optics, IMHO! If it's yours, use it.

Hey Larry, If you don't want it I'll take it! :)

I like those photos a lot. Very unaltered and "raw" if I may use that term.

PS: I love the "Overpass" shot.

Comment: I was looking in a B&H Catalog the other day at one of the Hasselblad digital cameras for somewhere around $35,000 for the basic unit. And then I looked at all these wonderful photographs presented here using cameras that cost, for the most part, far less than $100. I have a couple of digital SLRs that I for some "business" purposes, just to impress the clients, but my vintage camera images are equally as good, if not better, and, after the film scans, I can work on them in Photoshop and I've saved $34,900! ;)

 

Is this a "Duh!" moment or not?!

WOW !!

I hope I describe this correctly, but you might want to use one of the plastic straps that come with Yashica electros and such that have a series of slits in them and the round lug is pushed through the slits. You might be able to fit the slits on the lug on the side of your camera. You colud also use a leather strap and cut a small slit to go around the lug.

Would you please give us some details about the camera set-up and anything else you did?

Sadly, around $100.

Look on eBay.

Just buy the appropriate battery. Keep it simple and enjoy the experience.

I forgot to mention the wonderful Olympus OM-1 with the basic Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 lens ("Made In Japan" model,if possible). These are much smaller than those I listed above but they are excellent.

You have quite a list there.

 

I would suggest three as starters,to keep it very simple, and all manual with TTL metering:

 

1. Minolta 101 (series) with 50mm lens.

 

2. Pentax K1000 (made in Japan model) with 50mm lens.

 

3. Canon FTb with 50mm lens.

 

You can always add other lenses and for these cameras I would suggest prime lenses (not zooms) for optimal imaging.

 

All of these lack auto-exposure and no auto focus, of course.

 

In my opinion, this is the best way to start in b/w 35mm SLR photography. Very basic and very simple. Very little to think about.

 

These cameras do not cost much at all (under $100 complete).

 

Shop carefully and much success.

I have a few of these fine cameras.

 

They work just fine without any batteries.

 

There is also a way to adjust the reostat in the base to work with 1.5 alkalines.

 

Better you can buy Wein 1.35 zinc-air batteries to use in them or get the very inexpensive 675 zinc-air hearing-aid batteries with an O-ring to fit. They work great.

 

I just guess the exposure in advance. Takes too much time to meter!

Probably the biggest was the coming of auto exposure in the 1970's and auto focus in the 1980s.

I just received a fine Diana a few days ago. Having used Holgas I did some adjustments so I would be able to maximize the excellent qualities of it's fine lens and block intrusive light leaks! ;) I'll share some photos when I get some to share.

 

Gene, Very nice photos as usual!

you can advance the film without the window if you do such fast in the shade and keep the window covered with tape at all other times. Keeping it covered with tape is a good idea anyway. You can also put some more red plasic over it as well. No big deal. Best and success.

Just a suggestion to everyone:

 

Never use WD-40 on camera optics. "WD" means "Water Dispurant" and it is the 40th formula. It contains oil.

 

That stuff is not designed for degreasing. It adds grease (oil).

 

At the least, use lighter fluid like Rosonol and wipe everything clean, and it best to obtain a non-oil degreaser that evaporates rapidly.

Something I have noticed about all of these 1970's SLR cameras is that the picture optical quality is excellent. Body mechanics may not be as good as some more expensive brands but it sure is worth it to use these cameras for fine photography at a small fraction of the price of a Leica system, for example.

 

Very fine photos. I like the eucalyptus tree photo very much...very nice natural study.

Often you can use the film spool from a 35mm cartridge and just tape the film to it. I do that with one of my antiques. I also just tried that with my Exa and the 35mm film spool fits and works perfectly.