scott_tan1

Hi,

 

I was passed down a Mamiya RZ and a couple of lenses held together neatly in a Fotima Bag a couple of months ago.

Since then, I have added another lens and a couple of film backs and the trustworthy bag does not hold the set

anymore.

 

I'm considering getting a Billingham or a Domke but the place where I reside, does not have shops that hold these

stocks. Anyone can advice if a Billingham 225 or the Domke F-2 is suitable for my needs? I'm trying to fit an RZ

with 110mm fitted, a 50mm and a 180mm, a light meter, 2 additional film backs and a polaroid back.

 

Any help (testimonials or pictures) is appreciated before I order from online.

 

S

the clothes appear dark because not enough light is hitting on it. furthermore, black materials absorb light.

 

the simplest solution is to have a separate light for the clothes, possibly a soft light to fill in the details. flag the light if they are getting to the model's head.

 

gd luck

Hi all,

 

I've just purchased the Epson V350. Of all the possible settings, I'm scanning

my slides at 24-bit and 2400 dpi, and saving them in tiff format. My general

purpose is to scan and upload to my personal website. My monitor is calibrated

using Adobe Gamma and my photoshop profile is set to sRGB.

 

With regards to the color configuration on the scanner, I am still clueless.

I've scanned a couple of photos in Display Gamma 1.8, Display Gamma 2.2, ICM

Epson Standard sRGB, ICM Ricoh Russian-SC 040402, and no color configuration at

all. They are in the photo sets below:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zarlceiss/sets/72157600746204583/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zarlceiss/sets/72157600746495780/

 

Can anyone offer me some advice or suggestion? Thanks a lot!

Thanks again. I will probably try the new setup before I go, but most probably the film camera will be an add-on to my digital kit, therefore I'm more keen on a lighter film body.

 

As for why I'm more keen on shooting film than digital, I think there is no plausible answer to it. I believe the choice lies deep in everyone, and I certainly do not wish to start a film vs digital debate here.

 

And Michael, your pictures sure look good. Looking forward to my trip already! ^^

 

Keep the recommendations coming. Certainly wish to learn more about slide film..

Thanks for the replies. As for the location, I'm actually going to Shanghai and Hong Kong for a 10-days trip, and if slide film is going to appeal to me, I might just use them for a later trip in Southeast Asia, which is hotter and more humid.

 

I have also checked out the Fujifilm website and I realize the Sensia belongs to the consumer side, while the more popular Velvia and Provia are categorized as pro slide film. So, was that what Joe was trying to convey?

 

In the meanwhile, I'm going to try my friend's Elan 7 though and see how it goes. In any case, please keep the recommendations coming!

 

:)

Hi all,

 

I need some advice here.

 

I'm currently using all-digital with the 350D + EF 17-40mm f/4 + EF 50mm f/1.8 +

EF 85mm f/1.8. Any recommendation for a SLR that is along the lines of 350D (if

not better)? I read the review of Elan 7e, EOS 3 and EOS 1v. I'm still quite

undecided. I probably don't need a pro body though.

 

I'm also thinking of shooting film for my upcoming overseas trip. I have known

that slide film should be kept at low temperatures to keep them fresh. Any

problems if I just carry 10-20 rolls of slide film in my bag for 10 days?

 

Thanks to all!

Hi,

 

I've been offered used SB24 and SB26 at reasonable used prices. I had a dilemma

between which to choose because the SB26 comes at a higher price and if I do not

need the extra features the SB26 offer, I can save the extra bucks and invest in

a lightstand or umbrella.

 

I see that the SB-26 comes with a built-in wireless. This sounds cool. Anyone

had any experience with this feature. I currently has a Sunpak 383 and I have

been triggering it via an optical slave which is not very useful at all times

because it has to be in line of sight with the main light.

 

Anyone? Any other useful feature that the SB26 will outdo the SB24?

:)

 

Thanks for the feedback!

 

I saw a few Zenitar 16mm fisheye on ebay and the quality of the pictures taken look good! How about that?

Hi, I need some help here.

 

I'm looking for a wide angle lens for use with my 350d. I have currently a 35mm

and a 50mm which I'm loving them! However the occasional need for wide angle

still exists.

 

I'm looking for a good quality lens that is easy to carry around and will not

burn a hole in my wallet. I personally find a used EF 20mm f/2.8 as over budget.

And a 20mm is not wide enough for my usage.

 

I was thinking of getting a used manual lens with an adapter to mount on my

350d, which will definitely cost less than a canon lens. I guess focusing will

not be an issue since it will be manually-focused to infinity. Any lens

recommendations or good links to read?

Other than the pixel count and swivel screen?

 

The cost and weight of the A630 are things which are putting me off, but if the

IQ is significantly better, can anyone testify to that?

 

Thanks a million. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

 

/Scott

Hi.

 

I'm getting a digital compact for my sister and saw this LX series. For a

moment, I thought I could get this for her and share it with her on the

occasions when I decide to leave my slr at home.

 

What's turning me on:

1) Neat manual functions (way too cool for a compact that size)

2) Excellent output (albeit at low ISO)

3) RAW

 

What's going to turn her off:

1) Noise at high ISO. I know, I know, the noise issue was way overblown, and the

mega OIS is probably going to help her hold at 1/8sec. But I guess it also means

that taking photos in dim conditions (parties, at dusk, etc) using ambient light

and taking action pictures (like kids/pets running around indoors) becomes

impossibly hard. Am I right?

 

So before I start to make a buying decision based more on my own interest (the

black finish sure looks cool hur?), I would like to find out if the LX-1 is an

excellent all-rounder? Or is it more suitable for the photographers who know

what they are doing?

 

I guess I know the answer, but in any case, I might still get a tip or two from

current users. Thanks for reading anyway.

 

/Scott

Hmn...Yakim, what do you mean by pre-visualization? Care to elaborate?

 

Okay, it's really down to my shooting style, I can see. 10-16 will allow me to shoot ultra-wide, but i doubt the need for ultra wide will always happen, and for that price and my budget, I can't justify to have that as my main lens. It will certainly cripple my ability to shoot all other things un-wide.

 

I believe 35mm f/2 can help solve half the problem, but the question is can I stand not having zoom? Dilemma dilemma dilemma.

 

Meanwhile, 17-40mm takes the lead! :P

Thanks guys! These are really some great ideas being shared!

 

Don't get me wrong, I like the 17-35. In fact, my shooting style is seldom beyond 50mm. The lens (Tamron) build, however, feels poor to me. And the absence of USM makes me wishing for it. I bought it because I wanted to try out wide angle and it was cheap and sharp. I sold it because I felt it was time to get a better wide angle lens.

 

I took Dan's advice and went back to look at my pictures and I realize most of my pictures ( I would say 90%) are taken at either side of the zoom range. I believe if I can zoom 5mm more on either side, I would do so most of the time! Perhaps that's a testimonial to the convenience of a good general zoom lens.

 

I like the 10-22mm, 35mm f/2 and 50mm f/1.8 combination that Yakim suggested. In that case, I believe I will be walking around with the 35mm f/2 most of the time and when I see a picture that will be great at wide angle, I will mount the 10-22. Which means I lose the convenience that 17-40 will give me. However, it gives me the option of shooting between 10mm to 16mm, something that will not happen if I use the 17-40mm!

 

Somehow, after hearing a round of debates and opinions, my heart edges towards 17-40mm, purely for convenience sake. BOTH lenses are great, in my opinion. Tried them personally and no doubts about their quality. It's just that sometimes you wish to hang the camera around your neck and shoot away, and not carry a bagful of lenses around. And while changing your lens, the shot might just slip away. I know this sounds lazy but well.. :)

 

Still, it's going to take quite a bit of convincing before I finally bite the bullet, buy it and not regret it! :)

Ronaldo>I do want the 10-22 first. I like it a lot but I do wonder how frequent I will be using it and bringing it around. After all it will be a walkabout lens I'm buying and I cant determine if it will be a good walkabout lens unless I bring it out of the shop for a day :) i'm not really looking for 3rd parties because the last time I had a 3rd party, i kept thinking if getting the canon equivalent would be a wiser move.

 

Mars>i do not have the kit lens. indeed, when i had the 17-35mm (tamron), i do not feel amazed by it. so i wonder how the slower 17-40 with the extra 5mm at the further end will make me go 'wow'. but then again i'm thinking realistically because if 10-22 is very niche towards landscape, the 17-40 will naturally allow me to take more pictures.

 

yakim>nice idea. i was thinking of getting a 35mm f2 along with the 10-22 because i already have the 50mm. my budget will allow me to get either the 10-22 or the 17-40 (they cost almost the same) and half of the other. :)

 

i shoot portraits, landscape and street. for portraits, i mostly do it indoors so my 50mm will get it cover. street-wise, i usually walk around and just shoot anything that comes across as interesting. and thus i'm thinking hard if the 10-22 will allow me to do so.

 

of course, it is easier to zoom in with my legs, than zoom out. but if i want to shoot something close with the 10-22, will distortion comes into play?

 

looking forward to more great opinions..THANKS

 

Scott

Hi all, I'm sure some of you have this dilemma before, so I would like to seek

the general opinion before spending this huge amount of cash.

 

I am interested in both lenses and I think they complement each other pretty

well. I'm using the 350d and do not intend to go to FF or get back to film.

Both lenses cost a bomb and I can only afford one at a time. So what will be a

better lens that will stay on the camera most of the time, so that I can buy it

first and save for the other much later on.

 

The 10-22 is great because it appears like a 16-35 would on a FF. But will the

ultra wide limits me to shooting landscape and the such ONLY? Do anyone of you

guys actually use it extensively to shoot street, people or anything else.

 

Alternatively, the 17-40 is a more common walkabout lens. but i already own a

17-35mm before (and it's sold) so I'm like thinking whether I should try the

ultra-wide for a change.

 

To cut my story short (and thanks for reading), do you guys shoot more with the

10-22 or the 17-40? Can the 10-22 be used to replace the 17-40 as a walkabout

lens? I'm sure many of you will say it depends on what I like to shoot and I

should try both lens at a shop or something. But what I really seek for is the

experience and opinion of fellow users.

 

Thanks a million.

 

Scott

wow. I really appreciate the advice guys. The links and everything are more than I can absorb in one night. Currently my friend is asking me to shoot at his company's annual dinner. I have this idea of setting up a photo booth whereby my friends and I will set up our equipment at one corner and get small groups to pose for us against some backdrop. And my 2 Sunpak 383 will come in to provide the lighting.

 

One thing to clarify. When I have the Sunpak 383 set to auto and on my hotshoe, I will set the power of the flash and then the prescribed lens aperture, and the flash will do the rest for me as long as I stand within the effecive range. Do I make sense? :)

 

What if I take the flash off-camera and have it set to manual? Just wondering the difference between having the flash set in auto and manual. When using manual, dDoes it mean that the correct lens aperture/flash power is obtained by constantly reviewing the histogram (since I do not have a light meter)?

Hi all,

 

Before my 2 manual flash get shipped to my house next week, I'm reading up a bit

on studio lighting and learning at the same time. I know manual flash are not

the best for studio work but due to budget, I shall bear with it for the moment.

 

I'm planning to put one on my hotshoe and another as slave. The one on my

hotshoe will trigger the slave, and tata, I get my picture.

 

Okay, here comes my question.

 

1) With my manual flash, I'm unable to preview what it's like before the shot.

When I meter for the subject, it may read f/2.8 and 1/60 but I'm aware that I

will be firing flash, which the camera does not know. So I assume I should

adjust the meter reading to f/4 or more to deal with the expected increase in

light. My question is: is there a rule-of-thumb that you guys used, or do you

just use the LCD and trial and error until you see something that you like? I'm

asking because sometimes when I shoot film or in events where the group of

people will not wait forever for you to trial and error, it's faster if we know

how these lights affect the exposure reading. I read on the flash specs about

f/stops on the flash. Do they come into play? I was thinking it is likely so.

 

2) I assume that my flash on the hotshoe will be my main light and the slave to

fill the shadows. I believe there are other combi and it would be great to hear

more.

 

That's about all. I have tonnes of questions before the shipment arrives, so

maybe you guys out there have some great lighting tips to share. If my way of

describing sucks or the jargon is all wrong, shame on me and LOL..but I still

want to hear out any advice.

 

Thanks,

Scott.

I have this flash that came with a manual camera. I was wondering if it will

work on the 350D without doing anything damaging to it (the 350D that is). Any

kind users of this flash care to elaborate? I've read that 350D can take up to

300V but I can't seem to find anything useful about this flash anywhere on the

net. Thanks.

I currently own a Tamron 17-35 f/2.8-4. The quality's been good but I do not

like 2 aspects. First, my personal preference: I do not like the way the focus

ring turn against my hand and the way it hunts while trying to auto focus.

 

Secondly: Because I shoot a lot at 35mm, the minimum of f/4 is not something I

desire. Sometimes [at low light, I live in gloomy Singapore], I just wish I can

go 1 or 2 stops lower.

 

Most of the time, I shoot at the extreme ends at 17mm or at 35mm. I'm using

350d which has a 1.6x crop.

 

I'm thinking of a couple of options.

 

1) I can easily sell off this lens and get a decent 35mm f/2 at about the same

price. I can then use it as my main lens. However, I lose my 'wide angle' which

I use half of the times shooting landscape.

 

2) I can sell off this lens and get a 17-40mm f/4, which will solve my first

problem. I know several people find these 2 lens to be similar but I have tried

the 17-40 and it was awesome. Silent, excellent quality build and quick

focusing. Everything's cool, just that I have to top up the cash and live on

with 35mm at f/4. Not being able to shoot at f/2.8 at 17mm doesn't affect me

much because I usually use f/8 onwards while shooting landscape.

 

3) Or get both, and requires some decent saving up on my part. And I have a

feeling that if I get both, the zoom (17-40 or 17-35) lens will be my walkabout

lens, and this will somehow decrease my usage of the 35mm lens.

 

So there. My problem lies with having to shoot 35mm at f/4. Does anyone here

have the same dilemma? Does anyone by chance uses a 17-40 or 17-35 zoom and

complement it with a 35mm f/2?

 

Thanks. Scott.

Another thing is, I guess I pretty much need a flash light meter to enable me to take my exposure reading accurately, since I will be doing things manually? Cheers and happy holidays!

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will look into the cheaper alternatives first. As some of you mentioned, I would like to see the outcome before taking the shot, so strobes will be the way to go in the future. Therefore, I will not want to spend too much money on getting the flash. The cost of the speedlites are pretty expensive and for that price, I should able to get a few of the cheaper flash.

 

My next question is should I get in first-hand or second-hand? Do these have a limited lifespan? By the way, I reside in Singapore and it looks seemingly impossible to get a Sunpak or equivalent. Any other recommendation for cheap and good manual flash?

 

Thanks, Scott.

I have been shooting with available light using 350d for a year now. I believe

my interest lies in shooting portraits and is currently considering of doing

shoots in my own apartment.

 

To me, the world of lighting seems to exist in a different context altogether.

I have a few questions: is it possible to create external lighting using 2

flashes and reflectors? I have read about slave and triggers but have no idea

where to starting learning about them. Anyone has access to a beginner's guide

or something? Lastly, which speedlights will you recommend for my description

of use?

 

Thanks.

Well, it was easy to take out, hard to put everything back in.

 

A few small things (spring, ball bearing, L-shaped plate, etc) fell out before I could try to memorize where they are supposed to be. The lens can now be used at all f-stops, but the absence of that ball bearing causes the aperture ring to not 'click' at the respective f-stops.

 

Well, at least I can use all the various f-stops now.

The problem is still there when I remove the lens from the body. I shall try to dismantle it this weekend and see how it goes.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

The aperture ring is real tight and I couldn't bear to force it to turn. I will probably unscrew the lens and give the method a try.