hkbmac
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Posts posted by hkbmac
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That is flare from the bright lightsource on the side of the frame.
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Bob, how can you say the XT is a better camera before anyone has actually shot with it? The specs might look a bit better, but honestly (for me) its the quality of the images that counts. FWIW I own a 20d and a digital rebel.
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I use (and have used) a Strboframe Press-T bracket for the past 6 years. It works great.
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Last time I checked hoods were designed to block stray light, not balance the look of a camera.
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there is an 877 # on the web-rebates.com/canon site after you check your status. Good luck.
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Overkill? I own this lens and it is a nearly perfect walk around lens for both film and digital bodies. The IS works great, and the images really pop.
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its the sign of a well built pro lens.
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your link is busted.
<P>
<I>I fixed the link. -- Shun Cheung</I>
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If I were you, I'd look into the Digital Rebel. There are a ton of them on the used market because of drones thinking they need to upgrade to the 20d to be "professional" You can probably get a good deal on one.
The EF lenses work on all Canon Auto Focus bodies and all their DSLR's.
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I switched from Capture One to Bibble recently and don't see Phase One getting any upgrade money from me any time soon. In my opinion, Bibble is a much more robust product.
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They will work, but not in TTL mode. AFAIK Minolta is the only one with a non standard mount.
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Get a wein safesynch hotshoe to pc adapter and you are both protected and in business.
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I just received a digital rebel today. I am shocked as to how quiet it is compared to my 20d. I bought the rebel as a backup, but it may be used as my main cam when taking shots in places such as the theater, etc.
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Are you turnign the camera off while the images are being written to the card?
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Do you own cameras to look at them or shoot with them?
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nope
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The 2.8 versions come with it installed. They are hard to find used because most people end up selling their F4 lenses with them installed. Canon's pricing is a little crazy sometimes. $60 for a plastic lenshood, etc.
You can look on eBay for a Grey Market one.
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When doing copy work Sharpness is crucial. That is why I suggested the 50 1.8. I'm sorry, but the lenses you just suggested, while they have the "L" tag on them aren't as suited for copy work as the prime lenses.
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The 50 1.8 would work fine for the copy work. It focuses close, and doesn't have the distortion a wider lens would give you. You'll need a little owrking distance to get the entire 5' of painting in there. I would keeep the kit lens for a general walk around lens. If you get a good sample, it will be plenty sharp for most of your general walk around and portrait stuff.
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The look of the images straight out of the camera are pretty darn close. The main changes are the autofocus sensor, flash sync speed, the buffer, the start up time, and a few others. If this is worth the difference go for it, if you are happy with the 10d, there is nothing wrong with it, it is a fine camera.
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I have four from Sterlingtek.com They worked in my 10D and now 20D no problems charging them with the new canon charger either.
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FWIW my 28-135 IS has just about replaced my 17-40 as my "walk around lens". I use the 85 1.8 for shooting basketball and other indoor non-flas sports photography. and the 50 1.8 for portraits. I've got other lenses but these are the ones I use most of the time.
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If your camera is worth more than $50 (the cost of a safe sync) I would use a safe sync.
Best raw converter for a 20D.
in Canon EOS Mount
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