dan_unkefer

Hi All,

 

I just bought a (version 2) 90mm f2 chrome Leitz Summicron. Although I don't have the

lens yet, I believe this does take the E48 sized Leitz filters. But will the early E48 for

the Thambar/200 Telyt also fit my Summicron? I'm hoping that the threading, or

something else, is not different with these.

 

Thanks for your response!

 

-Dan

I shoot respooled Kodak 2424 in my Kiev 60 camera, with the 30mm Arsat Fisheye lens. I contacted ARAX in the Ukraine, and purchased from him a number of "extra" original Arsat filters, at an excellent price. I then removed the original glass from the filter, to put in my substitiute.

 

I have tried many, some filters are too 'thick" and alter the infinity focus capability of the Arsat. The -BEST- choice are the Minolta 39mm Rokkor Filters for the Minolta 500mm Mirror Rokkor. They made a yellow K2, a very nice deep Orange, and a -RED- which works very well with Kodak 2424. BTW this is the same emulsion as Kodak High Speed Infared, for awhile it was available respooled in 120 rolls :)

I recently bought a really nice late J-12 from Fedka, to go on my new M2. I also have the 35mm f2.5 CV Skopar, and the 35mm CV f1.7 Ultron. I'm a big fan of the 35mm FOV with the M2, and the J-12 is certainly not a dissapointment in any way, optically or mechanically. In fact, it is rather startling, how well the Biogon design cuts an image. I definately like it! In fact need to get out and work with it more, as it has finally warmed up around here.

 

It has a great "look", especially with the older types of emulsions I currently prefer.

I recently bought a beater M2, had one twenty years ago, hated to sell it. This one is also a button-rewind, but it's later, so I don't have to hold the button in during rewinding. It's incredibly smooth, and the thrill is back. Had to soup it up with a Abrahamsson Rapidwinder, and a Wasserman film rewind. Original black leather strap, and it's a total thing of retro beauty. Built like a tank, it's an incredible machine.

Brian,

 

I've been slowly and carefully buying up 70mm type perforated II emulsions over the last couple of years, from many different sources, and storing them in my deep freeze. I have over twenty-five cans presently, high-speed, low speed, color, B&W. I have six fully functional 'blad A70 magazines, and I'm using them :)

 

I've yet to come across a bad roll.

Alin,

 

I can definitively answer this one. The film back in your Pentacon-Six has a light leak. See the ridged "lines" around the fogged area on your film? Now look inside the P6 and see the same pattern around the film plate. The stray light leaking into the filmback bounces around the "ridges", and creates the distinctive streaking pattern. It's unmistakeable. I got some replacement camera foam on ebay, stripped and cleaned off the old, rotten foam, and put replacements on all my Pentacon Sixes. No more light leaks since then. BTW I think the P6 is better to use than any of my Kiev 6c's or K60.

Thanks Radford.

Good to know it is fixable.

Now I'll take it to a good repair shop, seems like an easy repair.

-Dan

Hi All,

 

Here's a question for those of you that repair Minolta SRT cameras. I have a

nice Minolta SR-M camara body, the motorized SRT body, which works great. But

when all my lens are fit onto this particular body, they do not fit

as "tightly" as they fit on my other (six) Minolta SRT bodies. There is no

play at all in my other SRT bodies.

 

Are there shims under the Minolta bayonet ring, or is they a good way to take

out the "slop" or "play" in the way this body mounts lenses? I'm looking

forward to using it, but it's annoying, when focusing, the image "jumps"

or "bounces" as the lenses slide around on the body :-(

 

Is there any way to get rid of this annoying feature of this particular body?

Many Thanks for any replies!

 

-Dan

Thanks for responding, Guys!

 

BTW, Here's Tom, on UTube, showing how to use the Rapidwinder:

 

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=paluDNau7Lw

 

I'm sometimes a left eye shooter, so I think I'm going to like this thing. I've got a nice Minolta SR-M motordrive camera, but that's not we have here :) -Dan

Hi All,

 

Got a package in the mail today from Tom Abrahamsson at Rapidwinder.com. I

bought from him a used (now out of production) M2 Rapidinder for my (new to me)

button-wind Leica M2 coming from the Netherlands, won in an online auction.

Have yet to see my new camera, but Wow, I really like the Rapidwinder. There's

no comparison to the build-quality versus the Voigtlander Trigger Winder that I

have on my Bessa-T.

 

I'm returning back to the early Leica M2, after twenty years of being without

the camera (which I really needed to sell at the time). I know I'm going to

enjoy using it :-)

Hi All,

 

I have recently picked up a couple of the Hasselblad #52051 Meter Prism

Finders, to use on my 500CM's and ELM's. Both came with modern 1.5V silver

batteries, which power the meters fairly well, but not always in agreement with

my reference light meter, a Zone VI Pentax Digital. So I want to replace those

silver batteries with Wein cells, for now. But, when I drop the Wein cells into

both meters, I get -nothing-.

 

So, what is the trick? A ball of aluminum foil to make good battery contact?

Can David Odess, or anybody else, adjust these wonderful old meters to work

properly with modern batteries?

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

-Dan

Hello florin b

 

I have a functioning Hasselblad Ring Flash, which I had restored at "New York Flash Clinic". You can google to find them. They also replaced the -smoked- original flash tube, and checked-out, my two Norman 200b powerpacks, that fire through this thing. 200ws, 100ws, or 50ws.

 

-Dan, pretty cool stuff IMHO.

100mm black T* Planar, 120mm black T* S-Planar, 150mm black T* Sonnar, depending on the use. Will shoot with and without Softar, sometimes shoot it both ways. Use the #1(mostly), #2, and on occasion, the #3.

Hi All,

 

I recently acquired an original Hasselblad Blimp for the EL/M. It included a

seperate canvas lens cover, which -precisely- fits my 350mm C Tele-Tessar.

The "camera cover" is padded light green canvas, and precisely fits the EL/M

with a 70mm back (which I still frequently use) and NC-2 Prism finder. There

is a leather "patch" with the Hasselblad logo, which has a cross-cut hole for

your finger to reach the release button.

 

It pretty effectively muzzles the EL/M. Is there anything I'm overlooking, it

seems to be one of the more rare accesoories for this model. Don't have it in

any of my catalogs, or literature on this thing.

 

Thanks, -Dan

I recently found a plate back for my Plaubel makiflex cameras. I have the Standard, and the Automatic models. The Plate holder has a sliding-lock mechanism, with two settings. One for 4x5 Linhof pressure-plate type 4x5 holders (I have a few of those), or you can reset it, to take standard 4x5 Graphic-type holders (eg:Polaroid 4x5).

 

It produces a 9x9cm image with 4x5 cut film. -Very- cool:)

Jonathan,

I've been gathering usuable 70mm film and hardware for several years. If you are persistant, you can still find it around. I have six A70 backs, which I use with well over roughly twenty+ assorted type II emulsions I have accumulated in my deep freeze. Mostly aerial films, but -very- usuable for pictorial use. I have about fifteen 100' rolls of Kodak Surveillance film, which I actually prefer to Tri-X, when developed in Pyro PMK+.

 

Kindermann made a 70mm daylight tank (I have one) and a 70mm loading stand (which I also have). All you really need is some Kodak 70mm cassettes, you can load them by hand, that is what I do. Don't waste money on a 70mm bulk loader, you don't need one, really.

 

I can also run unperforated film through any of my film backs (Ekfe makes fresh 70mm EI100, I have some) by unscrewing the cogged wheel in the A70, and replacing it with a custom-made wheel, with a black neoprene washer around the outside, that pulls unperforated stock through the A70 without a bit of problem. I have three of these, I picked up on ebay, no longer available, unfortunately. Good luck, and don't give up:)

 

-Dan

Dusan,

 

I have a body labeled Hartblei 1006M. It takes Hasselblad backs, and I actually like using it, it's been relaible for about three years, and it takes so many wonderful lenses.

 

And, I have two Hasselblad 500CM's, and two Hasselblad ELM's, so there:)

William,

Yes the 'blad old backs load similarly, like the K88 old backs. Twist-wind the key to frame "1", through the peephole, then back-wind using the key, to set the counter to 1.

I'll wager it's just you, if the lens does not have any issues.

 

I have seen razor-sharp files from a wide-open 180mm f2.8 CZJ Sonnar (actually the diaphram is not working, only has wide-open)shot with digital Canon.

 

Looks great to me.

I have a large boom softbox in my studio. It's an old Broncolor Hazylight, with UK Broncolor boom and original counterweight set. It's been dropped into a Matthews (Hollywood) rolling stand, impossible to knock-over.

 

You could hurt yourself on that thing!

Hi Roland,

Thanks for the info on the Imagon book. I'll look for it.

 

AFAIK, Schmactenburg at some point urged Rodenstock to reintroduce the 120 Imagon, and convinced them to create the rare 150 cell set. His studio in Soleigen also produced the helical tubes and other parts for Rodenstock. I have been told Zoerk was not meeting demand for the parts at the time.

 

My new lens is ebay #140059796277, the original box has stickers marked "Schmactenburg Foto Products". Looks new in the box.

 

I'm hoping to find another original owner of the 120, so I can figure out if the unit is complete (I have been told it is missing the supplemental extension tube for the 150 cell). I'm hoping to find an original Pentacon Six adapter, but I'm confident I can have one made up by a competant photo machinist.

Hi All,

 

Just won an auction in Germany for an original 120mm Rodenstock Imagon, with

Scmactenburg focusing tube, and Canon FD mount. The lens is new in the box. I

also have a new 150mm Rodenstock Imagon cell set, which I understand will

interchange on the Schmactenburg focusing tube.

 

Is anybody out there familar with this lens? My intention is to have an

adapter made, to fit my Exakta 66 MK3. I believe Rodenstock used to offer the

adapter in P6. Does anybody know?

 

Dan, would like to find Rodenstock instructions for these things.

I use the #40274 with my 50mm Distagon, it was also intended for the 60mm Distagon.

 

Wanting something a bit more efficent, I decided to make my own. I bought a 67mm tele-hood (nicely made) and carefully measured and trimmed it with a cutting wheel on my dremel. I've used it for several years, never had any issues with it, except I'd like to find a spring-loaded lenscap that fits it :) Wish Hasselblad would have made something like that.

Hi, I recently had my Hasselblad Ringlight converted to fit my Norman 200b pack. New York Flash Clinic did the conversion. Cost was around $250, which included replacing the original flashtube (they are no longer available, but they have them). Unit works great, I get a full 200 watt seconds (or 100 or 50) into the flashtube, and about a 1 sec recycle with my new batteries.

 

Recommended.

I'll second the use the 250mm and 150mm lenses. I have the black T* variety. Recently I picked up a black 120mm f5.6 T* S Planar, and I'm using that one quite frequently for portraits. I really like using this lens, the results are particularly satisfying. It's also surprising how bright the image is to view, for a 5.6 lens:)