stanleys

<p>Tough question. You should give your best effort at any price, what can you do to reduce your costs and pass the savings on?</p>

<p>I don t subscribe to the idea that you should shoot JPEG until you get good, I ve never seen a bad photo turned into a good photo by using RAW.</p>

<p>I have gone back to re-develop old RAW images as my PS skills and software got better, and have been happy with the results.</p>

<p>Stanley</p>

<p>I've purchased some books on making DVD's and video editing, but none seem to address the things I want to know.</p>

<p>I've been asked to make a DVD slideshow of a local event. I'm using adobe Premier Pro and Encore CS3 and believe I can use them well enough to complete the DVD. After viewing the first test, I found the images were soft with poor detail in the shadows and highlights.<br>

I've read that the NTSC format uses a compressed color scheme and a pixel aspect ratio of 0.9 on a normal sized screen.</p>

<p>Can anyone tell me how to prepare an image for display in a widecreen DVD slideshow production. What dimension, PAR, colorspace etc to use. I use photoshop CS3.</p>

<p>Thank You, Stanley.</p>

<p>Sorry, I thought I was asking the same thing in a less confusing way.</p>

<p>Excellent question. I'm very interested in reading the responses.<br>

Does anyone know where to get information on how to color manage, size and sharpen images for a high quality blue-ray / DVD slide show?</p>

<p>It looks like a sensor problem to me. Do all your pictures look like that?</p>

<p>I'm with Lex, I can't take a sharp picture without a viewfinder pressed to my face or a tripod and a shutter release.<br>

I'm not sure what you're trying to teach your kid though. If trends continue; viewfinders will be completely replaced with LCDs, and SD cards will be replaced with blue tooth before she's five.<br>

Photography has nothing to do with gear. If you teach her about lighting and composition, it will improve her photography more than a viewfinder. Cheap and good cameras without viewfinders easily available now, and cameras with viewfinders likely won't be available by time she's 13.<br>

Canon elph 950 is a good camera.</p>

<p>I agree that a better lens will make a bigger difference than a camera upgrade.<br>

I'm not sure it would be as obvious to me if I had not spent a year using the kit lens before upgrading. Looking at my pictures for a year, and learning how to use my camera allowed me to appreciate the better lens when i finally got it.</p>

<p>Although I don't own one, I've heard that the nikon 18-55mm kit lens is very good for IR photography. I use the hoya r72 filter with my D70 and an old 20mm f3.5 lens with good results.<br /> I'm not sure, but your camera is modern enough to have a good IR filter in front of the sensor, making IR photography difficult or impossible.<br /> If you own the filter already, give it a try.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Julie.<br>

I'm sure Mr. Obama, or Kraft, would contact us in the unlikely event that they want to use our images.</p>

<p>If you're looking for respect, It isn't available at the copyright office. Respect is created when people treat others as they want to be treated. Be courteous. Show up on time, dress for the occasion, all the basic 'that we learned in Kindergarten' stuff will go a long way to creating an atmosphere of respect.</p>

<p>If you're looking for power to threaten or coerce people, you can try the copyright office. I'd be surprised if it's worth the time, effort and money required.</p>

<p>I'm sorry if I sound rude, I don't mean to be. Photography is not the business for people who want power and influence, there are too many people who think that they can do it.</p>

<p>Stan</p>

<ol> </ol>

<p>I have a hard time understanding these issues. But, I don't make my main income from photography.</p>

<p>When I'm paid for a gig; I produce images for an agreed price. I believe that the photos have value only to people involved in the event, and price accordingly.</p>

<p>The stuff I post is my 'photography.' If someone steals it, it's cause they think I'm good. I can live with that.</p>

<p>Stan</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The F90 was a step below the Nikon pro camera at the time, and has more in common with the D300/D700 bodies. The D90 is a digital equivalent to the F80.</p>

<p>I would get a second hand 55mm f2.8 micro, they're cheap and good.<br>

If you don't intend to use lighting or a tripod, you might want to look at getting a point and shoot camera. Some are very good, have tons of DOF and have wide-angle macro ability.</p>

<p>I had the same problem with mine after I dropped it. Is the focus ring stiff or the zooming action tight / loose? I'm not sure if it would be economical to fix.</p>

<p>It's a good idea to try it on another camera.</p>

<p>Do you have photoshop? If you do, it's easy.</p>

<ol>

<li>open the image (ctrl+o, and browse)</li>

<li>open the hue/saturation box (ctrl+u)</li>

<li>grab the hue slider and adjust to taste (I used -14)</li>

<li>save the image (ctrl+s)</li>

</ol>

<p>As for your camera, I would use the WB presets (sun,cloudy,tungsten etc) instead of the automatic. The results of the AWB can be hard to predict.</p>

<p>Stan</p>

<p>Using Hue/Saturation in photoshop I got this. Minus 14 on the hue slider.</p><div></div>

<p>I've played a bit with a D70 and a IR filter. The exposures were not extremely long (about 15 seconds under a cloudy sky with a moderate aperture).<br /> What ISO are you using? Are you using very small apertures?</p>

<p>Barry, I extended the time my camera stays 'awake' so I don't have to keep my finger on the shutter.</p>

<p>I have been using the GP-1 module with my D300 for about a year, and don't find it obtrusive at all. It finds satellites very quickly and stays on my camera strap, leaving the hotshoe free.</p>

<p>Not sure what I'm looking at, but that doesn't look to me like a shutter failure. The first one looks like a file problem, and the second, I don't know what you were trying to do.</p>

<p>I doubt that.</p>

<p>In Peter's defense.<br>

There are many tools, methods and camera modes available for evaluating the light in a scene. Center weighted metering was a 60's attempt at matrix metering, and is now the least predictable metering method available.</p>

<p>It's reasonable to assume that the people still using it have used it for a long time, and are not interested in learning anything new.</p>

<p>fogey, <strong>fogy</strong> [ˈfəʊgɪ]</p>

<em>n</em> <em>pl</em> <strong>-geys</strong>, <strong>-gies</strong>

<strong><br /></strong>

 

an extremely fussy, old-fashioned, or conservative person (esp in the phrase <strong>old fogey</strong>)

 

[of unknown origin]

<strong>fogeyish</strong> , <strong>fogyish</strong> <em>adj</em>

<em><br /></em>

<strong></strong><em><br /></em>

 

<em>(borrowed from an online dictionary)<br /></em>

 

 

<p>I use the NIK silver effects in PS3, and can't reproduce the look using any other method. I'm surprised that you cannot use it in NX2. Did you look for any other download versions, or install it in the right location?</p><div></div>

<p>I think the D90 might expose for a punchier image out of the camera, and the D700 will expose more neutrally do preserve information for post-processing.</p>

<p>The spot and center metering modes are used to determe the proper exposure on a specific part of the image, your tripod test would not have addressed this.</p>

<p>I use exposure compensation all the time. The camera can only tell me what it thinks is the right exposure, I have to do the rest.</p>

<p>It's kinda cheating, but the <em>NIK silver effects</em> plugin does better B&W conversions than anything I have been able to do in CS3 alone, and I have tried a lot of methods (channel mixer, lab colorspace and others). I think it's available for a free trial, might be worth a look.</p>