mike_cohen6

<p>Can anyone tell me if a meter from a Vitomatic IIa can be installed in any others of the series?<br>

Many thanks<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Thanks for the help Floyd. As it happens the Rollei charger I have has stopped working so I've fitted the cradle that takes the pack with a charger that will handle both Nimh & NiCad. I posted because I've seen warnings on the net against using Nimh, though I've never understood the rationale (other than the unsuitability of the original charger for Nicad). You've set my mind at rest.</p>

<p >I have a Rolleiflex 3003 battery pack with removable batteries, currently 600 mAh Nicads. I know the Rollei charger is designed only for Nicad, but is there any reason (like damage to the camera) for not replacing the Nicads with Nimh or with higher capacity Nicads?</p>

<p >Grateful for any advice.</p>

<p>Just seen this & thought I'd add that the thermometer is less useful that it might be: the response time is very slow.</p>

<p>I've just answered my own question: B & T work without the shutter being cocked.</p>

<p>I've just picked up one of these, 'MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN' on the bottom leatherette, s/n 9317, Hexar 50mm, 3.5 (no 10508). Could anyone tell me how to operate B and T? If I set it to either I can't cock the shutter.</p>

<p>Thanks for these helpful responses. I had (with great trepidation) to reprogram my standard Hexar to accept alternative guide numbers if I wanted to use anything other than the HX-14 in flashmatic: in the end, after reading around I settled on a Nikon SB-20. </p>

<p>Are there any (dis)advantages to using the HX-18w rather than the HX-14 on a Hexar AF?<br>

Thanks in advance for any help.<br>

<br />Mike</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice Fred and Rick. It made things a whole lot easier.</p>

 

<p>Could anyone tell me how to remove the lens/shutter assembly from a Bolsey B2? Mine needs thorough cleaning.<br>

Many thanks<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Hi all<br>

I have one of these in excellent condition except that it's missing the left hand focus button. Does anyone have spares? I'd pay a reasonable price, and of course shipping to the UK.<br>

Many thanks<br>

Mike</p>

If you still have the Yashica Mat EM I'd be interested in buying just the meter. (I have a good EM with a dead meter). Sorry to be so late, only just picked this up.

Regards

Mike

Thanks Tony. It does free up after firing 3/4 times. I think the answer must be to exercise it before loading film and hope for the best; the worst that would happen is 3/4 shots wasted if the mirror sticks again. I've shot a couple of rolls with it--the results are very good, and I love the feel of it. Everything seems fine apart from the mirror problem--even the slow speeds seem good and the diaphragm seems to respond instantaneously.

I have a Contaflex Super (older version). Works fine, but the mirror sometimes

sticks and the shutter needs to be fired 3/4 times before it comes up. I'm

loth to mess around with the insides. Is it OK to leave it cocked?

Grateful for any help.

Mike

Thanks Winfried -- what lubricant would you recommend?

thanks

I have a Vito B which makes a terrible squeal when I focus. The only way of

avoiding it is to put some pressure away from the camera body on the focusing

ring. Is it a matter of lubrication, or something else?

thanks for any ideas.

Mike

Having looked carefully I see now that there is indeed a screw thread, and I guess 29.5mm is right. I'd like a skylight and or a UV (though since I want also to protect the lens I'd take something else if you had it).

Many thanks

I have a Retina IIIS with Retina-Ysarex f2.8/50mm. Can someone advise me on

the right filters? Thanks