ksp

<p>Hi Henry,<br>

I don't see them advertised on the website? Are they there? Can I see samples of them?<br>

Regards,<br>

Ken</p>

<p>I've been looking everywhere! If anyone out there shoots sports teams for a living and/or knows where to source large backgrounds - say 15-20 feet wide by 12-16 feet long - or whatever is 'standard', I would appreciate any help...especially if you can give me the name of a company in Canada?<br>

Regards,<br>

Ken</p>

<p>I agree with the above, but one thing to ensure BEFORE you rent / purchase anything is that you are in fact allowed to photograph the event? If there is already a company photographing it (and therefore selling images in the lobby) then in most cases the parents / audience is not allowed to photograph - each venue will have different rules but I would definitely check first. Also, if you are allowed, you will definitely want to bring a monopod with you as well. Anytime you use a longer lens (i.e. 70-200) in low-light (esp.) you should do everything you can to keep it steady. Good luck!</p>

<p>Thanks all for the feedback! I've got a little better understanding of my requirements, however seeing as this topic seems to come up often it would be nice if this site was able to somehow list all the different types of 'forms' (?) that a photographer may require throughout their career and a little bit about each of their uses, etc. I've found it very difficult to go back through hundreds of posts to find the info I'm looking for...a popular topic should have it's own link because I would imagine that if I had enough time to dig through all those posts I would have my answers 'specifically' (not to take away from what you've all provided here), but the reality is I don't have that much time - as with most of us I spend most of my time on the computer POST PROCESSING! LOL<br>

Anyway, I think I'll head down to the library and find a good book on the topic of Canadian legal forms and see what I come up with?<br>

Thanks again all...really appreciate your time.<br>

Cheers,<br>

Ken</p>

<p>I've checked the forums here but couldn't find any that specifically 'list' the names of the forms/releases I require? Once I have those, I'm okay as I know they would need to be worded to cover my specific areas of concern. I just want to ensure I am covering all my bases as they say. Eg. List of the different types of model releases (for TF*, paid work, publishing, limited use, etc. etc) and anything that should DEFINITELY be included in them...or better left out (for my protection)?</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I am asking the question simply to ensure I don't miss anything now and/or in the future. I shoot mainly portraits & sports but have done some website work for a couple of companies as well. On the side, I am currently building an actor/model portfolio on a TF* basis. I'm not sure if there is any other info you may require, but what I am looking for is a website with current info and/or list of the types of releases I should have in my possession?<br>

I use photos on my website, in brochures or advertising pieces, and a few have been published in magazines. I know very little about one-time-use and limited use agreements so any help you can provide would be very much appreciated? Also, I live in Canada so naturally, Canadian information would be appreciated for any specific issues.<br>

Regards,<br>

Ken</p>

 

<p>Hey everyone! Thanks for the tips! I think I did okay with the lighting however for anyone planning a shoot like this in the future, I would suggest you give yourself LOTS of time to pose the group! I made the mistake of not ensuring the space was 'prepped' prior to the shoot so in a nutshell, this was all done as I was setting up lights and the gymnastics club was still 'going on' around me while I was getting ready. Because of this I only had about 20 minutes to set up my lights (despite telling them I needed 30-45 minutes!). Needless to say I fell behind from our 7:30pm start time, so I was unable to properly coordinate the set-up of people...BIG MISTAKE! I had to leave it to my contact at the club who "did it last year"...BIG MISTAKE! Note to self, always be in control of your own shoots! First off, he did a quick head count and told me there was only going to be 130 kids so we did the math and figured that we would set up about 21-22 people per row x 6 rows. Great. Only thing is that there ended up being over 200 kids when all was said and done. Therefore, move the lighting back, readjust exposure, keep all the young kids from moving around and getting 'antsy', bring in the next group, and 50 minutes later you're ready to shoot! Needless to say there were a few restless parents and I don't blame them!</p>

<p>Next time, I insist on 45-60 minutes of set-up time. I also get the 'actual' number of people beforehand! I also recommend having someone organizing each row off to the side so they're ready when I call them over. For example, bring in the first 25 tallest people - assuming 25 people per row - and organize them from tallest in the middle to shortest on each side. Next, bring in the 2nd tallest group and do the same thing - and so on, and so on...once all the rows are in place you can fine tune how you want people to stand - i.e. one shoulder in, straight on, etc.<br>

Live and learn but I think I managed okay (with the exception of forgetting my tripod clip that attaches to my camera - ouch!) I just had my camera in for cleaning so the clip was sitting on my desk at home! I had to hand-hold the shot and therefore could not lower my shutter speed enough to bring in some of the background light. Oh well...good 'ol Photoshop will have to help me out a bit there! Final exposure was f/16 @, 100/sec, ISO 400, at about 25mm (50' away or so). Not ideal, but it worked!</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for their help! Bob, you were probably closest to what I actually went through (too bad I didn't read your post until today though!!) but I can definitely use info from the others in the future as well. Hope this post is beneficial to someone else out there!<br>

Cheers!<br>

Ken</p>

 

<p>Hello,<br>

Tonight I am shooting a gymnastics club 'team' photo consisting of 200 athletes, coaches and managers, etc. I will be using a Canon 5D, 2 Elinchrom 500 EL strobes & 2 Elinchrom 600 RX strobes, all with umbrellas.<br>

I have never shot a group this large let alone in a gymnasium and am looking for any tips you can provide me with. I'm planning to shoot somewhere between f/8 and f/11 with even lighting from the umbrellas spread the length of the group at a 45 degree angle down on to them. Hoping to be able to fit them into 3 or 4 rows.</p>

<p>Question 1: Posing - given the size of the group what is the best way to pose them? Tallest to shortest in each row starting from the middle or do I need to spend the time to do this with such a large group? I'm figuring I will, as this photo will be displayed in the lobby of the Gymnastics Club (30" x 22").</p>

<p>Question 2: Lighting - Should I be shooting through the umbrellas? Should they be somewhat 'feathered' or directly on the subjects? How far away would you recommend they be? Do I need to first measure the light in the gym to ensure I 'over-power' it to avoid mixed lighting? Will f/8-f/11 be enough depth of field considering how wide I will need to shoot this group?<br>

Any help would be appreciated...especially if there is anything I may have missed? I'm giving myself 30-45 minutes to 'set-up' the shot.<br>

Regards,<br>

Ken</p>

You may want to Google 'Kathleen Hawkins'. I have found her to be a great resource for marketing material specific to photographers, covering a wide range of areas. She holds seminars, writes books and even has DVD's on the subject.

 

Hope this helps!

That's kind of what I figured I was going to hear...thanks Walt. Somebody out there has got to have a "million-dollar-solution" to the whole copyright issue for digital photographers!

Hello,

 

I was wondering if anyone out there knows how to change the security settings

in Adobe Lightrooms software to not allow someone to print a photo if I send

them a slideshow of images? I can see in the Properties box that the option to

not allow this is there but cannot figure out how to change it. Also, once it's

changed, does it prevent anyone from doing a print-screen?

 

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

Ken

WOW! That's almost as nice as the guy who runs around on the street giving out 'FREE HUGS'! (I think he was on Oprah! LOL). Merry Christmas to you and yours Patrick!

Miklos, I am playing around with this now and although I haven't added Lightroom to the

scenerio just yet, I have figured out how to shoot to a folder on the laptop AND save it to the

card as backup. Simply click on Preferences under EOS Utility and ensure the box that says

"also save on camera's memory card" is checked. Hope that helps.

Thanks everyone...didn't realize it was that easy - FINALLY something that doesn't cost an arm and a leg to do! Just a thought on the speed of the images going to the laptop from camera, but could it have anything to do with the read/write speed of the CF card you are using?

Hello, I'm posting here first because I'm not sure if this is a Canon question,

an Apple question, or other? I have a Canon EOS 30D & 5D and would like the

ability to shoot directly to my MacBook Pro 2.4Ghz laptop. What do I need in

order to do this? I've seen the cost of doing this wirelessly and it's not in

my budget right now. The alternative is obviously cables...but which ones?

Also, is there specific software I need or is it already built into either the

laptop or camera - I'm already gritting my teeth on this answer as I know both

Apple and camera manufacturer's in general will sell EVERYTHING separetely as

an accessory!

 

Please help...

 

Ken

I believe Marathon Press (www.marathonpress.com) will also do this, along with any other marketing/branding type stuff you may need.

Thank-you Steve. You're probably right! I would imagine that no matter which program I chose, there would be likes & dislikes based on what I use it for.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Bill, what printer are you using? Is it an older model then my Epson Stylus 2200? I was convinced that Parallel's is the way to go (for my needs) but now you've put the 'shadow of doubt' in my head again?

Thanks for your feedback. I was leaning toward Parallel's but then read an article saying that it was a bit slow before realizing that the article was back in mid '06 (and I'm not sure which version they were referring to?). Can I assume that Parallels 3 has corrected this problem or are any of you (Dean) experiencing lag times?

Hello everyone,

 

I've just bought a Mac Book Pro laptop and am looking for some feedback as to

which is the best software to use for running both Windows and OS X on the Mac?

Reason being is that I have PC software (i.e. Microsoft Office, among

others)...otherwise, I would be strictly running Mac. I have done some reading

on each of the programs but would prefer first-hand knowledge from actual day-

to-day users.

 

Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

Regards,

Ken

Hello, please forgive me if I'm in the wrong forum as I see this one basically

talks to 'equipment'...I'm really looking for advice on the proper way to save

a file in PhotoShop 7 for a website?

 

I have been hired to shoot clothing for a company's new website and at first

their only stipulation was that the digital photo had to be saved at 100 ppi.

THEY would then take the jpeg and re-size it to 72 ppi with a width of 275

pixels by 430 pixels.

 

Recently, they mentioned that items like blouses & jackets, that have long

sleeves (therefore taking up more space on the sides of the photo) are causing

problems when they go to re-size for their website as the photos are being

stretched one way or the other and are therefore disproportionate (and/or

appear very small)! It has been driving me crazy trying to fix this problem! We

have been trying to figure out the problem between us but it seems that neither

side has the answer. They continually want me to re-shoot those items and I

keep telling them that I will have to charge them for this but unless I know

the 'fix' then there is no use in me doing this as it will waste my time and

their money!

 

Can someone help?? I have a deadline to meet for their upcoming ads!

 

I have two questions that need consideration:

 

1) Is this "my" issue to fix (i.e. in the way I'm shooting it - which is just

pinned flat, portrait (vs. landscape) - do I need to leave more room for

cropping, etc. on the top or sides? Typically, I get in as close as I can to

the sides of the garment and allow for cropping at the top if needed - should I

aim to leave more space on the sides? OR, is this their issue to figure out as

I am only paid to photograph it, not set it up for their website?

 

2) What is the "proper" way to save the file exactly as they need it for the

web? REQUIREMENTS being: 72ppi at 275 pixels by 430 pixels. Can someone provide

a step-by-step instruction as I have never had to do this before. I do

have 'some' clue as to how to do it but fear that I may be checking or

unchecking the "constrain proportions" and "resample image" boxes under either

IMAGE SIZE or CANVAS SIZE when I should / shouldn't be??

 

Any assistance would be very much appreciated!

 

Thank-you,

Ken

Thank-you all for your feedback. It has been a great help. Now that I have done the job and know what's involved I am charging $100 per shot (this was a pre-requisite by the company...to charge by shot) vs. the $35-$50 range I had originally thought - whew!! You saved me!

 

Thank-you once again.

Ken

Hello,

 

I've just been asked to do a product shoot for a retailer in my area and am

not sure what to charge...can someone help? This is my first shoot and it's a

clothing line for their website. They want to pay 'per shot'. I have

researched the net but could not find much on clothing. Other product shots

(i.e. model cars, jewellery, etc) seemed to be in the area of $30-$50 per

photo. However, I don't believe there is nearly the set-up required to shoot

those items vs. clothing that requires pinning, etc. (they specifically

want 'flat', off-model/mannequin shots) so I'm thinking I should be charging

toward the higher end of $30-$50...does this seem reasonable?

 

Any help would be appreciated...including links to websites of known clothing

photographers...thanks, Ken

Thank-you so much! One last question that I forgot to ask...is there a particular focal length / lens that is ideal to use for this type of photography? I'm planning to use a Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8.

Hello,

 

I'm shooting a clothing line (anything from winter coats to blouses, to shoes)

for a company's website and need some advice as to what the best way to go

about 'prepping' the garments in such a way to make them 'pop' a bit? All

required backgrounds should be white. I've heard of 3 possibilities but am not

sure which way to go or in some cases, which type of background to use. Here

are the 3 I've been told about:

 

1. Pin the garments (shoes exempt) to white foamboard and shoot against a wall

with light coming from either one side or from both sides evenly.

 

2. Lay the garments on a white surface (any bright, white surface?) and shoot

down onto them with lighting coming from one side and possibly bouncing some

light back as fill.

 

3. Use fishing line to hang the garments about 5 feet from a white paper

background which is washed out with two lights on either side. Expose for the

garments with a side light (& possibly a fill light on the otherside). My

problem with this one is the weight of a winter coat and/or a pair of jeans

being too much for the 'fishing line' and the fact that if you run the line

through the sleeves it does not look natural.

 

Please help - need to figure this out in the next 24 hours or less! Yikes!

 

Ken